your thoughts

[rangerheave]

I am looking at buying a 2015 Keystone Energy 300FBS toy hauler. The dry weight is 7740, carrying capacity is 2260, and the dry tongue weight is 1180.

Right now I own a 2013 F150 EB, SuperCrew, Max Tow. I use a weight distribution hitch with anti-sway kit. The travel trailer which I just sold and pulled up and down the mountains here in Alaska without issue was a 2012 Passpport 3050BH.

My concern with the trailer that I am looking at is the tongue weight. What effect does the "E" rated tires and weight distribution kit have on this combination and the payload capacity of my truck? Would the Roadmaster Active Suspension or Firestone Air Bags be a worthwhile investment?

Cleary, me buying a bigger truck is the best answer (I have been looking at a 2015 F350 Lariat). Is what I listed above a SAFE combination?

Thanks in advance for your responses.

[BurbMan]

rangerheave wrote:
The dealer where I was looking at this new trailer told me (very confidently I might add) that by adding my 1,000lb Polaris RZR to the back would take a "great deal" of the weight off the tongue.

You can calculate that. Find the point on the trailer midway between the axles, then measure from there to the coupler. Then measure back from the midpoint to where the Polaris would sit.

Example: The midpoint between the trailer axles is 20' to the coupler and the Polaris is parked 10' behind the midpoint. 1000 lbs x 10' =10,000. 10,000/20' = 500 lbs, so your tongue weight would lighten by 500 lbs in this example.

Using the same example for stuff packed ahead of the axles. If you add 100 lbs 10' from the midpoint and 10' from the coupler, it adds 50 lbs to the tongue weight and 50 lbs to the trailer axles. If the 100 lbs is 5' from the coupler, it adds 75 lbs to the tongue weight and 25 lbs to the trailer axles. You get the idea.

If you weigh every item that you add to the trailer and do the math as above, i'm betting you will reach the same conclusion:

rangerheave wrote:
I think Ive been hornswaggled.

[TurnThePage]

rangerheave wrote:
Thank you all for your responses. What you all have said pretty much confirms what I already thought.

The dealer where I was looking at this new trailer told me (very confidently I might add) that by adding my 1,000lb Polaris RZR to the back would take a "great deal" of the weight off the tongue. I think Ive been hornswaggled.

I don't think the dealer was lying about that. Toy haulers are designed tongue heavy intentionally just to offset the weight of your toys. I think that trailer unloaded is too much for your hitch, but loaded it "might" be just fine.

[rangerheave]

Thank you all for your responses. What you all have said pretty much confirms what I already thought.

The dealer where I was looking at this new trailer told me (very confidently I might add) that by adding my 1,000lb Polaris RZR to the back would take a "great deal" of the weight off the tongue. I think Ive been hornswaggled.

[MitchF150]

APT wrote:
The dry TW exceeds your receiver limit and will likely increase from there. I recommend an upgraded truck, 3/4+ ton.

That right there is enough to void the whole thing, so worrying about payload and tires is moot... 😉 Your receiver is rated at #1150 TW using a WD hitch setup, so if the dry TW is already #1180, you are pretty much done right there..

I guess you could load #2000 of toys in the back of the TH, but then that would likely make the tongue too lite and it won't tow very well..

Good luck!

Mitch

[BurbMan]

Toy haulers have a heavy tongue weight by design...when you load the heavy toys in the garage behind the axle, it will actually lighten the tongue weight. What the loaded tongue weight winds up at is a function of what you load in the garage and what you load in storage up front, as well as where the fresh water and gasoline tanks are located...since most TH users boondock out where they can use the toys, plan on traveling with fresh tank full and fuel tank full.

That said, my guess is that when it's all said and done you'll be over your payload limits on the 150. The Roadmaster helps stability and the air bags will help level the rig, but neither do anything to increase your rear axle rating or rear tire ratings. Personally I would be OK pushing the GVWR, but once you go over axle/tire ratings you create safety issues.

Whether it's "safe" or not depends on what the whole shebang rolls over the scales at...you might be OK but if I had to guess I would say no. If you plan on carrying passengers and/or stuff in the truck bed when towing, I would say definitely no.

