Upgrade braking power

[howardwheeler]

My 2012 F 350 has all the power needed to comfortably pull my trailer, but falls short on comfortably stopping the trailer. I don't feel I'm dangerous, but I'd like more overall stopping power for some time in the future when some emergency demands the most stopping power available. I've redone all my trailer brakes, and short of going to all discs on the trailer, I think I've got it working as good as it can. I've considered seeing if I could trade up to a 2013 or 14 because of the bigger brakes. But I'm also considering modifications that could substantially improve braking. Anyone changed calipers, rotors and pads on this model? What about an exhaust brake? I'm open but fear the price is going to put me into considering just going to a new one (for me),

[howardwheeler]

Yes my brakes on the trailer are the 12.25x3.375 full size brakes. I'll let everyone know about the test with my friend's truck.

[dodge_guy]

The trailer brake magnets on mine were shot from day one. it never stopped well. I finally replaced all the magnets and it has stopped well since. I never feel as if I`m underbraked anymore!

[C_Schomer]

I'd check out aftermarket brakes for the truck. I got fed up with 12x2 drum trailer brakes. I tried new back plates bigger wiring, soldered every connection and they still sucked! I bought this 15kgvw 5er used and put on 8k discs ($1800) as soon as I got it home and what a difference. I empathize, my 5er brakes were terrible and I really feared for an emergency stop. Are your 8k drum brakes 12.25x3.375? I don't know if the 8k discs are better than the 8k drums cuz I never had them. Craig

[howardwheeler]

I cannot get the brakes to lockup manually using the slider.

[transamz9]

howardwheeler wrote:
I do have a friend that has a 2012 f 350 also. I'm going to hook up to his and see if there's a difference. I know the main brake wire is a ten gauge to the axles. It may drop down to 12 to go to the magnets. I'm not sure I remember. You're right that I should consider replacing the trailer wiring. I did that on a Travel Trailer I had before and it made a big difference. But my present trailer does seem to have proper wiring all in parallel. I did check total amps and it was around ten. So I've been assuming the trailer was finally up to snuff. I know voltage at each brake was good. Around 12.7 as I remember.

Remember that the IBC using the slide on the controller itself is not the same as what it will put out by sensing brake pressure. Have you tried to see how the brakes work doing it manually?

[coolbreeze01]

howardwheeler wrote:
Thanks. My shoes are all very good to new as are the magnets. Actually all the magnets are new. I replaced all connectors with good heat shrink butt crimp connectors. The main ground connector was very suspicious. The trailer does do much better now but the whole setup still has less than I'd like. I'm going to borrow my friends F 350 and do a side by side comparison this week to see if my integrated controller is up to snuff. I'm still interested in the brakes of my truck because of all I've read about weak 2012 brakes. We'll see.

Good luck. Having had bad luck with a Ford myself, I feel your pain.

[howardwheeler]

Thanks. My shoes are all very good to new as are the magnets. Actually all the magnets are new. I replaced all connectors with good heat shrink butt crimp connectors. The main ground connector was very suspicious. The trailer does do much better now but the whole setup still has less than I'd like. I'm going to borrow my friends F 350 and do a side by side comparison this week to see if my integrated controller is up to snuff. I'm still interested in the brakes of my truck because of all I've read about weak 2012 brakes. We'll see.

[BenK]

A good thread !

Braking is more important to me than 'go' and am a boy racer who loves 'go'

Integrated controller, so ask if it is MC hydraulic sensed or brake pedal
sensed?

Both my TV's (the 1996 Sub and the 1980 Silverado) have performance
brakes and can out stop most or lots of cars. So they need to have the
trailer lead in braking by lots...

My P3 and system is setup to lead by lots and even leads MC Hydraulic
sensed system

Can modulate the trailer brakes via the TV's brake pedal and NEVER
have the TV's brakes come on.

Questions:

#1 What condition is your trailer brake harness in? Betcha stock and
minimally sized wire gauge...plus marginal connectors to even stake
type connectors (that is what I call them...they do NOT cut the wire,
but poke a split tab that pushes the wire insulation outa the way to
then touch the wire)

#2 What type of friction material does the trailer shoes have? Condition
of the drums? Self adjusters usually don't, so I manually adjust
often during a trip. Normally at each pit or fuel stop

#3 Integrated, so not a DIY and the worrisome (to me) bleeding of the
sensor line, but MC Hydraulic sensors do leak and go bad. Or you have
an air bubble between the sensor and the MC piston

#4 Does your integrated controller also sense the brake pedal? If so,
that might be able to be readjusted to provide more lead

#5 Trailer grease on the shoes or drum. Even a greasy finger when
working on it can make a difference

#6 Trailer brake magnets...they do wear out and/or get rusty and
not provide full force

[Travlingman]

I have a 2012 F350 and fiver weighs over 15K. Controller is set at 6 and trailer brakes lock up at any setting over that.

[howardwheeler]

Thanks. I'll look them up.

[ksss]

I put EBC Sport Rotors and Hawk SD pads on my 06 GMC 3500. Much better than stock, don't know if that helps, but you could check the reviews and see if that combo has worked for your application.

[howardwheeler]

I do have a friend that has a 2012 f 350 also. I'm going to hook up to his and see if there's a difference. I know the main brake wire is a ten gauge to the axles. It may drop down to 12 to go to the magnets. I'm not sure I remember. You're right that I should consider replacing the trailer wiring. I did that on a Travel Trailer I had before and it made a big difference. But my present trailer does seem to have proper wiring all in parallel. I did check total amps and it was around ten. So I've been assuming the trailer was finally up to snuff. I know voltage at each brake was good. Around 12.7 as I remember.

[Halmfamily]

I felt the same with my F350 with the IBC. Always had mine set to the highest setting and never felt they would stop quick enough in an emergency. I was wrong. I decided to try an emergency stop at 55 MPH and the setup stopped very quickly and straight as an arrow. No brake lockup and could feel the ABS working. My fiver is 12600 lbs. Only thing I wish I would have done was ensured the cupboards and drawers were all closed properly. That's a lot of food and broken dishes to pick up. Good luck.

[transamz9]

I know you are not going to want to here this but I think your BC is not up to the task. The integrated controllers in some of our Ford trucks work differently than others pulling the same trailer. Out of five of them with factory controllers I had to end up putting an aftermarket controller in one of them because it just wouldn't put out the power to safely stop our gooseneck equipment trailer when loaded.

See if you can find a buddy that has a truck that can hook to your rig and see if his truck's BC is any different. I bet it is. My cheap brake controller will lay 4 black marks at 20 mph.