SHANK question

[HawkTX]

I have a 23ft trailer and I recently went from a GMC Yukon to a Ford F150/Raptor. The shank and old hitch works fine after some adjustments, but I noticed today I can't open the tailgate without it hitting my tongue jack. The fix would be to go from a 12 inch shank to a 18 inch shank. Not a huge difference, but was curious if others have done this and does it compromise ride, etc.? I've always had motorhomes and 5th wheels so I'm sorry for the NEWB question and thanks in advance for your thoughts. Here is a picture of it with the 12 inch and it rides great. Hate to compromise that, but I would like to be able to open the tailgate while hooked up.

[HawkTX]

lap527 wrote:
I am just glad I re-read the topic...skank was my first read. LOL!

LOL!!!!!

[lap527]

I am just glad I re-read the topic...skank was my first read. LOL!

[Boomerweps]

I'm hesitant to add a longer lever connecting the TV to the TT.

There is a company making quick disconnect brackets for tongue jacks. I have the tailgate to jack interference. I'd strongly consider one if I camped more. Of course you'd have to add electrical quick disconnects for a power jack.
Www.jack-E-up.com

[TomG2]

Basic physics will demonstrate that the farther the load is from the rear axle, the less desirable it is. One reason that fifth wheel trailers tow so well is that the "tongue weight" is right over the axle. Reese says to reduce ratings by fifty percent when using a eight inch extension. I relocated the jack four inches rearward in order to open the tailgate and not affect the leverage that the tongue weight has on the tow vehicle. Six inches may not seem like much, but to understand the forces involved,imagine moving it back six feet.

[Hannibal]

I wish I could find a short drawbar like I had on a Quality S trunnion style WDH many years ago. The welded on head was right up against the receiver. It towed great with no sway control. Just the same, if you’re using a good hitch like a Reese dual cam or Equalizer 4 point, a longer shank shouldn’t be a problem.

[Huntindog]

beemerphile1 wrote:
Simple fix, turn the jack head 90 degrees.

Maybe.

It depends where the interference is, and what jack he has.
In my case, I had an Atwood, it has a top mounted motor, so it doesn't cause clearance issues. The tailgate would hit the jack shaft. The only solution to that is a longer drawbar.

[beemerphile1]

Simple fix, turn the jack head 90 degrees.

[Huntindog]

Mickeyfan0805 wrote:
This likely has a lot to do with tongue weight. For a lighter tongue, likely not an issue - try it and see how it goes. For a heavier tongue, you are increasing the torsion on the hitch which would lessen the actual weight the tongue could safely carry. I'm not an engineer, so I would not be able to try to quantify the difference, but that would be my consideration.

This was part of our discussion some years ago. We had our resident engineer in on it, and some input from hitch manufacturers.
The consensus was it isn't an issue

[Mickeyfan0805]

This likely has a lot to do with tongue weight. For a lighter tongue, likely not an issue - try it and see how it goes. For a heavier tongue, you are increasing the torsion on the hitch which would lessen the actual weight the tongue could safely carry. I'm not an engineer, so I would not be able to try to quantify the difference, but that would be my consideration.

[ScottG]

I went to a slightly longer draw bar without any issues at all.

[Lynnmor]

No image.

Could you turn the jack 90 degrees to clear the tailgate?

[Huntindog]

I went from a 12 to a 18 for the same reason you are thinking of.

The ride got kind of bumpy when lightly loaded. On heavily loaded trips it was fine. Weh had a bitg debate about this here some years back, and the upshot of it was that a longer bar lengthens the leverage point of the bars, making them act stronger. I was going to see if I could adjust the bumpy ride out, but never got around to it (it really wasn't that bad), and got a new truck. When I set it up on the new truck, no bumpy ride. So I believe that it can be readjusted.

[Grit_dog]

Obviously it puts a greater bending moment on the back of the truck (like more weight) which will be more not able with the very compliant suspension of the Raptor.
Not a lot though, guessing the equivalent of 100lbs more at the most.
If you’re running a wdh and notice a difference you can crank up the wdh a bit more.
Either way it is not going to be a major difference.

[troubledwaters]

I put a longer shank on my F150 to clear the tailgate; there is no difference in before an after. However, I don't know for sure, but it might be only 3" longer.

[CaLBaR]

HawkTX wrote:
I have a 23ft trailer and I recently went from a GMC Yukon to a Ford F150/Raptor. The shank and old hitch works fine after some adjustments, but I noticed today I can't open the tailgate without it hitting my tongue jack. The fix would be to go from a 12 inch shank to a 18 inch shank. Not a huge difference, but was curious if others have done this and does it compromise ride, etc.? I've always had motorhomes and 5th wheels so I'm sorry for the NEWB question and thanks in advance for your thoughts. Here is a picture of it with the 12 inch and it rides great. Hate to compromise that, but I would like to be able to open the tailgate while hooked up.

You could try to go to an 18" shank so you can open the tailgate. It might not tow as nice because now the trailer is another 6" further from the truck's rear axle.

I have always had that problem too so I just lived with it and it never bothered me. I always wanted to get the trailer tongue as close to the rear axle as possible for towing stability.

Try it if it doesn't tow as nice you will only be out the price of the shank.

Rob