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The idler arm/pitman arm is bad again.....

ramyankee
Explorer
Explorer
Not sure which one is bad again, but I believe it is the pitman. The idler was replaced under the part warranty a couple of years ago and now the pitman arm is bad. It lasted probably 9000 miles.
The cost will be about $450 bucks. How tough a job is this?
This truck now has 99000 and a couple on it. Check the sig for truck info.
Rick and Patti 🙂
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2002 Chevy Silverado, 8.1, Crew, LB, 3.73, 4X4
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Now living in North Idaho (formerly Northeastern California) ... but the heart is with MONTANA STATE UNIVERSITY
15 REPLIES 15

transamz9
Explorer
Explorer
OP, they must be charging you 4 hrs labor @ $100 per hour to do a 2 hr job. The part is only $40. I think I would take it to a different place. GM also has specs that allow a little play up and down. Dodge is the same way with their ball joints. They will have a little play up and down right out of the box. It's the way the parts are designed to be.

You may have other problems that they are just masking. If you are having tire wear problems or something like that, the GM 4X4's are known for bearing assembly's getting dry and loose.
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Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
Not surprising after the talk I had with two local shop owners last week.

So I had a front end job side job come in and I wanted to get parts for the thing. So I talk to one well known local shop owner about front end parts and ask him who makes good front end parts now-days?

His answer, NOBODY. WTH? Really? He said really. IHHO they are all junk. I asked even MOOG? He said, yep, even MOOG is junk. :E

He even talked about re-boxed OEM parts. He went to a local Dodge dealer to buy some part for a truck and found out it was re-boxed China junk at OEM dealer prices.

Then I went to another friend that owns another well know shop and he told me the EXACT SAME STORY! He said all the new parts are junk. So I asked him what does he do? He told me just buy them and hope they make it past his warrantee period. :E

The first guy likes to have his customers buy their own parts. That way he tells them if they don't fall off of the car he doesn't want to hear about it because all he did was install them.
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fly-boy
Explorer
Explorer
Go to Cognito Motorsports and buy their brace for the pitman/idler arm assembly.

You will never have this problem again.
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Mvander
Explorer
Explorer
Op. I just did my idler/pitman and i would describe it as unfun. There is a puller for the pit man that is mandatory. Lots of penatranrt hammers and big ole breaker bar.
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DirtyOil
Explorer
Explorer
Engineer9860 wrote:
45Ricochet wrote:
LOL
According to the local "know it all GM guy" you have the wrong diagnosis. CAD program says it's really just bad fuel...
Pitman arm reqires the correct tools that most of us shade tree guys don't have.
I myself would have it done as it is not a really a easy DIY job.
Advice from a known problem child manufacture.


LOL?

Enjoy having fun at the OP's expense?

Last time I checked Dodge/RAM/whatever had their own front end issues.


NUTS....

looking at 45's post...don't see him putting down GM, don't understand your bashing of another manufacturer...no help to the OP at all.

As for the OP, like others have posted, both jobs are eaay to do, must have received some inferior parts.
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robwen
Explorer
Explorer
Oh I see. Ford puts the ball joint on the drag link. Mine was scary loose after 170k. Replacing made a big difference in steering wander.
Rob a.k.a 69oiler
'03 Ford Excursion V10 4x4 3.73 XLT
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robwen wrote:
Forgive me, but how does a pitman arm go bad? It doesn't have any moving parts , does it? Not Flaming, as I am elbow deep myself in 200k Ford front end issues. I replaced my drag link and sway bar links but still have ball joints and axle ujoints to do. I just don't see how a pitman arm can wear out.


Pitman arm has a ball joint on one end where it hooks to the drag link. That ball joint can wear out.
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robwen
Explorer
Explorer
Forgive me, but how does a pitman arm go bad? It doesn't have any moving parts , does it? Not Flaming, as I am elbow deep myself in 200k Ford front end issues. I replaced my drag link and sway bar links but still have ball joints and axle ujoints to do. I just don't see how a pitman arm can wear out.
Rob a.k.a 69oiler
'03 Ford Excursion V10 4x4 3.73 XLT
'98 SunnyBrook 30DB
'05 Continental Cargo 16'x8' enclosed 9950 GVW
Former Ford IDI and 7.3 PSD guy, hope to get back into a diesel someday.

wittmeba
Explorer
Explorer
This is the tool. It takes a lot of brute force but not bad otherwise. Just 1 bolt at each end. If it was done 9000 miles ago it might be a bit easier than a vehicle of 90000 miles ago.

Buy Moog or some better brand - might help last longer.
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Engineer9860
Explorer
Explorer
45Ricochet wrote:
LOL
According to the local "know it all GM guy" you have the wrong diagnosis. CAD program says it's really just bad fuel...
Pitman arm reqires the correct tools that most of us shade tree guys don't have.
I myself would have it done as it is not a really a easy DIY job.
Advice from a known problem child manufacture.


LOL?

Enjoy having fun at the OP's expense?

Last time I checked Dodge/RAM/whatever had their own front end issues.
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mtofell1
Explorer
Explorer
My 06 HD 2500 4X4 has been a great truck overall but the front end suspension parts are starting to add up. I've spent about $2500 over the last two years at the dealer on things like the pitman arm, hubs, etc, etc. Again it's a great truck but it seems the front ends are put together with duct tape and bailing wire. fwiw... I'm also in the 99% of time of pavement club.

Changing an idler or pitman arm is not that hard to do. I've changed dozens of them over the years.

One tool that is essential is a tie rod / ball joint splitter, pickle fork as we call them.

Take the nut off and insert splitter between arm and ball joint and give it good smack with a stout hammer and it comes apart.

The idler arm is bolted to the frame and the pitman arm resides on the end of the steering shaft coming out of the steering box. Pitman arm will have a good stout nut on the end of the shaft to take off with a large socket and breaker bar.

Strange it should wear out so early.... I have about 205,000K or 127,000 miles on my GM Dually and I'm running all the original steering components. And it's still tight. I grease it regularly and thats all.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
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ramyankee
Explorer
Explorer
This truck only logs about 3000-3500 miles a year and 99.9% is highway. I do haul dirt, DG, rocks/landscape material but that really puts no stress on the front end. And the hauling is all right on pavement and then to the house. I think this time they mentioned using a "higher quality" part. Sure wish they had done that the first time. And looking online it sure seems to be more a a job than I would take on.....No fancy tools and all.
Rick and Patti 🙂
2 Proud Christian CONSERVATIVES 🙂
2002 Chevy Silverado, 8.1, Crew, LB, 3.73, 4X4
2020 Mesa Ridge 291rls
Now living in North Idaho (formerly Northeastern California) ... but the heart is with MONTANA STATE UNIVERSITY

romore
Explorer II
Explorer II
Are you buying low priced aftermarket parts? Steering linkage should last more than 9000 under normal service. Does the truck see frequent off highway usage?