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Stableload alternative

Jack_Spratt
Explorer
Explorer
The other day someone posted pictures of a round rubber disc with a stud in the center to be used as an alternative to a lower stableload.
Unfortunately I forgot to bookmark it, and can not locate the discussion.
Thanks in advance if you can point me to the subject.
Leprechaun 260 DSF
2017 Big Horn FL3750

'10 Yellow Lab to keep us on our toes.
42 REPLIES 42

The_Mad_Norsky
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1:

regarding sway bars on DRW's.

Have hauled my SnowRiver with two different trucks now, first the 2011 Ford F350 dually with factory sway bar, and now on my 2014 Ram dually, no rear sway bar.

Mind you, putting a rear sway bar on the Ram is on my bucket list. But to date, I've really not noticed that big a difference in handling between the two trucks.

And, of course, should add that the factory Ford sway bar is rather small when compared to what is available after-market.
The Mad Norsky, Doll, Logan and Rocky
2014 Ram 3500 w/ Cummins/Aisin
2019 Northern Lite 10-2 EX CD LE Wet Bath
RV'ing since 1991

I took the road less traveled .....Now I'm Lost!

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Terrick down Under, Thanks. I am considering a similar setup on my DRW. I am not clear on the "2 x 75 litre propane tanks that just fit between the rails , rear of axle and the hitch which weigh about the same as 4 x steel rims and tyres. "

Zulu, not sure what you are running due to no info in your profile or signature. If you are SRW, and do not have a sway bar, I can say with confidence that a rear sway bar will be a seat of the pants obvious difference in controlling sway. I do not have a sway bar on my DRW. Some folks say not needed on a DRW, with overload spring engagement modifications. I hope they are correct, but I will know in the near future. I am in the process of setting the DRW up for my TC.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

zulu52
Explorer
Explorer
jimh425 wrote:
zulu52 wrote:
My TC sways a lot because of the top heavy load. Would this fix that problem?

Do I need hockey pucks?
Zulu


Maybe just less air if you run air bags.


No air bags.
Zulu

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
zulu52 wrote:
My TC sways a lot because of the top heavy load. Would this fix that problem?

Do I need hockey pucks?
Zulu


Maybe just less air if you run air bags.

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member

zulu52
Explorer
Explorer
My TC sways a lot because of the top heavy load. Would this fix that problem?

Do I need hockey pucks?
Zulu

Terrick_down_Un
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1, yes I tend to leave them in a lot. Just lazy I expect. My truck has a couple of extras...2 x 75 litre propane tanks that just fit between the rails , rear of axle and the hitch which weigh about the same as 4 x steel rims and tyres. With the 6 inch lowering and that weight it sits real low. The bumps stop rubbers tend to lift the rear about 2 1/2", and make the ride a little stiffer ( about 10%). It is still very comfortable to drive even on dirt roads. I am lucky enough to have a 2 post hoist that I just lift under the hitch until the rear tires are just about to leave the ground, undo the retaining nuts and the stops just twist sideways and out. This take me about 10 minutes maximum to do by myself.
This getting to load, my second time, sloping ground, very nervous.

This is Easter before last, heading off to the Victorian high country for 10 days.

When the TC is on and loaded, the upper helper sits about 1/2" off its stop, and the ride is very nice.
Although I have been thinking about a rear sway bar lately for windy winter driving thru the mountains here.
Sorry rambling, hope this helps

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Terrick down Under, do you leave them installed with no load in the bed? If so, does it greatly effect the ride?

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Oldtymeflyr
Explorer
Explorer
HJGyswyt--- Looks very good. Thanks for the tip, a good one.

Rick

Terrick_down_Un
Explorer
Explorer
There are lots of ideas here.
This is what I do. It is simply 4 "bump stop rubbers" from the earth moving supply outlet. They have a 3/8" stud and nut already fitted. I simply lift the pickup to full suspension travel and slip them into the holes at the front and rear of both helper springs. When not required I simply take them out.
Oh yeah... and they are quiet!!!

Yes, as you can see I have lowered my truck 6 inches, so this was a necessity for me, our Summerwind is 2760# empty. I have a small set of air bags but don't really need them. They mainly get used getting in and out of steep entries and for hitching up the trailer.

Fitzbev
Explorer
Explorer
Perhaps going one inch on the puck would be adaquate.
Best Regards,
Fitz


2015 F-250 PSD, Platinum, Load Lifter 5000 Ultimate Air Bags, Helwig Sway Bar, 2" Fender Flares, Front Hitch, Diamond Back Bed Cover, 19.5 Load "E" Tires
2016 Northern Lite 811 QSE.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks RWDIII.


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Additional tough, when I bought my heavy camper with F250 I was trying to make it working for some time.
Air bags would level the truck, but would not take 20% overload from rear tires.
I fabricated spare wheel bracket for my front bumper. Per my calculation moving the spare from behind rear axle to front bumper takes in the range of 3-400 lb from the rear axle.
Sure would make big difference in pulling the spare in case of flat rear.

RWDIII
Explorer
Explorer
RWDIII wrote:
I have what I call half stableloads on the back part of the rear springs
made with the round spacer that came with the work rites.
they cause both ends of the overload to contact the springs,but don't lift the truck.I will take a pic if anyone is interested.Since I had them in the garage the cost was 2 bolts and two muffler clamps,about $10 .


OLD 2006 F150 4wd 7200gvw,Lt275-65-18,Scan Guage,Garmin,flowmaster,load levelers,Firestone work rites Bronco 800

NEW 2015 F250 Scab 4wd 10000 gvw, 6.2 Scan guage,Garmin,work rites,3200 lb load,1800lb Palomino Backpack SS1200

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Frames are build strong to take the load at any point.
Springs are not design to keep bending past certain point.
Ans yes, I do hear about replacing leaf springs on trucks from time to time.
But breaking is my secondary concern, as this would be obvious.
I am thinking about the stops bottoming the suspension before factory rubber stops.
This can't be good.

Farmerjon
Explorer
Explorer
On the 2in bloacks I have used I am using the same cushion as factory.

Kayteg1 said "pushing the spring 2" before designated point can open whole can of warms. Would that spring bend past breaking point at some time?"
No I don't think so and I've not heard of any problems with that! Have you?? Share that information.
2015 F350 Lariat CC LB 4x4 DRW 6.7, 6sp auto, 3.73
2000 F350 lariat SC LB 4x4 DRW 7.3, 6sp manual 3.73
1987 F250 Lariat SC/LB 4x4 SRW 460 4sp stick 4.10
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