rhagfo wrote:
Not a built in quality sensor, computer uses an algorithm to figure oil life. If you really want to know how your oil is doing have it analyzed.
I did. It is good.
Must be some algorithm when driving with 6000lb, 12' + tall camper extends oil life from 5k to 8k miles.
Even my 2017 Ford manual says to make 5000 miles intervals, the truck has build-in oil quality sensor who will tell you when to change the oil.
Also ScanGauge has X-gauge who will tell you how much of oil life you have remaining.
Bottom line I changed the oil before going to Alaska and after 8000 miles the dashboard told me to change the oil 200 miles from home.
Than with Fumoto valve and truck clearance allowing me to crawl under - oil change is not biggie. Only oil filter removal is messy job.
My 2017 diesel is DPF and DEF equipped, what makes demand for high-quality oils.
I am buying synthetic blend at Walmart for $43 for 12 quarts
Also ScanGauge has X-gauge who will tell you how much of oil life you have remaining.
Bottom line I changed the oil before going to Alaska and after 8000 miles the dashboard told me to change the oil 200 miles from home.
Than with Fumoto valve and truck clearance allowing me to crawl under - oil change is not biggie. Only oil filter removal is messy job.
My 2017 diesel is DPF and DEF equipped, what makes demand for high-quality oils.
I am buying synthetic blend at Walmart for $43 for 12 quarts
In October last year, I mentioned that I had a Stahlbus brand oil drain valve for my truck, and would install it at the next oil change. It’s that time, so I thought I’d update this with how it went.
Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve Plug
Rather than draining the oil, then installing the new valve and waiting for the next oil change to actually use it, I installed it WITHOUT draining the oil first :E
All I can say is, you gotta be quick doing it that way unless you like wearing a bunch of dirty oil. I only lost about a half-pint. :C
I installed the new valve, then let it sit for a few days with a sheet of cardboard under it to make sure it wasn’t going to drip. I changed the oil today, and was very pleased with how much cleaner the job is. Oil pans that have the drain on the side can be a bit messy when you first pull the plug, especially when there’s 13+ quarts wanting to come out. I always seem to misjudge where to put the pan, and the oil stream ends up overshooting it.
This is the new drain valve installed in the pan, with the cap screwed on. The cap is a secondary seal in case the internal check valve fails.
The cap is removed, showing the o-ring seal for the cap.
The check valve is opened by inserting the hose assembly into the valve and giving it a half-turn.
The oil is draining! It drains slower through the hose, but that’s probably a good thing.
If you like draining into empty oil jugs, you can stop the flow by giving the hose a twist and pull, and the valve will close and doesn’t leak. I drain into a pan that’s big enough to hold all 13 qts, but I tested it’s stop/start abilities anyway.
You can either keep the hose with you in case you need an oil change on the road, or the valve can be removed from the pan just like a drain plug. It uses a replaceable crush washer as a seal.
:):)
Stahlbus Oil Drain Valve Plug
Rather than draining the oil, then installing the new valve and waiting for the next oil change to actually use it, I installed it WITHOUT draining the oil first :E
All I can say is, you gotta be quick doing it that way unless you like wearing a bunch of dirty oil. I only lost about a half-pint. :C
I installed the new valve, then let it sit for a few days with a sheet of cardboard under it to make sure it wasn’t going to drip. I changed the oil today, and was very pleased with how much cleaner the job is. Oil pans that have the drain on the side can be a bit messy when you first pull the plug, especially when there’s 13+ quarts wanting to come out. I always seem to misjudge where to put the pan, and the oil stream ends up overshooting it.
This is the new drain valve installed in the pan, with the cap screwed on. The cap is a secondary seal in case the internal check valve fails.
The cap is removed, showing the o-ring seal for the cap.
The check valve is opened by inserting the hose assembly into the valve and giving it a half-turn.
The oil is draining! It drains slower through the hose, but that’s probably a good thing.
If you like draining into empty oil jugs, you can stop the flow by giving the hose a twist and pull, and the valve will close and doesn’t leak. I drain into a pan that’s big enough to hold all 13 qts, but I tested it’s stop/start abilities anyway.
You can either keep the hose with you in case you need an oil change on the road, or the valve can be removed from the pan just like a drain plug. It uses a replaceable crush washer as a seal.
:):)
Not changing the oil is easy to notice, so not too many crooks will go that far.
But quite often lazy "mechanics" don't want to get their arms dirty on filter replacement, or don't have 1 in stock, so they wipe the filter clean and call it a day.
Oil trapped in big filter will change new oil color right away.
But quite often lazy "mechanics" don't want to get their arms dirty on filter replacement, or don't have 1 in stock, so they wipe the filter clean and call it a day.
Oil trapped in big filter will change new oil color right away.
