Dave H M wrote:
I read thru the thread because having an F250 and having to replace the loose ball joints was a memorable experience. :W
Having done that on a 2 WD, I don't understand the clanging noise. What about the question on 2 or 4 WD? Maybe you have a 4 WD and the U Joint is toast and banging around?
Having done a 2WD, I don't see how one could wear the joints all the way thru without noticing the front wheels leaning in on the top when setting in a parking lot.
Easy way to check the play is to jack the front wheel off the ground (you can use the I Beam for this if jacked close to the wheel). Then grab the top and bottom of the tire and rock it back and forth.
Being an ole motor head, I would be interested in what was making the noise.
Also when I replaced mine, the house brand china type joints were really cheap, while the MOOG joints were expensive. If you are going to keep the truck I would go with Moog since they have grease zerks. If you are gonna dump it, I would go with the el cheapo Chinese ones.
Good luck!
Dave, I have to totally agree with you on the noise.
When driving straight ahead, ball joints are seldom noisy when they are loose, but blown u-joints on 4x4 are. If the ball joints are loose, there is a likelihood that 4x4 u-joints could use service or replacement too. At any rate, it is highly recommended to either regrease them (no OEM zerks) or replace them while the assembly is apart.
Another fellow mentioned that his steering suffered from loose ball joints. This poor steering is usually from loose tie rod ends, a loose idler or a worn steering sector, all of which are usually well worn by the time the ball joints go and can also cause constant tire wear. Loose ball joints by themselves are usually only noticeable at low speeds while turning a corner with a large side stress on the tires, or braking, and moderate wear seldom causes general tire wear or poor steering on the highway.
During straight ahead highway operation the worn loose ball joints self-center (rest) in their worn cup unless they are so bad the cup has wholly disintegrated. Then what is left of the ball can move around in the sheet metal joint housing which is still contained, and limited, by the knuckle/fork bores. As a result, even worn ball joints normally maintain correct wheel alignment throughout their entire service life. In extreme wear cases, a road bump can pop the wheel assembly off, which is dangerous of course, so there is a limit to acceptable wear.
I just had my local Ford dealer recommend a passenger ball joint replacement on my Excursion (same as F-250) because they noted new tires on the truck and were deeply concerned they might wear. There is some joint play, but not a lot and I will replace just that side reasonably soon (passenger side wears more rapidly for some reason). The Ford dealer priced 4 new joints at $1400:E, and they do not do it themselves, but farm it out to a tire shop across the street. No thanks. My Ex steers just fine for now and I'll not pay that much, nor knowingly allow it to be screwed up with the wrong parts or procedure followed by a lot of finger pointing.
I will get free-moving OEM parts when I do it, or have it done.
Here is a pdf dealing with too-tight joints which are not uncommon with Moog, or other precision all-metal joints which includes the majority, no matter price or origin of manufacture (I'll bet 99% are Made in China). I prefer the OEM joints which have a plastic insert that provides some give to the fit, some give to manufacturing tolerances.
If the new assembly is too tight, the Ford truck steers like heck on the highway because the F-250 no longer casters straight ahead on it's own, as I mentioned in my earlier post here.
Wes
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