Sway Control HELP........

[kbravo1974]

I have a new 2014 Zinger 33BH. Towing it with a 2011 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 6.0L. Power is fine but the sway seems to be out of control. Have standard 1000lb equalizer hitch and bars. Have tried to take up on the chains and even with out the bars still no good. At a loss as to what to do to control the sway. It whips me all over in my lane at 55-60mph.

Any insight to this would be helpful.

Dry Weight: 8,370
GVWR: 11,162
Carrying Capacity: 2,800
Hitch Weight: 1,002
Axle Weight: 7,453
Lengths/Capacities
Exterior Length: 36' 6"
Exterior Height With A/C: 11' 9"
Fresh Water: 54 gallons
Black Water: 40 gallons
Gray/Galley Water: 30 gallons
Tire Size: 225/75R15D

[gates59]

My truck at the front sits level and the rear is 1 inch lower. I would not want to remove more than that. Just though stronger bars would remove the bounce. I'm still trying to convince my self to buy new weight distribution with built in sway control as my current setup can only add one friction type sway control.

[brulaz]

gates59 wrote:
I don't need to take weight off of the rear of my truck. I weight my truck and trailer. Trailer loaded is 5577 lbs and weight my truck only and truck only with weight distribution attached to trailer. The tongue weight with distribution bars attached is 595 lbs. So my guess is the actual tongue weight is a lot more. My weight bars are for 550 lbs max. My truck sits just as I want it too but I do get a little bounce from the trailer. I don't really feel it on my tv thought. I just thought that stronger bars would stiffen the bounce that I'm getting.

So if you used stronger bars, you would adjust them so the weight distribution is the same as what you have now with the weaker bars. IOW the axle weights would end up being the same.

I dunno whether the bars affect the suspension other than by just taking weight off the rear and putting it back on the front (and the trailer).

Think I've seen some speculation as to stronger bars putting more stress on the trailer's frame over road dips and bumps. Would that translate into reducing bounce? Just dunno.

[gates59]

I don't need to take weight off of the rear of my truck. I weight my truck and trailer. Trailer loaded is 5577 lbs and weight my truck only and truck only with weight distribution attached to trailer. The tongue weight with distribution bars attached is 595 lbs. So my guess is the actual tongue weight is a lot more. My weight bars are for 550 lbs max. My truck sits just as I want it too but I do get a little bounce from the trailer. I don't really feel it on my tv thought. I just thought that stronger bars would stiffen the bounce that I'm getting.

[brulaz]

gates59 wrote:
I have a quick question on a lower weight distribution bars. Mine are somewhere around 150 lbs less than the weight on my tongue. Will larger bars stop the bouncing front to back my trailer makes on bumps.

They should help by taking more weight off the rear axle of your truck.

But if you are over the truck's GVWR or rear GAWR, maybe a bigger truck or lighter trailer???

If not, perhaps you should look into stiffening your truck's rear suspension. There are many products available, extra leafs, super-springs, timbrens, air bags, roadmaster active suspension.

LT-metric tires and HD shocks might help as well.

[gates59]

I have a quick question on a lower weight distribution bars. Mine are somewhere around 150 lbs less than the weight on my tongue. Will larger bars stop the bouncing front to back my trailer makes on bumps.

[DiskDoctr]

kbravo1974 wrote:
Thanks all. First the tires on the truck are new so air pressures are good. I agree that the dealer should have probably sold me the next size up on the WDH bars given the tongue weight published is over 1000 lbs. I think that my heights are okay, but I will double check this.
I will keep researching this issue. Thanks for your suggestions.

Pay close attention to the angle of the ball and how/when to adjust it in that article, too.

Your tire pressure on TT should be at Max Cold pressure on the sidewall. Also, take a look at those tires for condition, WEIGHT RATING, and unusual wear.

Since you have a borderline capacity WDH from the dealer, it's possible your trailer tires are also near (over?) their max. When near the max, they flex quite a bit more compared to ones that are 20% or so below max capacity.

Things to consider.

[TomG2]

"Published" weights have been known to be way off at times. In fact, one wonders where they get them.

[kbravo1974]

Thanks all. First the tires on the truck are new so air pressures are good. I agree that the dealer should have probably sold me the next size up on the WDH bars given the tongue weight published is over 1000 lbs. I think that my heights are okay, but I will double check this.
I will keep researching this issue. Thanks for your suggestions.

[TomG2]

I am guessing that those are all "published" weights. The thing to do is follow the instructions for the three weighings required. Then you will have some idea where to start. $10-$12 on the scales will tell you more than all the guessing experts on this forum. Verify the payload on your tow vehicle also. That is a lot of trailer, it must be 3,000 pounds heavier and several feet longer than the tow vehicle, but I am guessing again.

[westend]

Have you noticed any unusual tire wear? Your tire size and trailer weights put you right at the maximum load bearing capacity of the tires(unless you have three axles?).

[Bob_Olallawa]

First off make sure the tires on the truck and trailer have the proper air pressure, if not high enough the trailer will push on the sidewalls of the tires and cause problems. The WDH bars are too lightweight which lets the trailer rock front to rear, and won't allow you to transfer the weight back to the front of the truck which lets the front of the truck move around and puts extra weight on the rear tires. With the rig loaded for travel do get it weighed to see where you are. The tongue weight might be low but probably close. When the hitch is set up properly, the trailer should be level front to rear or slightly down in front and the proper amount of weight moved back to the front axle of the truck. After you get the sway problem solved, do get some type of sway control installed to help you if/when the need happens.

[MudChucker]

I had a similar problem with a 32 foot 9800 pound TT before the 5th I have now, one single friction bar is all I needed to resolve the issue 100%. I bought both bars and never installed the second. I ended up selling them to someone on this site when the insurance company bought my TT.

[DiskDoctr]

I agree with heavier bars.

Also, take a look at this article about adjusting WDH.

Weight Distributing Hitch Adjustment

[downtheroad]

36+ footer...with standard 1K equilizer hitch..
First, I think you need heavier bars.
Second, what kind of sway control are you using?
Third, as posted by brulaz above, you need more tongue weight.

Equal-i-zer or Reese Dual Cam hitches both are better choices for a 36+ footer. Both incorporate sway control... Get either with 1400 lb. bars.

[Bheffington]

Measure the frame, between the tires. Lets say it is 23 inches from the ground to the bottom of the frame. The top of your ball should also be 23 inches when the trailer is hooked up. Maybe even an inch lower. If the front is higher than the initial frame height, then you need a longer drop hitch.