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Unbraked trailer, towing limitations

tealboy
Explorer
Explorer
Hey folks, I’m looking for a new tow vehicle for a rig coming in at 2700 lbs, loaded, per the scale. I decided to trade down to a more modest unibody suv like the highlander, telluride or similar with tow ratings of 5000 lbs.vs my customary Tahoe or sequoia since I tow infrequently (3-4x/year).

However, I discovered something I was unaware of, these vehicles often come with a 1000lb limit when trailers are “Unbraked”. My trailer does not have brakes, seems many in this lower weight class don’t, though some do. My state law requires brakes at 3000lbs.

This discovery caused me to to rethink the mid size suv and go back to the sequoia or a Tahoe. I was shocked to realize the big sequoia with 7500 lbs tow rating is also limited to 1000 lbs Unbraked. The Tahoe is 2000 lbs. The gm line of 1500 series pickups also 2k.

Wow. It seems the manufacturers are providing very conservative figures for Unbraked trailers due to liability so no matter what I pick outside of a 2500 series, I am out of compliance with manufactures recommendations/requirements and potentially subject to liability in an accident even though I’m within state law.

I know this group is far more informed than average people relative to towing but I see tons of smaller to mid size trailers like mine, including many boats, without brakes and suspect most are totally unknowing of these low thresholds bc the manufactures brag about high tow ratings but you need to look much deeper for the Unbraked limits .

I’m not sure what to do now. Thoughts on the subject and your awareness of these vehicle limitations?
113 REPLIES 113

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
RetiredRealtorRick wrote:

Mathematically looks great, but I'm not sure it works exactly that way in real life.


Probably depends on conditions but I wouldn't be surprised to find than it's not uncommon to require more than a 25% increase in braking distance.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
Grit dog wrote:
There’s a reason the law in many/ most states is 3klbs max with no brakes.


Probably dates back to the 1920s when 25-35mph speed limits were the norm.

Then all the old guys complained that they didn't want to pay to add brakes, so this was the compromise. Never been updated since then.

Do you have an historically accurate source to suggest why 3k lbs was chosen?
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

Sjm9911
Explorer
Explorer
Just add them. Its pretty strightfor2a4d if you have the backing plates. You can get them as a set on like e trailor, all you have to do is 4 bolts on the hub and add the wires. Dont forget the break away switch and the controller. If you are semi handy it will take a day. But probably like 4 hours.
2012 kz spree 220 ks
2020 Silverado 2500
Equalizer ( because i have it)
Formerly a pup owner.

PButler96
Explorer
Explorer
You should know by now if you've spent a minute reading these boards that you need an F-550 to pull a 2900 lb trailer, let alone stop one.
I have a burn barrel in my yard.

Boomerweps
Explorer
Explorer
Wow! Completely unaware of Ford requiring trailer brakes for 1500#. Found it in the owners manual.
I do have a chart of states requiring trailer brakes at what weight. (Unable to post pics here). Most states have a 3000# limit, a few less (the usual nanny states), a few more.
I had a enclosed cargo trailer that was legally limited to GVWR 2990# because it had no brakes, even though it had a 3500# axle in PA.
As was mentioned, electrical trailer brake assembles can be had for $200 or less a wheel. A little wiring and proper 7 pin plug w/o labor will be well under $500. I’ve seen that it’s easier and for not much more cost to buy a whole brake assembly vice replacement shoes on a trailer. If I had known the ease and cost of adding brakes, that cargo trailer would have got them.
2019 Wolf Pup 16 BHS Limited, axle flipped
2019 F150 4x4 SCrew SB STX 5.0 3.55 factory tow package, 7000#GVWR, 1990 CC Tow mirrors, ITBC, SumoSprings,

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
JMO, but towing a 2,500 lb trailer, that you know has no brakes, with a late model 150, is much safer than towing a 6,000 lb trailer, with same 150, that has impaired braking.

While members here may be more proactive, to keep their braking working at the max, many others are towing, with their brakes full of grease, electrical issues, or brakes that are way past adjustment time.

Jerry

tealboy
Explorer
Explorer
I appreciate all the great feedback. I still find this revelation very surprising and unexpected as I’ve pulled 2k to 3000 pound trailers for 30 years and never realized how extremely low unbraked ratings. As much as you all know about towing, I still suspect many of you did not realize the limits were only 1 to 2000 depending on the manufacture. I say that because Many of you are already dealing with heavier loads that automatically come brakes so digging deeply into the subject of unbraked is unnecessary.

