New F150 - Brake Controller Install

[CptSydor]

Well I just pulled the pin on a new F150 tonight. Supercab 4x4 5.0L V8 with 3.55. 7800lbs tow, payload of ~1850 lbs. 🙂

First trip will be in a couple weeks. 4000 miles round trip to Colorado. Only pulling my small Dutchman t@da (2200 lbs dry). Will be upgrading next spring to a larger TT.

Truck has a tow package, but needs a brake controller. From everything I've been reading/watching even before the purchase, this should be a simple plug and play. Buy a controller, should have a factory adapter, find the connection under the dash, snap, crackle, pop, screw and I'm ready to go.

Just here to make sure I'm not under estimating anything.

[rightyouareken]

One big advantage to the OEM brake controller is that it will modulate the trailer brakes when the truck brakes trip the ABS. Meaning if you are in a panic situation you're less likely to jack knife the trailer due to locking up it's brakes.

As mentioned by the previous poster, and according to my owners manual, it also reduces the trailer brake power below 11 MPH to prevent jerky stops at low speed, which seems to work well. It also has some type of what I'll call emergency sway control that works with the vehicles stability control. It's not a replacement for a sway control hitch by any means, but might keep you out of a ditch.

[Hybridhunter]

rcmiller32 wrote:
The correct tow package includes the brake controller. The basic tow package gives the class IV hitch, 7 pin connector, upgraded radiator, aux tranny cooler and select shift auto transmission. Not much different than the Chevy at work, still had to add the controller and tow mirrors even with tow package.

Max tow included every thing including the big tow mirrors and brake controller.

The GM's don't have select shift, so that is a big deal, as it can be driven manually, which is pretty sweet for holding a gear. Max tow is nowhere near necessary for heavy towing, and it has compromised (not mileage friendly), rear axle ratio required.

And the OEM controller is so much better than the prodigy, it's not in the same league. Especially in difficult situations. I had a P2, I swapped it out for an OEM one, what a difference! It is so much smoother. My trailer requires very high gain, which results in choppiness, especially at low speeds.

The OEM TBC has 3 features exclusive to itself
1) Reduced output at low speeds
2) Pedal pressure / brake system application pressure as opposed to inertial sensing. (Predictive vs Reactive)
3) Trailer sway control is integrated with the controller

[rcmiller32]

The correct tow package includes the brake controller. The basic tow package gives the class IV hitch, 7 pin connector, upgraded radiator, aux tranny cooler and select shift auto transmission. Not much different than the Chevy at work, still had to add the controller and tow mirrors even with tow package.

Max tow included every thing including the big tow mirrors and brake controller.

[MitchF150]

Got my Max Tow F150 for $33k... 🙂 I see you are using that funny looking money from up North.. 😉 So, maybe that's the difference?

Gotta say I had the old P2 in my 97 F150 and it was a damn good controller..

Got the OEM controller in the 13 and set the gain to your liking and it's smooth as glass when you don't need much brake, but it'll haul you down when you do need a lot of brake!

Good luck with the new ride!

Mitch

[Lynnmor]

It is sure good to see that many have come to the realization that the plug and pray aftermarket controllers are not as good as the factory units.

[CptSydor]

Perrysburg Dodgeboy wrote:
Personally if it were me I would tell the dealership that I will pay for the part but not the labor. Why would a dealership order a truck with a tow package and not order the brake controller :h. IMHO it is to rip off the customer by charging him labor to install something that should have been installed at the factory :M!

Congrats on the truck at any rate!

Don

I completely agree. I was rather shocked when I was looking around at trucks, all with tow packages, virtually none with the brake controller unless it was a 50K+ truck.

The part is listed as $300 accessory, that includes part plus installation. The better controllers are $150+. Saves me running around, finding one and installing it. So the extra is my convenience tax unfortunately.

[Teamfour]

While I agree that the OEM controller is the best (I have had several as well as aftermarket), check with your dealer on how much they will charge to activate the controller. I have seen a low price of $50 all the way up to $125!

[Mvander]

Wise choice going for the oem controller. You will not know its there and the output/gain displays in the evic.

[Perrysburg_Dodg]

Personally if it were me I would tell the dealership that I will pay for the part but not the labor. Why would a dealership order a truck with a tow package and not order the brake controller :h. IMHO it is to rip off the customer by charging him labor to install something that should have been installed at the factory :M!

Congrats on the truck at any rate!

Don

[CptSydor]

Thanks for the comments. Just called and had them include the OEM brake controller. A little more expensive, but saves me the hassle and sounds like a better product.

[Fordlover]

APT wrote:
Yes, I highly recommend the OEM integrated brake controller. Last time I checked for 2011 models it was comparable in cost to the Prodigy P3 at about $125. It will need to be enabled via a dealer service tool, though.

Agreed, the OEM controller seems to outperform even the highest end aftermarket controllers. I'd definitely go for it if I didn't own a brake controller yet.

[APT]

Yes, I highly recommend the OEM integrated brake controller. Last time I checked for 2011 models it was comparable in cost to the Prodigy P3 at about $125. It will need to be enabled via a dealer service tool, though.

[Teamfour]

Yep, get a Prodigy, adapter for the factory plug and you are good to go. I have done this a couple of times on Ford trucks.

[rcmiller32]

If you install the Ford Factory controller you will need to have the dealership activate it for you via the OBD port and their computer. If you go with the aftermarket just attach it to the harness and plug it in. That's the way I went. Now I will be pulling it from the truck and installing it in the motorhome.