Weight Distribution with sway control question

[BobbyHJ]

I was wondering what the differences are between the straight line (CAM) and the 4 - Point weight distribution with sway control. Which one is better, and why? I assume the 2 -point distribution system is more for WD.

Thanks.

[Huntindog]

Lynnmor wrote:

LarryJM wrote:


The most commonly used friction bar has an adjustment which determines how much tension/compression it can produce. The magnitude of this is factory-set at 1100#. The center-center distance between the friction-bar ball and the main ball is 5.5". Therefore, at the factory setting, this friction bar can generate about 500 ft-lbs of torque. If you installed one of these bars on each side of the A-frame, the pair could generate about 1000 ft-lbs.

One difference between the friction-bar control and the DC and Equal-i-zer is that the friction force on the friction bar can easily be "turned off". Some people believe this is an advantage when towing in reduced-traction conditions.

Since the friction bar can and should be adjusted, where did you get the "factory-set at 1100#" figure?

Just read the directions. The bar has a lever on one side and a bolt on the other. The lever is supposed to cranked down all the way every time. The bolt can be used to adjust it. The factory presets this bolt.

I know that many here adjust them with the lever, but the intructions specifically state not to.

[ScottG]

LarryJM wrote:
Below is a post from Ron Gratz made HERE several years ago explaining specifically how both the Equal-i-zer and DC cam systems work:

The Dual Cam is a friction based anti-sway system. I discussed how it differs from the Equal-i-zer in my previous post. I do not know the magnitudes of anti-sway torques which can be generated by these two systems; but, I'm working on that.

A difference between Equal-i-zer and Dual Cam which I did not address is how the sway control affects the ability of the TV and TT to realign once they have developed a relative yaw angle. The Equal-i-zer will produce the same resisting torque whether the TT is trying to move away from the "centered" position or moving away from it. The DC, by virtue of the sloping surfaces on the ends of its WD bars will provide more resistance to moving away from center than to moving toward center. Some see this as an advantage in helping to get the vehicles realigned after a lane change, rounding a curve, etc.

The Equal-i-zer differs from a friction-bar anti-sway system in two important ways:
1) It can generate anti-sway torque directly via the trunnions and seats, and
2) It can generate much more torque.
A friction bar simply produces a tension or compression in the bar which, in turn, pushes or pulls on the ball to which the end of the bar is attached. This generates a torque on the hitch which helps to control sway.

The most commonly used friction bar has an adjustment which determines how much tension/compression it can produce. The magnitude of this is factory-set at 1100#. The center-center distance between the friction-bar ball and the main ball is 5.5". Therefore, at the factory setting, this friction bar can generate about 500 ft-lbs of torque. If you installed one of these bars on each side of the A-frame, the pair could generate about 1000 ft-lbs.

One difference between the friction-bar control and the DC and Equal-i-zer is that the friction force on the friction bar can easily be "turned off". Some people believe this is an advantage when towing in reduced-traction conditions.

Ron

You can readily see that there is NO PUSH OR FORCE in how the DC Cam system works. The cams with their slope only change the amount of "FRICTION RESISTANCE" depending on how far off the trailer is from centerline.

Larry

Well Larry, as a retired engineer I do understand how such things work and I can explain how lateral force is generated but I don't think you're open to a civil discussion about it. So, there's no reason for me to attempt to do so. We'll just have to agree to disagree.
One thing is for certain, there is absolutely no friction material employed in the DC.

Good luck to you.

[Lynnmor]

LarryJM wrote:


The most commonly used friction bar has an adjustment which determines how much tension/compression it can produce. The magnitude of this is factory-set at 1100#. The center-center distance between the friction-bar ball and the main ball is 5.5". Therefore, at the factory setting, this friction bar can generate about 500 ft-lbs of torque. If you installed one of these bars on each side of the A-frame, the pair could generate about 1000 ft-lbs.

One difference between the friction-bar control and the DC and Equal-i-zer is that the friction force on the friction bar can easily be "turned off". Some people believe this is an advantage when towing in reduced-traction conditions.

