limits of 1999 GMC suburban 1/2 ton

[Hemling]

Hello, I have a 1999 GMC suburban half ton with towing package. This is the old body style with the Vortec 350 / 4L60E. It has factory tow package stuff like trans. cooler and 3.73 gears. I also have LT rated tires on it. I am looking at the Keystone Premier travel trailers. Specifically the larger ones (31BHPR), and put no stock at all in the salesperson´s ¨You CAN tow this¨ assurance. This trailer comes in at 6500 dry, which I know is unrealistic for real-world towing. I am concerned that I will be overloaded before even leaving the driveway. I am not averse to getting the TT I want and ´getting by´ with my half ton for a summer, but I also don´t want to be stupidly unsafe on the roads either. I have a host of questions, as this is my first TT buying experience. First, will my Suburban even be able to tow this trailer? Is it too unreasonable at all? I know that even if it can it will not be really happy about it, and I don´t need to set any speed records or anything, but is this even safe? Secondly, I am unable to finance my TT and a new TV this summer. I´m sure many of you have been in this position before. Should I put off the TT bug to get a decent rig first, or ´get by´ with my half-ton as long as I can and get the TT I want first?!? Thirdly, (finally!), I am fairly handy mechanically, and really like the ´96-´99 Vortec suburbans. If push comes to shove, I will likely look for a 454 3/4 ton suburban in the best condition I can find. Is this SUV too much of a dinosaur for today´s Travel Trailers? Assume I can keep it maintained and on the road and not be a hazard to others. Help!

[BenK]

Either get a smaller trailer or a PUP for now and save up for a higher class TV
to tow that bigger trailer later

This is a very common 'half ton' thread and the OEMs LOVE that. They get to sell
another TV very, very soon...not dis'ing, just the facts of the half ton topic

All of the Ratings is NOT for the good days out there, when just about anything
'can tow it'...all things designed/engineered are for the day Mr Murphy crosses
your path. That is the 'RATING' info the OEMs provided and then factored by either
fine print or bracketed or whatever modifiers they use

Either you have the right sized or not, spot on. No time to go back to the store
for higher class or re-setup.

BenK wrote:
Read this thread, which is the same topic...

Other than power, what is 2500 advantage over 1500?

BenK wrote:
IMHO...all the details in the world won't help those who have no knowledge of how
this stuff works...repeat...it is like trying to explain sex to a virgin...they
have no basis or knowledge (ignorant, not a slight...that is the correct word...look
that word up)

Maybe this might get that message across

To these folks with no knowledge or experience of what this topic/thread is about,
maybe these visuals of sledge hammer heads might get that across

This is also a very, very, very common thread on half tons (AKA lowest
class full sized TV) for both newbies and advisors. Not just here, but
in most all forums I visit. Boy racer forms do understand and know because
they push it and break stuff much more often than here...

Sledge hammers come in various 'ratings', or 'weights', or 'class'. I have a 2 lb,
8 lb, 10 lb and a 16 lb sledge hammers. All but the 2 pounder looks the same, has
about the same head size, etc...just like the OP seeing the 1500/half ton Sub
looking exactly like the 2500-3/4 ton Sub...they both have the same body...except
for the badging

The higher class Sub (2500, or 3/4 ton, or 8.6K GVWR) has a bigger/heavier:

• Frame
• Suspension
• Tranny
• Diff
• Wheels
• Tires
• Drive shaft
• U-Joints
• Brakes
• etc, etc, etc, etc

All stuff not readily seen, nor measured...nor understood their differences
in this matter

Even the software is different...and...get this...many times some of
those attributes are 'de-tuned' for the higher class...even though the
part is the same between the lower class and higher class
















This is all part of the ability to 'manhandle' the setup/situation. Not
a 'can do', but to do it well and for a long time. Like folks thinking
the TV that towed the Space Shuttle is of a higher class...but what
they miss is that the Shuttle was in it's 'DRY' weight condition, that
it was just a few miles and Mr Murphy did not cross it's path so that
it would have needed all of the rating margin it could muster or had
left...or how long could that TV tow that Shuttle...shown in that
video for maybe a few miles...anyone think it could for 100,000 miles? :R

[marcsbigfoot20b]

Your trailer is 6500 dry, so maybe 8000 loaded.

