Leveling Blocks

[akronharry]

Does anyone use those yellow leveling blocks on their dual wheeled travel trailers or is just buying a 2 x 10 and cutting it up work just as well/ Drawbacks? Thanks in advance.

[akronharry]

Final result: I am using 2 x 10's and the yellow Camco blocks from Walmart. 14 dollars cheaper than a comparable brand at Camping WOrld.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Cacmo-44514-FasTen-Leveling-Blocks-with-T-Handle-2-x-2/51494177

Thanks everyone for their input.

[TxTwoSome]

Let me add my two cents and my experience with the Andersen Levelers.

Andersens should not be trusted as your only chocks on the side they are on either.

I had the Andersen levelers and the chocks they came with on one side regular chocks behind wheels and a pair of fastway chocks between tires on opposite side.

I had the trailer come off the Andersen levelers on the other side.

From then on I added X-Chocks also on the side with the Andersen's.

Just my own experience using them I love them they make it so easy to level. Just as a chock not so much.

[RedRocket204]

SoundGuy wrote:


Sure, on a relatively level campsite ... but imagine that site sloping significantly in the direction of those chocks - without anything else securing the trailer in place there's no way I'd trust those Andersen "chocks" from absolutely preventing the trailer from shifting.

True and one would be foolish to use the Anderson levelers as your only chalks. I have the Anderson levelers and per your scenario, just chalk the opposite side of the trailer from the Anderson levelers... really not a big deal at all.

Functionally, those Anderson levelers are way better to level with than anything else... minus the cost of them. Probably would be easy to make a set of them out of 4x6 posts too.

[SoundGuy]

mitechie wrote:
I use those with the xchocks and after I choke down the purchase price love using them over the years.

Repetitive to be sure but it bears repeating 😛 ... if you're using X-Chocks alone to chock your trailer and prevent it from shifting then you're using them incorrectly, are ignoring the manufacturer's warning to not use them as a "parking brake", and will always be exposing yourself to the possibility that your rig might inadvertently shift.

Norco X-Chock Warning Note - included in every box of X-Chocks sold.



BAL X-Chocks, despite their name, are not intended to actually chock the trailer and prevent it from shifting but rather to reduce camper "wiggle" caused by rotational movement of the tires as you walk around inside the camper.

[mitechie]

They're $$ but I really love these leveling blocks. They've got great handles, they lock together, and they're really solid and thicker.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-Utility-Blocks-Camper-Jack-Pads-Trailer-Levelers-Motorhome-Leveling-Stacker-/282067391544

I use those with the xchocks and after I choke down the purchase price love using them over the years.

[SoundGuy]

avoidcrowds wrote:
Do you try to get your tires level to one another (on the same side of the trailer) as part of your leveling process?

At home I do where I our driveway slopes significantly to the road and the trailer can often be parked for weeks at a time in one location. The system I devised for using the weight of the trailer itself to absolutely prevent the trailer from shifting forward also elevates the leading tires on both sides of the trailer, the net result being that the equalizers between each set of tires sit level just as they would when the trailer is parked on a level ground surface.



For camping this isn't a practical solution and because the trailer is rarely parked in any one location for more than a few days at a time the equalizers do sit off level, one relative to the other, when parked on a site that slopes significantly to the front or to the rear. However, in that case what I am more concerned about is any potential for trailer slippage, ergo the reason I prefer an in-between tire solution between both the low side and high side set of tires. I'm not convinced the Andersen chock which augments the leveler itself will do this when site slope is significant.

As illustrated earlier I'd still be using a set of adjustable BAL Standard Tire Locking Chocks if they would fit my current trailer. However, even when adjusted to their shortest length they don't so I had to devise an alternate method - sets of rubber chocks that are prevented from shifting by hardwood spacers - a system that absolutely does prevent trailer shift no matter the slope or degree of low side elevation I need to have the trailer sitting level front-to-back and side-to-side. This pics shows a triple Lynx elevation but I can go higher if necessary.

[avoidcrowds]

SoundGuy, for the sake of discussion (different than 'argument'):

"without anything else securing the trailer in place there's no way I'd trust those Andersen "chocks" from absolutely preventing the trailer from shifting"

I only have a single-axle trailer, so I can't speak to best-practice for dual-axle trailers. But, I can see your point about not trusting the Andersen leveler, if you don't get the tires level with one another. But, the Andersens won't work to get the tires level with one another, unless you make a ramp for the lower tire to get level with the other tire, before the leveling process begins, correct?

So, my question is, when your trailer is being parked where the ground runs downhill front-to-back (or vice-versa), do you make provisions to have the tires on each side level to one another, either on one side, or on both sides? If so, there would be no downhill tendency for the tires, especially if you use the stabilizers and tongue jack. If not, then being over-zealous with chocking would be called for. But, it seems to me that, if you properly use the stabilizers and tongue jack, there would be less downhill pressure on the tires, so the chocks won't have that much work to do.

Do you try to get your tires level to one another (on the same side of the trailer) as part of your leveling process? Curious, since I don't have dual axles, and it seems to me that one would want to get them level.

[RollandB]

On a pretty level site I just hit auto-level and let it work. On a site that is not very level I use both wood and plastic blocks. Learned the hard way with the plastic blocks to not put them directly on gravel.

[SoundGuy]

wrvond wrote:
I use Anderson levelers. They act as levelers and chocks.

Sure, on a relatively level campsite ... but imagine that site sloping significantly in the direction of those chocks - without anything else securing the trailer in place there's no way I'd trust those Andersen "chocks" from absolutely preventing the trailer from shifting. :E

I personally prefer a set of BAL Standard Tire Locking Chocks to absolutely lock down my trailer ...



Unfortunately my current trailer offers insufficient space between adjacent tires for the BAL chock so I instead use rubber chocks secured in place with hardwood spacers which together also absolutely prevent the trailer from inadvertently shifting regardless of site slope ...



However neither solution could be used in conjunction with the Andersen system since the Andersen occupies space between the tires. Personally I'm much more concerned about absolutely preventing the trailer from shifting than I am about the Andersen's perceived ease of use. Think I'll stick with my proven method of leveling and chocking. 😉

[wrvond]

I use Anderson levelers. They act as levelers and chocks.

[temccarthy1]

We have 2 sets of 10 Lynx leveler blocks! Work great! link together for many different combinations,lightweight, don't rot , and carry them in 2 zip cases that are included. . The only way to go. Weight is always important and these babies are strong and lightweight at same time!

[Sandia_Man]

We have and use both as needed, but primarily level with wood. Either way we wouldn't be without at least one box (we have 2) of lego-style levelers, they have been trip savers on a couple of occasions and none have cracked or failed although some have a few dings here and there.

[JoeTampa]

I used the level blocks but retired them in favor of the Andersen Levelers. The blocks now get used exclusively for the stabilizer jacks and the tongue jack if needed.

[belairbrian]

I've used the same 20 orange blocks for over 10 years and they are still in good shape. Never had an issue getting the tires completely on the blocks.

I once got my truck stuck with the 5er attached. Sunk the front axle in soft dirt/mud. Put five of them behind each of the 4 rear tires and backed right out.