The 350 would be a much better choice.

[goducks10]

You're trying to pound a stake with a ball-peen hammer when you really need a sledge hammer. Get the right tool for the job. 3/4 ton or better.

[DKean]

I think you should check what the F150 rear axel weight ratings are. A one ton srw would give you a good safety cushion. Bigger brakes, frame,and bed.
My son in law has tt like the one you want.His TV is a 2006 F250 CC 8 ft bed and a 6.0 diesel. He used to tow with a f150 and said he would never tow that heavy again with a 150. You won't need a diesel. A gas engine will do just fine. The larger frame brakes and rear axels is what makes the difference.

[brulaz]

I pull an 8000# (loaded) trailer with 1220# TW and don't think I'd want to go any higher. Maybe if the TW were lower, but your TW is already pretty high, unloaded. EDIT: But if that's a rear load toy hauler, the tongue weight could well decrease when loaded.

As we have a high payload, we are not over the GVWR, but are over the Hitch Receiver and rear GAWR a bit.

I'd get an F150 with the HD Payload option or a 250/2500 series truck for that trailer.

[APT]

The dry TW exceeds your receiver limit and will likely increase from there. I recommend an upgraded truck, 3/4+ ton.

[camp-n-family]

You may be well under the fictional "tow rating" but the hitch weight alone will exceed your receiver's max rating. It will probably put you over your payload and possibly axle rating as well, depending on what else you carry in the truck. There is nothing you can do to the truck to increase its payload or GVWR.

If you're set on that TH, don't mask an under rated truck with bandaids. Get the F350.

[handye9]

Initial thought is, it's too much trailer, or too little truck.

As far as suspension modifications, they may help with ride comfort, but, none will increase your capacity.

Here is a calculator program. Plug in your numbers and see what it says.

The hitch weight box is referring to the WD hitch. Average is 100 lbs.

You may want to take a look at your weight dist. hitch, it may not be rated for the tongue weight of that toy hauler.

[PA12DRVR]

I wouldn't do it. 10,000 # GVWR trailer would/could put circa 1500# of load on the bumper....add that to the people and stuff you'll have in the truck already and I suspect your up against the trucks GVWR limit.

What are the GVWR, GCVWR, FAWR, RAWR of your truck?

In addition to the ratings, I'd have a general concern about that trailer (if loaded) pushing the truck around....but that's a perception thing whereas the ratings are numbers.

[BenK]

Go out and weigh our F150 fully loaded as if ready to go towing, axle by axle

Best to actually weigh the trailer too (hooked up)

Gather your F150's ratings: GVWR, F/R GAWR, GCWR (there are over a
dozen, am told, models of F150...from +6K GVWR to just under 8K GVWR)
There used to be fake half ton F150 with a +8K GVWR and 6K RGAWR, but
don't know if Ford still offers that one

Then use the diagram below to figure what the max weights of the tongue and
trailer are in reference to your F150's GCWR

Play around with those possibilities with your available left over rating for
your RGAWR

BenK wrote:
A continual point of bewilderment for me how a chart can know how much
'my' TV weighs...and what is NOT rocket science and is simple
math...becomes rocket science for folks who won't go out and actually
weigh their TV, axle by axle...and their trailer...whether Fiver or
tongued...and that, that chart knows the actual PIN/tongue of any
particular trailer.

Then the forever debate whether to follow the RATINGS or not...to even
what is a rating...as if the OEM engineering team are clueless on that topic

Or the belief that any OEM published/listed/etc MTWR is an absolute...it is NOT

Continue to say...decide whether you believe in the ratings system or
not...if not, then do whatever and know that you have taken the OEM(s)
off the warranty (if any left) hook and liability hook. If yes, then
learn how the ratings system works and go out and actually weigh your
stuff

The simple math equation is:

GCWR >= TV + TT + all cargo/hitch/etc

Then factor in the actual weights to which ever 'RATING' in the below
diagram (whimsy to try and get the point across that even a motorcycle
'can' tow something...but within it's ratings)...that each RATING might
become the weak link to dictate the overall RATING...

howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditow


So folks...tell me where I've missed the point of all this? So that I
can learn if I'm off the mark