I tow a 7000-7500 lb TT depending on how much I load it. At first I was towing with my 99 Tahoe which is identical to the burb minus the length. The burb will be a bit more stable.

As for power, brakes, transmission, etc.......NO effin way.

The brakes on these trucks are barely adequate for just the truck. Power is ok until you hit an 8% grade for a few miles, the transmission torque converter does not lock up in 2nd gear (which you really need since it will be in 2nd on every decent hill) and the overall feel will be that you need a beefier truck.

I had all these mods going from about 255 hp to 300hp and I had to do custom tuning and add lockup to 2nd gear (tuning on the side of the road with laptop at the base of hill) to make it without blowing something apart.

1999 LS 4X4 four door, 3.73, 4l60e, NVG 246 EAU, 140 amp overdrive alt, Vmax intake spacer, MPFI spider upgrade, 0411 PCM swap, Scorpion 1.6 roller rockers, EFI Live and BB Tune, ported t-body, MagHytec trans pan w/temp ga, MagHytec Diff Cover, wideband O2 ga, added tow haul mode to PCM , K&N drop in, Stainless long tube headers ceramic , custom 3" exh Flowmaster 50 series, 05 E-fans, 180 thermostat, Optima, 20's, Denali 120 mph gauges, slotted wave Rabestos rotors, Hawk pads, Rancho RS5000's, 30F A/C cycle switch, Big 3 wire upgrade, Ultra-Gauge , 7" DVD NAV, prodigy P3 brake ctrlr, rear air bags.

It runs like a real raped ape by itself, but up an 8% grade towing 7K for 10 miles at WOT in second with lockup, bareley holding max speed of 45 mph. Just get a more capable truck.
PS, avg mpg was about 8, without mods maybe 6.5
With the 7.3 its 11.5-12 mpg.

Then when I had saved enough money I moved up to the 7.3 diesel dually and well the previous was just a bad dream.
Pics and specs in my profile sig.

[Vintage465]

I pulled a 25' Nomad bunkhouse trailer with 1999 1/2 ton 4x4 Suburban with the tow package all over the western U.S. and I have to say I am not sure what the whole set up weighed. I would not be surprised if I was overloaded a bit. I would say at a guess that the trailer, loaded was near 6000 pounds. I had good load range E tires on the Burb, 1000 pound equalizer, a sway control and it was a stable set up. But I think it was getting close to the limit of weight. I was able to crest most steep grades at 45 mph. I found with the stock tow package that the cooling for the tranny and engine were very adequate for this set up. Actually didn't replace the tranny til it had 320,000 miles on it. The tranny actually never gave up. We just got nervous about the next long trip. I believe for the trailer you're looking at the 1/2 ton Burb is under sized.

[BenK]

Here is the cut & paste from the 1999 Suburban brochure for Dimensions & Capacities

NOTE that all of these are for a 'curb' Suburban...AKA stripper model
If you weigh more than 150lbs and have more than just the Trailer Option,
the true payload will be less...why it says: "base payload"...based
on curb



Suburban1999 1999Suburban 1999subSpec SuburbanSpec1999

[likestrucks]

I think you should hook it up and take it for a tow and see how the setup feels. Any reputable trailer dealer will allow you to do this, then you can see for your self. You will never know for sure without trying it.

Little things can make a difference. For example, boogie_4wheel had basically the same truck I have now, and it looks like he was pulling the same weight with it. He seems to have been unhappy with the setup. I with the similar truck and similar weighted trailer love my setup. There must be something in the details making the difference even though overall we were running about the same. So yours may tow that weight great like I experience or it may not be all that good. If it isn't that great, could you get by for a year doing it until you can upgrade? I would say yes.

