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How to choose a battery?

Mickeyfan0805
Explorer
Explorer
I walked out to the truck the other day and found that the battery was dead. It jumped reasonably well, and I need to get it tested, but I'm guessing it may have run it's course.

That said, I have no idea how to choose a battery for this application. I'm assuming that I don't want just any old battery, but something that will hold up to the added strain of being used as a TV. That said, with the relative cost of batteries, I don't want to spend money unnecessarily.

So, how do I choose a battery? In case it matters, I'm driving a 2006 Suburban 2500 with the 8.1.
21 REPLIES 21

Jarlaxle
Explorer II
Explorer II
Mickeyfan0805 wrote:
I walked out to the truck the other day and found that the battery was dead. It jumped reasonably well, and I need to get it tested, but I'm guessing it may have run it's course.

That said, I have no idea how to choose a battery for this application. I'm assuming that I don't want just any old battery, but something that will hold up to the added strain of being used as a TV. That said, with the relative cost of batteries, I don't want to spend money unnecessarily.

So, how do I choose a battery? In case it matters, I'm driving a 2006 Suburban 2500 with the 8.1.


Hit Wal-Mart and grab the right battery. It's a Johnson Controls and will work fine. Six years & counting for the one in my Caddy.
John and Elizabeth (Liz), with Briza the size XL tabby
St. Bernard Marm, cats Vierna and Maya...RIP. ๐Ÿ˜ž
Current rig:
1992 International Genesis school bus conversion

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Costco find the largest CCA that will fit.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Lowsuv
Explorer
Explorer
AGM batteries offer many advantages over conventional batteries .
AGM do not leak acid . Eliminate possible battery tray corrosion .
AGM batteries recharge faster than conventional .
AGM batteries may be drawn down further than conventional without as much damage to battery life .
AGM batteries have a 40% longer service life .
AGM batteries cost about 60 % more than conventional .
We boondock camp with no solar and no genny and operate from the 2 AGM tow vehicle batteries and the 2 conventional RV batteries simultaneously .
We use 12 foot Heavy Duty jumper cables while camped .
Optima is the most widely used AGM name .
I bought 2 Exide EDGE AGM batteries for $ 140 each in a group 78 size for my duramax at my local Bi-Mart store . I installed them myself .
That was the best priced ( domestic ) AGM that I could find .
Exide makes their own AGM batteries in the USA .
The absolute cheapest AGM batteries come from Asia .
Exide has a website that lists their AGM lineup with sizes .
Exide EDGE is the nomenclature for their AGM .
The Exide Edge batteries have a 4 year full replacement warranty .

Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
I only use CAT batteries.

Why?

Well, like has been said above, there are only a few battery makers in the world.

BUT:

manufactures spec their parts to how they want them made. That means from batteries to bearings CAT puts spec's on the manufacture to manufacture to. Case in point. The Napa battery I replace with a CAT was about 2/3 to 3/4 the weight of the CAT battery even though they were the same size. :E

That extra bracing weighs a lot!

It's not uncommon to get 10 t 15 years out of a CAT battery.
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"

"The best way to get a bad law repealed is to enforce it strictly."- Abraham Lincoln

ib516
Explorer II
Explorer II
How to buy a battery?

LOL, no one has answered your question directly.

Basically, first, you are going to find out what the physical size the battery is. This is generally referred to as the "group". It can be Group 24, 34, 26, etc. That refers to the dimensions of the battery itself, not the electrical power it contains.

Next, you have three choices.

1. Flooded lead/acid - they are cheap, common, and relatively inexpensive. If you choose this one, buy the biggest CCA and RC (Cold Cranking Amps and Reserve Capacity - listed in minutes) you can afford/find.

2. AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat). They claim to last way longer, can be mounted in any orientation, and generally have more power. Optima is a common brand here, but there are others. Look for high CCA and RC.

3. Li-Ion. Litium batteries for automotive applications are just coming out. They are much lighter than 1 or 2, will provide a LOT more power, but are really pricey.

Good luck!
Prev: 2010 Cougar 322QBS (junk)
02 Dodge 2500 4x4 5.9L CTD 3.55
07 Dodge 3500 4x4 SRW Mega 5.9L CTD 3.73
14 Ram 2500 4x4 Crew 6.4L Hemi 4.10
06 Chevy 1500 4x4 E-Cab 3.73 5.3L
07 Dodge 1500 5.7L Hemi 3.55 / 2010 Jayco 17z
All above are sold, no longer own an RV

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
Did you ever read The 12 Volt Side of Life?
Maybe it will help with your decision.