Since the friction bar can and should be adjusted, where did you get the "factory-set at 1100#" figure?

[LarryJM]

Below is a post from Ron Gratz made HERE several years ago explaining specifically how both the Equal-i-zer and DC cam systems work:

The Dual Cam is a friction based anti-sway system. I discussed how it differs from the Equal-i-zer in my previous post. I do not know the magnitudes of anti-sway torques which can be generated by these two systems; but, I'm working on that.

A difference between Equal-i-zer and Dual Cam which I did not address is how the sway control affects the ability of the TV and TT to realign once they have developed a relative yaw angle. The Equal-i-zer will produce the same resisting torque whether the TT is trying to move away from the "centered" position or moving away from it. The DC, by virtue of the sloping surfaces on the ends of its WD bars will provide more resistance to moving away from center than to moving toward center. Some see this as an advantage in helping to get the vehicles realigned after a lane change, rounding a curve, etc.

The Equal-i-zer differs from a friction-bar anti-sway system in two important ways:
1) It can generate anti-sway torque directly via the trunnions and seats, and
2) It can generate much more torque.
A friction bar simply produces a tension or compression in the bar which, in turn, pushes or pulls on the ball to which the end of the bar is attached. This generates a torque on the hitch which helps to control sway.

The most commonly used friction bar has an adjustment which determines how much tension/compression it can produce. The magnitude of this is factory-set at 1100#. The center-center distance between the friction-bar ball and the main ball is 5.5". Therefore, at the factory setting, this friction bar can generate about 500 ft-lbs of torque. If you installed one of these bars on each side of the A-frame, the pair could generate about 1000 ft-lbs.

One difference between the friction-bar control and the DC and Equal-i-zer is that the friction force on the friction bar can easily be "turned off". Some people believe this is an advantage when towing in reduced-traction conditions.

Ron

You can readily see that there is NO PUSH OR FORCE in how the DC Cam system works. The cams with their slope only change the amount of "FRICTION RESISTANCE" depending on how far off the trailer is from centerline.

Larry

[LarryJM]

Huntindog wrote:

ScottG wrote:
The beauty of the dual cam is it actually pushes the trailer back in line with the tow vehicle.


X2. The Dual Cam is superior to the 4 point system. The 4 point doesn't try and stop sway it just slows it, and then slows it from returning. The DC will resist sway and if it does move will be forced back to center.

If it really worked like that with any signifignant force, it would be dangerous in slippery conditions when turning in a curve.

It doesn't and it isn't.

100% correct and those thinking the dual cam "forces or pushes" anything simply DO NOT UNDERSTAND how all these friction based systems work and it's too bad this BULL is mentioned anytime any talk concerning sway control systems is brought up.

Larry

[JIMNLIN]

opnspaces wrote:
That really is a Ford vs Chevy type of discussion.They are both good in their own way and both are fairly effective.

X3.... which one is better is the one owned. One brand or type is not the best for all vehicle combinations.
A suggestion..... when your researching is to ignore bash replies about a particular brand.

[dodge_guy]

ScottG wrote:
Huntingdog, I'm sorry but you're wrong on both counts.
Yes, it pushes the trailer back in line but there's nothing dangerous about it. I've even had it in the snow. Is the force "significant"? It is enough to do the job, nothing more. It is easily overcome when turning by the weights involved.
No, it does not use friction for control. It doesn't use brake material anywhere like other systems do. It uses pure spring pressure via the spring bars pocket climbing up off the cam. You could submerge the entire thing in oil and it would still work the same.

Best of luck to you.

Scott

Exactly! They perform completely different. Having set up both, the DC although more in depth to setup is the better sway control hitch. The only thing better is the H/A and Pro Pride.

[ScottG]

Huntingdog, I'm sorry but you're wrong on both counts.
Yes, it pushes the trailer back in line but there's nothing dangerous about it. I've even had it in the snow. Is the force "significant"? It is enough to do the job, nothing more. It is easily overcome when turning by the weights involved.
No, it does not use friction for control. It doesn't use brake material anywhere like other systems do. It uses pure spring pressure via the spring bars pocket climbing up off the cam. You could submerge the entire thing in oil and it would still work the same.

