Transmission service

[Coffee_Grinder]

Any options on transmission service: draining vs flushing. I know draining doesn't get the torque converter. Have a 2016 Tundra and the dealers have varied opinions on service as well as mileage intervals. Some say 100,000 mi. Any info will be appreciated.

[powerstrokeaaro]

Coffee Grinder wrote:
Any options on transmission service: draining vs flushing. I know draining doesn't get the torque converter. Have a 2016 Tundra and the dealers have varied opinions on service as well as mileage intervals. Some say 100,000 mi. Any info will be appreciated.

I am a tech at Toyota and our dealer recommends a drain and fill with filter replacement at 15k and then every 30k after that. One of the few dealerships I have ever seen that don't try and sell you on the flush. The whole lifetime fluid thing is a sales gimmick, while synthetic fluid lasts a lot longer it doesn't last forever and better to be safe then sorry.

[MitchF150]

Thanks SoCal.. I can see and touch the lower rad hose, but it's not like any hose I've worked on before.. No traditional hose clamp.. It has a plastic elbow and the hose part just attaches to it.. Then it splits off with 2 smaller hoses to the oil filter adapter (integrated oil cooler as such).. My 97 F150 had the same setup, but it used good ol' hose clamps on the ends!

I'm sure it's some quick connect type of deal and I do have a shop manual for it, so I should read up on it and that might just be what I have to do to drain it! 🙂

Mitch

[mtofell1]

I follow manufacturer's recommendations to flush (or whatever) until the warranty is over. Then it's just drain and fills. Power flushing just seems too violent, especially on an older transmission that is operating fine.

[Chopperbob]

I welded a plug into the pan. My 07 F150 has 4.5 qts
in the pan. I change it about every 10,000 to 15,000.
I also installed a spin on filter on the return line to trans.
I change that every other drain. I also installed the same filter on my 2001 Tioga.

[ifd22]

I had my Transmission fluid changed at 50,000 miles. About 7,500 of those towing our Travel trailer. Fluid was changed by Toyota. Because of the lack of a dipstick, Toyota specifies a certain procedure using there Techstream computer to verify the transmission temps to verify the level. I had a sample of the fluid analyzed by Blackstone. Report came back good. If I recall correctly they stated I had plenty of life left in the fluid itself. The sample did show some higher then normal levels of wear metals found in the transmission, but they also stated those levels were often times seen on a first change and were common with break in.

[keymastr]

It really helps to let the engine run at idle for a few minutes after towing also. That keeps fluid moving and cools those hot components from burning the fluid. Some components can reach 1500 degrees and will burn fluid quickly if shut down before cooling off.

[SoCalDesertRid1]

MitchF150 wrote:
I just did a quick 'drain and fill' on my 13 F150. I didn't want to mess with taking the pan off, so I used a vacuum pump that connects to an air compressor that has a one qt reservoir on it.

The new F150 does not have a trans dip stick in the traditional sense.. You have to crawl under it and remove the fill plug and that's where the dip stick is...

Anyway, I just sucked out what fluid I could. Only 4 qts, which seems a bit low, but that's all I could get out..

Put 4 qts of fluid back in. I used a 5 qt jug and I have a hand pump that screws to the top of the jug. Pretty easy really.

Only have 34,000 miles on the truck, but feel if I do this around every 30,000 miles, it can't hurt.. It's supposed to go to 100k miles per the manual, so that's my reasoning.

I do the same thing with the coolant too.. Try to drain and fill well before it's time, just to keep some fresh stuff in there..

Haven't done the coolant yet, since I haven't been able to get to the drain plug on the rad... (I can "see" it, but can't get enough of a grip on it to open it!)

Anyway, that's my routine and works for me.. 🙂

Good luck!

Mitch

Pull off the lower radiator hose to drain the radiator, if you can't get to the drain plug. Drains much faster through the hose anyways.

[KD4UPL]

I find it hard to believe anyone could go 100,000 or more miles with no trouble on factory original transmission fluid like some claim. Maybe in a little car or something but not in a vehicle that tows something heavy. But, I guess they must have gotten by with it.
I certainly haven't read the manual for the OP's truck (I hope he has) but all the manuals I've ever read for truck tell you how often to service the transmission fluid and filter. It's always more often if towing. I think around 25,000 or 30,000 has been pretty standard with my Chevy's.
I don't have them flushed, just drained and a new filter.

[MitchF150]

I just did a quick 'drain and fill' on my 13 F150. I didn't want to mess with taking the pan off, so I used a vacuum pump that connects to an air compressor that has a one qt reservoir on it.

The new F150 does not have a trans dip stick in the traditional sense.. You have to crawl under it and remove the fill plug and that's where the dip stick is...

Anyway, I just sucked out what fluid I could. Only 4 qts, which seems a bit low, but that's all I could get out..

Put 4 qts of fluid back in. I used a 5 qt jug and I have a hand pump that screws to the top of the jug. Pretty easy really.

Only have 34,000 miles on the truck, but feel if I do this around every 30,000 miles, it can't hurt.. It's supposed to go to 100k miles per the manual, so that's my reasoning.

I do the same thing with the coolant too.. Try to drain and fill well before it's time, just to keep some fresh stuff in there..

Haven't done the coolant yet, since I haven't been able to get to the drain plug on the rad... (I can "see" it, but can't get enough of a grip on it to open it!)

Anyway, that's my routine and works for me.. 🙂

Good luck!

Mitch

[time2roll]

Just drain and refill is best IMO.
No drain plug in the pan? Add one or get an aluminum replacement while you have it off.
Filter change is overrated. Unless it is an actual spin-on filter vs the pick-up strainer.
But do drain the torque converter if you can.

[filrupmark]

SoCalDesertRider wrote:
I never do tranny flush service. Just remove pan, let it drain, replace filter and re-fill. It takes 2 or 3 times to get ALL the fluid out by just draining, if the torque converter doesn't have a drain plug. It's not necessary to get all the fluid out though, if it's not all burnt and nasty. If you drain, replace filter and re-fill at frequent intervals, say 30,000 instead of 60,000 miles, your fluid will be in good shape, provided you don't burn it up from hard use and getting too hot.

Agree

[SoundGuy]

hohenwald48 wrote:
Now that I've said that, I'll probably have one explode in the next couple of days. 🙂

I just did. :M 4-spd GM transmission in my Avalanche (4L60E I think), 201,000 km (~125,000 miles), just suddenly gave up the ghost with little warning. Had just returned from a camping trip, parked the trailer in the driveway, and poof - suddenly nothing. :E Later got it to the transmission shop by putting it in Tow/Haul and now $2700 Cdn later it's rebuilt and ready for it's next tow. Last time I had the transmission fluid changed I did have it flushed but shop owner said this failure with this particular transmission is common and had nothing to do with what I did or didn't do. It was just it's time but I sure was lucky it happened when and where it did. 😛

[hohenwald48]

I've never drained or changed transmission fluid. I usually get rid of vehicles around 150K but I did drive a 1994 diesel Suburban 380K. It had plenty of problems but none with the transmission. Guess I've just been lucky. Never had a single transmission problem.

Now that I've said that, I'll probably have one explode in the next couple of days. 🙂

[Coffee_Grinder]

You're right about the transmission fluid, it has to be pumped in since no stick. I think I'll drain and not flush

[mooky_stinks]

Be extremely careful when doing a refill or flush on any newer transmission.They're sealed for a reason. So many transmissions are so complicated now that many of them have their own special fluid that are specific to that transmission. That's the main reason so many don't have fill tubes anymore. They're actually protecting the owner (or a shop) from putting in the wrong fluid.