So lets say you need to bring one side up 3-4 inches

[DinTulsa]

Just picked up our first TT. We will mostly be rving on sites that are level concrete pads that won't require much more that a 1" block on the side with 3 slides to help level it out. But lets say we find ourselves in a spot that is significantly lower on one side. How do you bring the trailer up if you have a series of 1 foot blocks, or plastic pads, without causing the top blocks to kick out as you try to climb up them. I have considered carrying 1 ft. sections of 1x8, 2x8 and if I needed more than a couple of inches grab a set of Anderson levelers for up to 4 inches.

[Need-A-Vacation]

I carry a couple 2x10's and a couple 2x12's 4-5' long, with the ends cut at 45*. Plus a couple shorter boards as well. I do need to replace some boards next season due to age and cracking, and when I do so I will probably go with all 2x10's as they are plenty wide for a 225 tire. I have used 2x8's before, but they don't have much margin if the board is placed at a slight angle (wife places the board(s) once I move the trailer forward/back after checking site for level). I keep all of the tire on the board without hanging over at all.

I do need to start carrying some 1/2" treated plywood for under the high side as some sites the ground is soft enough and after the trailer sits the high side has become the low side. Seems to happen more so on our new trailer when the double slide side has started out as the high side.

If your tv is a p/u, just cut the boards so they will fit width wise at the tailgate. Stand on edge to minimize the space taken. Easy to grab (if you can lower the tailgate) once you arrive at the cg.

[mosseater]

Lynx blocks are the only way to go, IMO. I have three sets. Build your ramp, drive up. Done!If you find them wanting to skid around, use strips of rubber roofing to help hold them in place. I really have very little issue using the Lynx blocks in 7 years of camping.

[Community Alumni]

I made a set of these and use them exclusively. The rubber on rubber blocks tend to stick to each other. Each of my pads are 12"x12". I've driven up on 4 of them, 3" of lift, without any slippage. But it's easier to drive up on the taller stacks if you place a couple in front to make kind of a ramp.

Link

[CavemanCharlie]

I used to use scrap wood blocks and they work fine. Then I got a set of Lynx Levelers given to me and I have to say I really like them.

Most parks around here will not let you dig holes. I've done it but, you are not suppose to. I'm sure to fill the holes back in and pack back down the ground when I leave

[LIKE2BUILD]

Dcarner wrote:
But lets say we find ourselves in a spot that is significantly lower on one side. How do you bring the trailer up.....

I have 5 sets of Lynx Levelers (3 were given to me) and I love them for this very thing. The interlocking blocks fit snug together and make it easy to form a ramp to get the wheels up on them. I know they're a bit pricey, but I've had mine for over 10 years and they are still in good shape.

KJ

[wrvond]

I use the Anderson levels even if it is an inch or so. They are easier to use than any wood leveler ever designed, and they function as a wheel chock as well.
I've been using this set for about four years with no issue.

[SoundGuy]

nineoaks2004 wrote:
You did not say if the TT is single or double axle, mine is single and I use a BAL Leveler, this makes it easy, just slide under the low side tire and use the wrench to move the TT to the level position

The OP indicated quite clearly in his post that he has a trailer with triple slides so you can bet it's not a single axle. :R

Of course wood works, especially if it's pinned to prevent slippage, but when we moved up to dual axles years ago I quickly also switched to using Lynx Levelers - light weight, easy to handle, and easy to store. However, after a few uses I discovered they can shift apart when I'm pulling up on to one layer as the individual Lynx are not interconnected and they can also crack if sitting on a rough ground surface such as crusher stone. To solve both these issues and make handling / storage even easier I devised a method of affixing a base layer of Lynx to a plywood base. I've been using this Wood / Lynx system for years now, modifying and improving with each different trailer we've owned. Works like a charm in every situation as I can level to near "perfect" every time regardless of site slope. :B

Wood / Lynx Leveling System (10 pics)

[hohenwald48]

Easiest thing I've found. You can get them in two sizes and there is a video to show how to trim them if your axles are close together.



https://jet.com/product/detail/a60b8764d47148d8ac351a8d99ef112a?jcmp=pla:ggl:brands_vehicles_parts_a3:vehicles_parts_vehicle_parts_accessories_a3_other:na:na:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&k_clickid=ec438c1b-ab0f-4079-8e1d-2ddca4b81244&gclid=CMW475Tw78kCFVE7gQodz7ICIA

[Huntindog]

When I first started in TTs, I used blocks... What a pain.
I then saw some old timers digging holes to drop the high side tires into... I tried it.... I have never used blocks since.