Best of luck to you.

Scott

[Huntindog]

ScottG wrote:
The beauty of the dual cam is it actually pushes the trailer back in line with the tow vehicle.


X2. The Dual Cam is superior to the 4 point system. The 4 point doesn't try and stop sway it just slows it, and then slows it from returning. The DC will resist sway and if it does move will be forced back to center.

If it really worked like that with any signifignant force, it would be dangerous in slippery conditions when turning in a curve.

It doesn't and it isn't.

[Huntindog]

lots of misconceptions here.
The DC and the EQUALIZER are both friction based systems. The cams of the DC do not really add all that much to the friction. What happens is that there is more sway resistance when the TT is moving away from center and less when moving towards center..... BUT, it is important to realize that sway is a back and forth movement of the TT in BOTH directions.

The EQUALIZER has the same amount of sway resistance in BOTH directions. In reality it is pretty much a wash performance wise.

THe DC can be harder to install, but that was not a deal breaker for me. It seems that often proper setup of the DC results in poor ground clearance. That is an important factor for me.

Both systems rely on TW for the sway resistance.. The more TW, the more sway resistance they can achieve.

[dodge_guy]

ScottG wrote:
The beauty of the dual cam is it actually pushes the trailer back in line with the tow vehicle.
That being said, there are lots of different technologies that strive to achieve the same thing. Some use other methods to help force vehicle and trialer in-line. I haven't tried them all but I far prefer the perfromance of the DC over the Equalizer I had.

X2. The Dual Cam is superior to the 4 point system. The 4 point doesn't try and stop sway it just slows it, and then slows it from returning. The DC will resist sway and if it does move will be forced back to center.

Yes it is more precise to setup, but anything that takes a bit longer to do is always the better way to go?

[Campteacher]

I have used the Husky Center Line TS hitch the last couple of years, no complaints.

Kevin

[Hannibal]

The Equalizer 4 point is a no drill installation and for me, easy to set up. It works great, even with a dab of grease on the L brackets for quiet. I’m using a Reese HP now without the cam arms so no sway control. I can tell a difference but nothing scary. With our trailer’s inverted coupler, the cam arms would be too vertical in my humble opinion.

[ScottG]

kellem wrote:

rexlion wrote:
I've had the Equal-i-zer and it worked well. It was easy for me to install without drilling anything. I've read that the Reese is harder to set up correctly (and RV dealers don't always get it set right, either).

The 2-point provides some anti-sway friction, but the 4-point will do more.

I liked the Andersen better than the Equal-i-zer mainly because it was easier to deal with chains than heavy, long bars when disconnecting and reconnecting. It worked just as well, too. Only, the Andersen is best for trailers under about 7K lbs as it cannot level the rig properly when there's a lot of tongue weight.

True regarding the Reese as it requires additional tweaking once trailer is loaded but a competant dealer should thoroughly explain the function of any WDH to buyer.

It may be harder than some but the difficulty lies in having to get the truck and trailer dead straight in order to set the cams up right. After that, hitching up is no harder than any other hitch.
The Anderson would be just as important to have dead straight during setup.

[kellem]

rexlion wrote:
I've had the Equal-i-zer and it worked well. It was easy for me to install without drilling anything. I've read that the Reese is harder to set up correctly (and RV dealers don't always get it set right, either).

The 2-point provides some anti-sway friction, but the 4-point will do more.

I liked the Andersen better than the Equal-i-zer mainly because it was easier to deal with chains than heavy, long bars when disconnecting and reconnecting. It worked just as well, too. Only, the Andersen is best for trailers under about 7K lbs as it cannot level the rig properly when there's a lot of tongue weight.

True regarding the Reese as it requires additional tweaking once trailer is loaded but a competant dealer should thoroughly explain the function of any WDH to buyer.