Buy from a local dealer, Sears, Autozone, etc.. Keep it simple, it's a battery, not a transmission.

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
There are basically two or three mass market battery manufacturers. Johnson Controls is one. Between them, they make roughly 95% of all battery brands sold in the US. Buying a name brand may or may not have it's advantages. Price is sure not one of them. Around here we have dedicated battery stores and I have found that the batteries they use, are manufactured by Dekka battery corp and are quite good at a far lower cost per year of warranty than others like Sears Diehard or many others. Do some research as to manufacturers and who makes what. Search for quality and longevity. Personally at least around here Johnson Control batteries are not as good as the Dekka's.

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
Since this is your truck start battery only I would think you would not need to consider any of the RV COACH BATTERY requirements. The purpose of the truck start battery in my setup is to start the truck and run all of the truck electrical requirements. I would install whatever the current truck manufacturer requires and fits the truck battery holder..

I also follow an golden rule to NOT mess with the truck battery system for any of the RV Trailer requirements. The truck start battery is what gets me back home..

Having said all of this and not being familiar with the MOTORHOME type RV units the TRUCK START battery may have additional requirements being used in a self contained motorhome type setup...

My experiences is with a pickup type truck towing a RV Trailer. The RV Trailer has a separate RV battery bank setup just for the RV requirements.

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

jake2250
Explorer
Explorer
I have had good luck with the Optima batteries! Higher CCA. But again thats me.

I have had two red tops in my F350 Diesel, A yellow top in the wife's van, a Yellow top in my last F150, and just put a red top in the wife's Impala.

Red tops in the F350 lasted seven years then i sold it for the F150, yellow top was in good condition when I sold that one five years later.

My trailers have gotten Wal Mart batteries and they are Ok,, five years max,, now running Sam's club 6v GC batts..

Allot of threads on batteries,, read up and you will learn allot about 'em..

Good luck!!

Dick_B
Explorer
Explorer
Next time this happens to me I will go to the local Batteries Plus store. They know batteries better than Bo knows batteries.
Dick_B
2003 SunnyBrook 27FKS
2011 3/4 T Chevrolet Suburban
Equal-i-zer Hitch
One wife, two electric bikes (both Currie Tech Path+ models)

12thgenusa
Explorer
Explorer
The original battery in my truck was on its last legs, so I replaced it a month ago. Lasted 6+ years. After shopping around I bought the exact replacement (made by Exide for Toyota) from the Toyota dealer for $99. Cheaper than anything AutoZone, Walmart or anyone else had. I figure if OEM gets 6 years, why change? Don't overlook your GM dealer.


2007 Tundra DC 4X4 5.7, Alcan custom rear springs, 2009 Cougar 245RKS, 370 watts ET solar, Victron BMV-712, Victron SmartSolar 100/30, 200AH LiP04 bank, ProWatt 2000.

Glacier_D
Explorer II
Explorer II
I don't think the brand matters much anymore since Johnson Controls manufactures batteries for most of the brand names including Interstate, Kirkland and so on. Buy based on price and size.
2011 Dodge Ram 3500 4X4 Crew Cab/LB, Rancho RS9000XL, Stable Loads, Superhitch and FastGuns. 2009 Eagle Cap 1050, Hickory interior with on-board generator, A/C and Honda EU2000

Tankcar
Explorer
Explorer
Hi.

Make it simple. A vehicle batterie is designed to last 4 to 5 life cycle (years), there maybe some sell at a higher price maybe have a 5 or 6 life cycle (years). Batteris manufactures warrantee them for just so long. And you go back, and get a new one its the timing. The batteris will fail at the most inopportune time. I change mine out wien it starts acting uo or 3 to 6 months before warrantee runs out.

Shadow_Catcher
Explorer
Explorer
There are only a few battery manufacturers and a whole lot of names. http://www.batteryfaq.org/ with frequent updates tells you who makes what. One factor not often considered is "reserve capacity" which is as important as CCA in my seldom humble opinion. The battery in our TV a Subaru Outback powers the WAECO 12V refrigerator when we are parked and while the solar panel on the teardrop will back feed the TV I don't like to leave it plugged in (afraid of driving off with out unplugging, haven't done it yet).