[boogie_4wheel]

I had a '97 GMC K1500 truck (350/60E/3.73). Too much trailer weight. My TH in my sig is about 6k before toys, and can exceed 7k on occasion.

I brought my trailer home with the GMC. Then added a 2nd transmission cooler to deal with temperatures (which it helped), but would be put in a bind if I had a head wind.

If my truck was a 5spd man I probably would have kept it longer. The torque convertor unlocks as you apply more throttle, and that generates more heat. I added a lock-up switch to deal with that, but was still at (slightly above) my truck capacity at 12500 gross.

I got a screaming deal on my trailer as it was the last 2010 on the lot when it was new, and we got it knowing that the trailer was probably too big for the truck.

You are looking at a trailer even heavier than what I have. The burb will get it home, or move it in a pinch, but it will not do well as the primary tow vehicle.

[MegaCab_PL]

That suburban has a tow rating of 6000 if it's 4x4, 6500 if 4x2.

I had a 99 Tahoe with tow package and 3.73 rear and I would not even think about towing a trailer that is 6500 dry.
The 4l60e will be toasted quickly, and that 350 is not as strong as everybody believes. The new half tons could do it, but not the old GMT400.

[kaydeejay]

To the OP, your 'burb may have a 6500# max tow rating, but that is with a 150# driver in it, hence the "max" before the number.
Any more than that and the extra has to be subtracted from your max tow rating.
You will very quickly end up with a net tow rating significantly below 6000#.
A 6500# "dry" trailer will be 6700# or more by the time you add battery and propane.
Load up with clothes, pots & pans, dishes, bedding etc and pretty soon you're looking at 7500#.
Your 'burb won't like it and neither will you.
Go for the 3/4 ton.

[Son_of_Norway]

I have a '99 Suburban like yours and I would not tow a larger trailer with it. Faced with your dilemma I bought a class A instead. I hope you find a good combination.

Miles

[camp-n-family]

I have that exact trailer and pulled it for a year with a newer half ton truck. We're 7800lbs loaded. It was doable but over its payload limits. We now have a 3/4 ton truck. The newer trucks are much more powerful and capable than what you have. You'll be over several ratings and not happy.

[mtofell1]

Too much TT by a good bit IMO. You're at the truck's max with a dry trailer. For comparison sake a buddy has a 2003 Yukon with similar specs as yours and he got a 4000# dry trailer. It's probably 5000 loaded up and with his family in the TV it's a struggle. In a somewhat fortunate event his truck got totaled - no injuries, it doesn't take much to total a 13 year old truck. So, he'll be upgrading soon.

I think you're on a good path looking out for a 3/4 ton Suburban. Ironically, same friend found one used and bought it temporarily until he could get his next vehicle. I think it's early to mid 2000s. He's selling it in the next few weeks but it's out here in Oregon.... not exactly convenient for you. PM me if you have any interest.

[KD4UPL]

How many people and how much stuff will be in the Sub and the trailer? If it's just you and you pack light I'd do it even though you will be technically over the tow rating. If you're talking about putting a family of 4 plus a dog or two and all their stuff in the vehicle then I don't think I'd try it.

[jerem0621]

Your tow rating is 6,500 lbs with the half ton suburban and the 5.7L with the tow package and the 3.73 gears.

Here is the source I got that information from.

1999 Towing Guide Link

I love older vehicles, and I am partial to the older square Suburbans like you have. I nearly bought a cream puff 1999 a few years ago myself.

If you are committed to this trailer the only option I really see is to go with a 3/4 ton Sub with the 454 and get the 10,000 lb rating.

Or... If you are a little flexible on your trailer there are options that would work well within the 6,500 lb tow rating. In particular the Apex 28bh looks like a great match. Here is a Link just as an example.


Thanks!

Jeremiah