There is a whole science to tires that this only touches the tip of
Anyone ever notice how racers (take Indy) pull their vehicle side to side
in extreme angles once they change or have fresh tires at the beginning?
That is to heat them up and flex the plys (cords or fabric) 'breaking'
them in, which should have had them broken in before the race (all spare
sets too)
Today's rubber compound (rubber is less than 50% these days...most at least)
and has to 'cure' before they develop their potentials fully
Both the compound and fabric (plys and cords)
Also the performance (slip angle the main) is in transition all the
time that tire is curing. Even in transition during the heat up of
a cured tire
Yokohama's are a bit softer than most and do require more curing or
break-in time. They are also more sensitive to PSI vs rim width.
My 1980 C10 Silverado has both Timberline (owned by Yokohama) and
Yokohama Geolanders. Both 33/12.5R15LT load range C's on 8.5" wide
rimes (or maybe 8" wide...can't remember). A bit on the narrow side
so they have much more sidewall bendback and more roll over during
hard maneuvering.
Max PSI is 35 on those 'LT' class tires
The slip angle between the Timberline and Geolander is very noticeable
with the Geolander having a smaller slip angle
Slip angle only on aspect of steering/tracking/etc. The TT (toss and
tuck is what I used to call it, but assume tire OEM's have a different
coinage).
TT is toss it 'that-a-way' and it will take some time (factored by the
rim width vs tire OEM recommendation and PSI) before the tire will
squirm/flex/etc to finally transmit the wheel change in direct (from the
steering wheel) to the tread...to the pavement
Then hang on while the tire settles down into that new direction and
provide feedback to the wheel, which then goes to the steering components
That is tuck to me
Load vs PSI vs loading vs wheel rim width has lots to do in the above.
Even tire RPMs
Check out the PSI vs load. There are several methods. From chalk to
masking tape to whatever. Some times when driven over wet, sandy, etc
will take note of how much the tread picks up sand/etc or tread
marks on dry pavement
Heat from flexing (rolling, squirming, etc) cures it, but note that
heat above a certain temp is any tires enemy
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...