tow vehicle upgrades

[tcr475]

Thinking of buying a 20 to 24 tt I have a 08 silverado with a stock 5.3 wondering what upgrades i will need? Im thinking a tuner and cold air kit for power and fuel economy aux trans cooler thanks in advance

[SoundGuy]

tcr475 wrote:
Thinking of buying a 20 to 24 tt I have a 08 silverado with a stock 5.3 wondering what upgrades i will need?

For 4 years I towed our 24' KZ Spree which had a GVWR of 6000 lbs and typically weighed ~ 5500 lbs loaded and ready to camp with our 2006 Chevy Silverado with the ubiquitous 5.3L GM engine coupled to a non-tow friendly 3.42 axle ratio via the older wide ratio 4-spd transmission. I then continued to tow that same trailer with a 2005 Avalanche, same engine, same transmission, same axle ratio - same results ... OK but it sure wouldn't set any speeds records, always towed in 3rd with Tow Haul ON, and could only negotiate significant upgrades and maintain a respectable highway speed by downshifting to 2nd. I now tow a shorter trailer weighing 1000 lbs less than the Spree with that same Avalanche and the results aren't all that much different - OK but not spectacular as it's the barn door effect creating so much wind resistance, not overall weight, that has that little 5.3L working. GMs with the newer narrow ratio 6-spd would do better but if the axle ratio isn't at least a tow friendly 3.73 then that 5.3 will still be working. If your particular truck isn't so equipped then changing the axle ratio would by far be the most effective way of improving it's towing capability ... fairly easy and not too costly with a 4x2 but much more $$$$ involved if it's a 4x4. FWIW, I did not install any extra coolers in the Avalanche, deemed unnecessary by my GM dealership as long as the trailer's GVW loaded and ready to camp didn't exceed 6000 lbs. I've been using this Av since 2010 for towing and haven't had any issues at all but I certainly wouldn't want to tow any trailer with a GVW exceeding 6000 lbs.

[Vintage465]

I think you got some good info here. Definitely a WDH and a Sway Control. If your rig has a trailer towing package, I doubt if you even need a auxiliary trans cooler. I have a 1999 Suburban with a 5.7(350cid) that we used for many years pulling a comparable size trailer(25' bunkhouse). I hear the 5.3 is quite a bit more powerful than the 5.7. I always wanted to do the Banks Power Pack, but never did. I wouldn't put any performance kit or parts on unless it was from Banks. They have an entirely engineered package. My Suburban came with the factory tow package that included the auxiliary cooling(including a remote trans cooler). I never did a thing to it and we pulled that trailer everywhere at any temp and never had a single overheating issue. If I was going up and over some giant mountain like the Guadalupe Mountain Range out of Texas into New Mexico, I would put it in 4 wheel low to take stress of the transmission. And we had it serviced quite regularly. We finally replaced the transmission @ 319,000 miles, only cause my wife was getting concerned that we were getting ready to go on a long trip and there is very little in the way of repair shops on Hwy 395. It actually still worked perfectly. You really should be fine stock. If you don't think so after towing, then revisit the subject.

[Terryallan]

To see any (all be it small) performance improvement by opening the air intake. You also have to open the air output. Meaning you have to open the exhaust as well. An engine is a huge air pump. What it sucks in, has to have a place to be pumped out. The more it can pump. the better it will run. You will spend quite a lot of cash to do both, and in the end. Your truck will run better, and sound better. But you won't really be able to feel, or see, a huge difference. But you WILL hear it.

Did mine. Can't see a huge mpg difference. But it sure sounds GREAT, and it has great towing power, which was good anyway. .

Actually I believe it hurts the MPG. Why? I like to hear it wind out, and it takes gas to do that.

Hint. IF you decide to open the exhaust. Run the pipe / pipes, out the SIDE of the truck. NEVER out the back. If you run them out the back. The sound will bounce off the trailer, and come back in the cab, and that is loud, as the engine is working pretty much the entire time you are towing.

[Old-Biscuit]

Match the trailer weight (GVWR & wet tongue) to the trucks capabilities.

Then you have a good towing combo

Band aid fixes are just money ill spent as they do nothing for your trucks actual ratings.

I do agree with adding trans cooler......THAT is money well sent for towing.

[B_O__Plenty]

Your engine will get all the air it can use with the stock set up. Forget all the aftermarket hype. With fuel economy in forefront the way it is do you really think the Engineers that designed your truck left out enough capacity in the air induction system to cut down on your mileage? Same is true of the computer tune. You can't gain anything without giving something up...Save your money.

B.O.

[Dennis_Smith]

nice mirrors, Get a set of factory extended mirrors. The best thing we have on our F250 is the mirrors.. Did I tell you that is the best money you can spend.

[APT]

Save the $1000 towards a newer truck someday. Those modifications will not get you any power at 2500rpm where you want to spend most of your towing time.

Stick to around 5000 pounds dry. Use tow/haul mode. Lock out overdrive. Get a WDH with integrated sway control. Get a proportional brake controller.

[rbpru]

The DW and I along with many others pull a 25 ft TT with an F-150, E-Boost and towing package. Stock tires, hitch, tyranny and rear end.

If your TV does not have the towing package, I would check into a transmission cooler and the rear end gearing.

Before I did anything I would try it as it is. You may find you are fixing what does not need to be fixed and missing something that does.

My previous F-150 had the towing package with all the bells and whistles but only a small V6. It did not take to long to trade up.

[3oaks]

I agree with what the others have recommended. And forget chasing fuel economy while towing a TT. Wind resistance on the front of the trailer is the limiting factor as far as MPG.

[campigloo]

Your truck should have plenty of power. Go for the tranny cooler if it doesn't already have one. Excellent suggestion about the tires. Changed those shocks lately? A really high quality shock can make a huge improvement.

[firestorm79]

I agree, don't waste your time and money on engine modifications. To make any real difference in performance, you'll have to spend way more money than it's worth and like the others have said it's not the most important element anyway.

[DougE]

No engine mods are necessary, that's not the limiting factor and the tuner kit is more likely to introduce drivability problems rather than improve your tow performance. A decent plate-style transmission cooler will help a bunch. With that size trailer a brake controller is mandatory. A Class III receiver hitch will do the job (you shouldn't get into Class 5 territory with that vehicle) and I strongly recommend a weight distribution hitch. Adding sway control is a desirable safety item as well.

[downtheroad]

Forget the tuners and air kits...

Certainly an aux. trans. cooler (a must). Also make sure your truck has LT tires, not P rated tires. You will also need a brake controller and trailer harness wiring if not already equipped.

A frame mounted Class 5 hitch receiver also.

Good luck with it and enjoy your new adventure.