Need to add water filter - looking for advice

[MartyMoose]

Just picked up our new camper and I need to add a H2o filter as we always drink from our camper.

Our first camper had a whole system filter which was located just after the pump. The previous camper had a small filter with a separate faucet on the kitchen for drinking water.

I like the idea of the whole trailer filter as everything is covered. I never noticed a decrease in pressure but wonder if there is one.

Has anyone added one and where?

Thanks

[brulaz]

myredracer wrote:

...
Then it seems like 0.5 microns is just too small and more likely to plug up quickly.

I'm now thinking of just a sediment whole house filter. Maybe 10 microns, but not sure yet.
...

One way to slow down filter clogging is to gang 2 particulate filters in series. Start with a 5 micron to get out most of the sediment, then follow with a 1 micron.

The problem is that if the campground water is dirty enough to need filtering, it may not be chlorinated very well either. Possibly ...

If anybody does have experience with Chlorine test strips, I too would be interested in hearing about it. In Ontario you can easily smell the chlorine in the Provincial Park water; they really load it up. But I don't think that much is absolutely necessary. We don't smell it in the Florida State Parks, but it's there and ruins tea.

[LarryJM]

myredracer wrote:

Redterpos3 wrote:

RTrider wrote:
This is what I do based upon quite a few years in the property management business... then I will use a Brita or pitcher filter for drinking water, coffee and cooking to take out the free chlorine (for taste) just before consumption.

I feel that taking out the free chlorine before consumption is a bad idea.

--I think I'm following you but these two sentences seem to contradict each other.

I'm finding this stuff interesting but just as I think I'm getting a handle on it, something like this comes along! I think what he is trying to say is that taking out the free chlorine is not a good idea in a distributed water system but at a point of use on your kitchen counter, it's okay. If you take it out in an RV by using a whole house type filter, then you will have un-chlorinated water in your piping system and HW tank and increased the risk of bacteria and micro-organism growth.

I do as RTrider does and for the same reasons. I want all the protection that might be in the water until just before I consume it. We use a brita pitcher for water that is consumed and for making things like coffee. We will use onboard or CG water for cooking as long as it involves boiling or extended heating. We also have a small water bottle that we keep refilled with water from the brita in the bathroom for drinking and rinsing after brushing. Upon dewinterizing I sanitize our system with a hefty dose bleach and then during camping season make sure our water doesn't stay in the tank or lines for more than about a week at a time. I definitely would not fill our onboard water tank via a filter and don't see a need for one for any other use except for human consumption and our alternative plan works for us.

Larry

[mlts22]

I just use a Camco inline filter and call it done. May not be the absolute best, but it will filter out particulates and other gunk before it hits the RV.

[myredracer]

RTrider wrote:

Not sure if I made much sense in my ramblings, but I am quite surprised that there has not been any major water incidents (that I am aware of) in RV parks.

Makes a lot of sense. Thanks for posting that! Puts a new spin on things...

Perhaps you could comment on a few questions I have (apologies if it gets long).

Until last week, I was going to use a combo whole house 10" filter in our TT and I had bought a couple of cartridges. It is 0.5 microns, is a carbon block and sediment filter and removes some micro-organisms and has an excellent flow rate. Based on comments by Jbarca in the other thread referred to above, I have abandoned the idea of a carbon block filter for the whole TT. Then it seems like 0.5 microns is just too small and more likely to plug up quickly.

I'm now thinking of just a sediment whole house filter. Maybe 10 microns, but not sure yet.

There is the question of bacteria growth in some filters depending on the filter media. I'm now leaning towards a sediment filter with a polypropylene core that is bacteriostatic. Problem is, the flow rate isn't that great. (2 gpm at 2 psi differential drop)

I was thinking of maybe trying the spin-down filter I posted above as a pre-filter. Not sure if this would help much or even work at all due to insufficient flow rate to make it work.

Part of what I've been trying to accomplish is better water quality for drinking plus reducing "crud" that may be in the CG supply. In addition to a whole house sediment filter, am thinking of a 5" carbon block filter right under the kitchen sink. The filter I was looking at is 0.5 micron, carbon block and removes some micro-organisms. The problem on this one is that it is not bacteriostatic and it could sit there for a week or two between use. Not keen about the suggestion of freezing it between trips.