Digging holes only requires a shovel, which is a real handy thing to have in camp anyways.
I have gotten really good at judging how deep the holes need to be.

There are many advantages to using the hole method.
1. No need to carry blocks.
2. The door and steps sit lower.
3. The TT cannot fall out of a hole, like it can fall off of blocks.
4.The TT is inherently more stable as gravity uses the weight of the TT to stay centered in the holes... No need for wheel chocks.
5. Since the TT is more stable and sitting lower, high winds are much more tolerable.

Since I am now an oldtimer, I figure it is up to me to pass this knowledge along as it was to me many years ago.

To do this some bubble levels on the front and rear of the TT are nice to have... Get the kind that have a graduated scale on them showing aproximantly hwo many inches out of level it is.. This will give you an idea of how deep a hole to dig.
Dig the hole either right in front or right behind the tires.depending on what makes sense for the situation. Then slowly ease the rig into them. I have DW do it while I watch. If I need to make an adjustment, she pulls it out, and we try again... It sounds hard, but it is amazing how often I get it on the first shot. Once all is well, with the rig in the hole, put the TV in neutral with the brakes off and let gravity center it in the hole. Done deal.

As an aside, the same technique can be used to lower the rear of the TV, if the sitation calls for it.

Naturally campgrounds likely have rules against this, but then if they are charging, then they should be providing level pads as standard accomodations.

I always boondock, so no worries for me. When I break camp, if I have dug deep holes I fill them in. It just takes a minute to shove the dirt back into them. Shallow holes I generally leave. I often reuse them the next time we are there... And I have often used other peoples old holes as well.

[WyoTraveler]

When I had a TT or my 5ver I carried a 6" level. I would lay the level inside the door. Lift the low end of the level up until it is level, a guesstimate. Multiply that amount by 16 since RVs are approx 8' wide. It gave me an amount that was real vlose on the first try.

[nineoaks2004]

You did not say if the TT is single or double axle, mine is single and I use a BAL Leveler, this makes it easy, just slide under the low side tire and use the wrench to move the TT to the level position

[Golden_HVAC]

It would be rare to find a campground sloping so much to one side that the 8 foot long axle needs to be propped up more than about 3". But I see from the pictures above that it can happen.

Most of the time I find that I need to raise the front or rear of my motorhome by several inches, while side to side is normally within a couple of inches of being level. This is because my wheelbase is 190" (a little over 15 feet" while the distance between the tires is a little under 8 feet.

I was camped next to a person in a fifth wheel at a level parking lot in Huntington Beach CA. IT was sloped only enough to prevent water from puddling on the paved surface. They felt the need to put 3/4" plywood under one of the front jacks in a attempt to 'level' it. Really you do not need to be that level. The refrigerator needs to be somewhat level for ammonia water mixture to return to the boiler, but does not need to be 'exact'. Your bed needs to be somewhat level, or at least the headboard side higher than the foot side to sleep well. Other than that, you are level enough. Walking around inside the 10,000 pound vehicle on springs while shifting 400 pounds of passengers from the dining table to say the other side of the space will cause it to sway a tiny amount anyway.

Good luck,

Fred.

[Chuck_thehammer]

I have (2) 2x8 by 5 feet and (2) 2x8 by 4 foot.. cover most issues

plus I have a 12 ton bottle jack, with a metal plate for between frame and jack. for flats and help if necessary for leveling...

[LinkedXJ]

I wish our last seasonal spot only had a 3-4" difference side to side...

[JIMNLIN]

Maybe the mod can resize your picture so its not necessary to scroll back and forth to read your thread.

Anyhow were old time campers and camped when most campgrounds were just a dirt road in and a few picnic tables scattered around.
Sometimes it was necessary to dig one side down and ramp up the other (truck and trailer).

We still sometimes camp in remote areas or older campgrounds that requires maybe 6"-8" of wood boards to get level. I have several short 2"x8"x12" long or 3' long. I also use 4"x7"x 36" long cedar ramps with one end angled with a chainsaw.
Its nice to camp in some of the newer campgrounds or RV parks with a concrete or gravel pad to sit up on that a 2x will get me leveled.