With these low limits in mind, it would be interesting to start paying attention to all the F150s, towing 2000”-4000 pound trailer around and I bet most of them won’t have trailer brakes. I don’t say that to say it’s right or to justify anything I just think it’s the reality of how uninformed people are given all the hype the manufacturers place around the top rated tow numbers with no Asterix to prompt people to dig deeper. The F150 for example Has a unbraked limit of 1500 lbs.

IdaD
Explorer
Explorer
RetiredRealtorRick wrote:
Roger10378 wrote:
Actually it makes good sense. If you add a 2000 lb trailer to a 8000 lb tow vehicle that is 25% more for the vehicle to stop. Are you willing to follow 25% farther from traffic to ensure you can stop in time?


Mathematically looks great, but I'm not sure it works exactly that way in real life.

My vote is for adding surge brakes. Simple & effective. I towed car trailers for decades using them and never had a problem.


I'm not sure surge brakes would be any easier than installing electric brakes and running the wires up to a 7 pin. But it's certainly another viable option.
2015 Cummins Ram 4wd CC/SB

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Surge brakes aren’t a good option for those that don’t have a propensity for maintenance. And far more costly and more involved to install.
Electric brakes are much easier cheaper and allow the ability to control the trailer brakes at will.
Personally I wouldn’t add brakes to a 2700 lb trailer behind a full-size anything with good brakes. My answer would be opposite for a smaller tow rig.
There’s a reason the law in many/ most states is 3klbs max with no brakes.

You can overthink it all you want but in the end it’s whatever you’re comfortable with.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
So now we're up to needing a 2500 (3/4 ton) truck to tow a 2700lb trailer?

I see you your 3/4 ton and raise you one diesel dually. Better make that 2700lb trailer a tri-axle, brakes on all axles, while you're at it.

Brakes are a good idea but the point is going to a SMALLER tow vehicle, which the OP can easily do with a 2700lb trailer, if they install some brakes.

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

RetiredRealtorR
Explorer
Explorer
Roger10378 wrote:
Actually it makes good sense. If you add a 2000 lb trailer to a 8000 lb tow vehicle that is 25% more for the vehicle to stop. Are you willing to follow 25% farther from traffic to ensure you can stop in time?


Mathematically looks great, but I'm not sure it works exactly that way in real life.

My vote is for adding surge brakes. Simple & effective. I towed car trailers for decades using them and never had a problem.
. . . never confuse education with intelligence, nor motion with progress

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
op wrote:
I’m not sure what to do now. Thoughts on the subject and your awareness of these vehicle limitations?

I would install brakes on the trailer as suggested or sell that axle and replace with a next up size axle with brakes. You didn't say what size axle your trailer has but a 3500 lb axle has 3500 lbs of braking performance. Much cheaper than replacing the tow vehicle.

Same with lets say my wifes '16 1500 chevy with a 3950 fawr and 4000 rawr = 7950 lbs of braking performance at a minimum. Her truck weighs 5380 lbs with her and I = 2500-2600 lbs of reserve braking for a unbraked trailer.

A new gen 2500 chevy can have a 6600 rawr and a 5600 fawr = 12200 lbs of braking...at a minimum.

Braking with those old '70s and '80s tow vehicles could be problematic and down right scary. BTDT when I was on the road.
Not so with the newer tow vehicles and much much better braking systems.

Brakes are a function of the vehicles axle rating... at a minimum.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
So if your SUV is 5400lb, that means the trailer is adding 50% to the weight that it has to stop...plus what other gear/people do you have in the car.

I've had the trailer brakes not work one time and I went slow the 10 miles to get home...it took forever to come to a stop from speed. Not something I would want to repeat.

Also, there is the issue of keeping things in line. If the SUV rear axle starts to slide in a panic stop, the trailer is going to try and push it around into a jacknife. Trailer brakes will try to keep everything in line.

As suggested, see if you can add brakes to the trailer. There's a reason manufacturers provide much higher tow ratings when the trailer has brakes.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
This whole brake issue won’t matter at all…until you need to stop fast. Then it will matter. Get brakes on your trailer IMO.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

I'm sure that many of us here can attest to this:
If you have ever had to do a sudden panic stop, avoid an animal, vehicle incident or whatever, you will appreciate having trailer brakes.

In normal driving conditions, keeping a safe distance etc you can likely make out ok. But what about if a child chasing a ball suddenly shows up in front of you and there's nowhere to swerve? I've had that happen.

Years ago when I lived in BC, I thought anything over 1500 pounds required brakes. I might be wrong, but I think it's a good rule.

About 15 years ago in Langley BC, on the bypass I saw a small car towing a TT. Traffic suddenly bunched up and he plowed into the car in front of him, unable to stop. Highly unlikely the tow car had a brake controller.
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