The photo below (which I posted in the other thread) is the strainer on the water inlet on our TT after the end of the last season. I really don't want this kind of stuff getting into our system. I have no idea what it is. Too late to culture it in a lab test. Does not look like any kind of sediment and more like some type of growth such as algae or iron bacteria and it looks attached to the screen. In light of what you posted, if this is some type of growth, if a CG supply was adequately chlorinated, would it have prevented it? In other words, for CG systems with poor or low chlorine levels in the water is the stuff on our strainer likely to show up again? This is one reason why I want some decent filtration, but if the chlorine is low is it going to thrive in a sediment filter (even if bacteriostatic) or combo filter as well?

I'm pretty sure the stuff on the strainer came from a CG we were at on the west coast of Washington. It was a large CG, quite spread out and with a swamp/wetland in the middle. The electrical system was in pretty sad shape and I'm guessing the water system was probably similar. As well, it was at the end of the season and not many were still there so as you say, the chlorine may have dissipated.

It sounds as if one is at a busier CG that is on a larger public water system, you are likely okay. But it seems like there are some CGs that could be higher risk.

Are chlorine test strips any good or is there a low cost tester that works okay for use at a CG? Not sure on the difference on free vs. combined and if testing is different.

I drink a lot of tap water when camping and use it in a Sodastream pop machine (diet flavors) and really want to know it's going to be okay. Not sure if I can get DW to ever drink the filtered water though.

I can see it now - having to tow another trailer with a water treatment plant in it. Maybe bottled water is the simpler way to go 😞

Thoughts? TIA

[Redterpos3]

myredracer wrote:

I'm finding this stuff interesting but just as I think I'm getting a handle on it, something like this comes along! I think what he is trying to say is that taking out the free chlorine is not a good idea in a distributed water system but at a point of use on your kitchen counter, it's okay. If you take it out in an RV by using a whole house type filter, then you will have un-chlorinated water in your piping system and HW tank and increased the risk of bacteria and micro-organism growth.

Yeah, that's what I'm understanding also. Let the chlorine from the system get into your pipes to help clean them first, then eliminate when consuming. One problem is if the water you are getting from the park is from a well and not treated at all. IN this case put through filter prior to getting to the rig. in order to keep your rig systems safe.

[myredracer]

Redterpos3 wrote:

RTrider wrote:
This is what I do based upon quite a few years in the property management business... then I will use a Brita or pitcher filter for drinking water, coffee and cooking to take out the free chlorine (for taste) just before consumption.

I feel that taking out the free chlorine before consumption is a bad idea.

--I think I'm following you but these two sentences seem to contradict each other.

I'm finding this stuff interesting but just as I think I'm getting a handle on it, something like this comes along! I think what he is trying to say is that taking out the free chlorine is not a good idea in a distributed water system but at a point of use on your kitchen counter, it's okay. If you take it out in an RV by using a whole house type filter, then you will have un-chlorinated water in your piping system and HW tank and increased the risk of bacteria and micro-organism growth.

[dadmomh]

Our Rockwood came with a WaterPur (TM) inline filter. DH said it was a snap to do the winterizing. We also have a Pur faucet mount filter on the kitchen sink, from Sam's. Love it! 1 package of 4 refills lasts us the entire season. Our HTT had some other generic inline filter and it was always a PITA. The downside of the WaterPur is that the new cartridge is $30 from the mfg, but does a terrific job and we felt it was worth it. Between the 2, we have excellent water pressure and great tasting water.

[Redterpos3]

RTrider wrote:
This is what I do based upon quite a few years in the property management business... then I will use a Brita or pitcher filter for drinking water, coffee and cooking to take out the free chlorine (for taste) just before consumption.

I feel that taking out the free chlorine before consumption is a bad idea.

--I think I'm following you but these two sentences seem to contradict each other. You have brought up something I'd not considered before, and that is having the chlorine from the city water flow through my pipes. Currently I have a dual filter system that I run the park water through prior to entering my trailer. And I am interested in your thoughts on the difficulty of supplying water to a park system, and what is needed to safely do so.

--Sounds like I would need to check the with the park about their water supply either well or city, and if they add chlorine?

[RTrider]

This is what I do based upon quite a few years in the property management business where part of my portfolio had very large complexes layed out over many acres of property. This is similar to many RV parks.

It is very important to verify that the RV park has a chlorine system injection system even if fed from a municipal system, or some other way of insuring chlorine gets to the farthest point in the distribution system. At high season with all the campsites occupied, it is not a problem as the 'free' chlorine gets distributed to the furthest points due to daily water consumption. If it is low season with a lot of empty spots, then I would be very doubtful if the proper amount of chlorine gets distributed to the far end of the RV park.

When in doubt, I use bottled water for all my drinking and cooking, but for washing, toilet and showers I use the park systems as I am not drinking that water. When I am comfortable knowing that there is free chlorine at the tap, then I will use a Brita or pitcher filter for drinking water, coffee and cooking to take out the free chlorine (for taste) just before consumption.

I feel that taking out the free chlorine before consumption is a bad idea. While you will most likely be OK in doing that, it just adds a level of risk I do not want to take.

In summary, I do not like the idea of a whole house filter as a means of providing drinking water as it takes out free chlorine well before consumption and then there is nothing to protect you from the water that may have sat for days in your water lines.

Just in case you do not know, chlorine is deminished while doing its job of eliminating/killing bacteria. So if it is deminished and there are any bacteria left, you are at risk.

This is my humble opinion based on a few close calls we faced in providing water services to large facilities. I really don't think most RV park managers are aware of the dangers of administrating large facility water works, so it is best to be cautious.

Not sure if I made much sense in my ramblings, but I am quite surprised that there has not been any major water incidents (that I am aware of) in RV parks.

[myredracer]

That other thread mentioned above is good info.

I came across this interesting short summary today on RV water treatment and issues.
RV water treatment

I was thinking today about the possibility of reverse osmosis or UV filtration. Most RO systems besides being bulky, produce way too much waste water for RV use and the UV systems mostly treat bacteria and organisms (not sure how effective the small sediment & carbon block filters on them are). Both can be costly.

I saw this Watts ZeroWaste RO unit at HD today:
Watts Zerowaste RO system

This UV unit seems to be about the most compact for an RV and will run on 12VDC:
UV filter

There's an almost bewildering array of filters available that could be used in an RV and some will filter as low as 0.5 and 1 micron along with a long list of various chemicals and contaminants you can filter out. It depends a lot on what your water source quality is like and what you want to remove or reduce from the "raw" water. This site has a listing of many common ones in 5" and 10" filters. Different filter brands & types

I was also looking at a "spin-down" sediment filter like this Rusco item as a pre-filter to a sediment cartridge filter:
spin down sediment filter A drawback is that it needs min. 1 gpm to work.

The Douton ceramic filter is another option to look into and I know nothing about them. Doulton ceramic filter

Too many options... (sigh)

I'm currently trying to find out how good bulk bottled water is that you get from grocery stores. DW gets 5 gallon bottles refilled for our water cooler and won't drink anything else. The machine at our local store has a machine that fills the bottles at something like 5 gpm off city water so I am wondering if it does very good filtration at all.

[2012Coleman]

I bought an inline filter and pressure regulator in the camping section at Walmart. No need to install anything under the sink. Also bought a 90 degree elbow for the water connection. So the elbow screws into the TT city water connection, the regulator screws into the elbow, a short hose connects to that and then the filter so the filter is not hanging, then the filter is connected to the hose which is connected to the CG spiket. Arrows on the filter make it dummy proof - good for me! Easy and your done. Coffee hasn't tasted better.

[wmoses]

Good call. 🙂

[beemerphile1]

Rather than hashing it over again, maybe this thread will help;
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27477373.cfm

[brulaz]

edatlanta wrote:
I got my filter from Here.

It has worked well for over 3 years of full time use. I also order replacement filters from this site as well.

That's a good site. We have a standard 10" canister with something like their RV-SED5 sediment cartridge, I think. Or maybe the 1 micron version, not sure.