Utah Parks Itinerary

[Kaz]

We're headed to Utah next Spring and I'm mapping out a route and would appreciate some advice on duration for each of the stops. In relevant part, starting in Las Vegas, the plan is to go (1) to Zion, then (2) Bryce Canyon, then (3) Capitol Reef, and then (4) Moab for Arches and Canyonland. At each stop, we like to go on hikes, do motor tours (on-road) and see the sights, do guided walks, and attend ranger talks at night. For hiking, we're both in our 60s, but 5-6 miles in the morning, and that same amount in the afternoon, or maybe even 10+ miles with a lunch stop in the middle (subject to the dog issue mentioned below) are all doable. I'm also into photography, so I like to spend time (often at sunrise or sunset) getting landscape pictures. Oh, and we will be traveling with our two little miniature dachshunds, AKA little yappy brat dogs, which means we really ought to get back around lunch and dinner time to deal with them.

I can't imagine less than a couple days at each stop and maybe 3-4 days at Moab. My question is whether I better plan on more at some or all of the stops. For those of you with similar kinds of preferred activities and experience at these locations, what would you recommend?

Thanks in advance,
Skip

[timandsusan]

We have done all of these Utah Parks along with other sites in the 4-corners area. The driving distances will cut into your hiking/photo time--based on my experience as a hiker and photo guy. We have been to Moab 5 times in the past 7 years and expect to return again for new adventures--like rafting! Also the altitude will take some getting used to. We like Ranger programs--at Bryce check on the night time star watch presentation schedule. Bryce is one of the darkest spots in the continental US. Rangers set up telescopes and give a great presentation. As others have said--all this takes time--so enjoy it all! Any specific questions--send a PM.

[Kaz]

I hate to sound like a broken record (does anyone still know what a broken record is?), but thanks, thanks, and thanks. All of these tips and pointers are great and I really appreciate everyone taking the time to provide the information. And I am definitely going to "House on Fire"--that's the most dramatic "ruin" I've ever seen. Wow.

Skip

Jon -- I spent some time looking at your pictures (very nice) and I love the picture of Lake McDonald in Glacier. Here's my favorite of St. Mary's Lake:

The nice thing about Glacier is that it's pretty hard to take a bad picture!

[lbrjet]

House on fire is worth the hike even if you don't get a blazing photo. Something about being in the middle of nowhere in a natural setting with no one else around. It is also close to Blue Mountain and on the way to Natural Bridges. We have hiked in all of the Utah National Parks and Capitol Reef is our favorite. Arches a close second. We have been to Natural Bridges twice (another of our favorites) and went down under two of the bridges. Really cool hikes. All five of the National parks are immensely different and very special in their own ways.

[vermilye]

You mentioned photography - in the Blanding / Natural Bridges area there are two great photo opportunities. House on Fire ruin is in the south fork of Mule Canyon on UT95. You have to hit it at the right time of day to get the "fire" color - 10:45AM worked for me:


Another ruin that is a bit more difficult to get to is Fallen Roof Ruin. The canyon is off Cigarette Springs Road, which is about 15 miles south of the UT95/UT 261 intersection.

[4runnerguy]

If you have the time:

Zion - 4 to 5 days. You might not get to hike Zion Narrows in the spring due to high runoff. Check with the visitors center. Check out Watchman CG in the park. Not FHU but has electrical hookups and a dump station. Right on the Virgin "River". Walk to the visitors center to pick up the shuttle into the canyon. Easy to return to the RV midday to see to the dogs. Lots of great hiking there.

Bryce - Two full days would generally satisfy us. We do a couple of loops down into the canyon, utilizing the shuttle system so we don't have to go back to the same trailhead. No hookups at the NPS CG's in the park, but high enough elevation and plenty of shade to keep the RV cool all day.

Capitol Reef - One could spend a lot of time hiking this park. Spring is an ideal time as there is little shade on many of the trails. If you don't have a toad, you might decide not to try to get to some of the trailheads, as some are miles down graded, often dusty roads.

Moab - Great hiking in Arches. One can easily spend four or five days. BE WARNED: MANY OF THE ROADS IN ARCHES NP WILL BE UNDER CONSTRUCTION BEGINNING MARCH 1, 2017. The CG itself will be closed all summer, and various trailheads will be closed from time to time. You'll have to plan your itinerary there as you get close to that time to see what impacts there are. Not as much hiking in Canyonlands. Some shorter hikes and some walks out to viewpoints. Maybe rent a jeep for a day and do the White Rim Trail. And check out some of the trails on BLM land. Dogs are allowed on most of them. Negro Bill Canyon a couple of miles up UT 128 comes to mind. Fisher Towers also. If you day trip down to the Needles district, there are some longer trails that are interesting, such as Confluence Overlook. The Joint Trail is also interesting. This might be another place to take a rental jeep to shorten some of the hikes.

Blanding - At Natural Bridges, take the hike down into the canyon to walk under the bridges. You can exit and take a trail across the top back to the vehicle. Some ruins and an interesting panel of red hands down in the bottom. While in this area, also check out Cedar Mesa. There's a visitors center part way down UT 261. Some hikes to ruins in this area, but for most, you need a pass. If you really get into hiking the trails in the Cedar Mesa area, one can spend a week between there and Natural Bridges. One can get to Hovenweep from this area also. Watch for the little gnats there that seem to love Deet based insect repellents. We had more luck with citronella based products.

I would relocate to visit Mesa Verde. Too far from Blanding for a day trip. Don't miss the Anasazi Heritage Center near Dolores, CO. They can direct you to other, lesser known ruins. Try the Sand Canyon hike up McElmo Canyon out of Cortez. The Anasazi Center will have info on how to get there. Between Mesa Verde and these other sites, I'd plan five days. Take several of the guided hikes in MVNP.

[cruiserjs]

Oh Lauren (LOL) - neighbors will NOT appreciate yapping dogs left in the RV!! But I know what you meant!!
Really folks - find a place to leave your dogs while you travel. You will have a much more relaxed time!
Dogs/pets/children left in a vehicle in warm weather will get you in legal trouble in most jurisdictions!!

[Thunder_Mountai]

Since Blanding is on your itinerary, be sure to stay at Blue Mountain RV Park. The grounds keeper/handy man is an old canyon rat that knows that country like the back of his hand. We've been hiking the Grand Gulch Primitive Area, Comb Ridge and Cedar Mesa area using Blue Mountain as a base camp since 2003. We must have stayed there something like close to 90 days. He knows where all the best Anasazi Cliff dwelling are. Sometimes we just hike the canyon rims rather than descending into the canyons.

[Kaz]

Thank you everyone! These comments are all very helpful. I knew that somewhere between "2 days is too short" and "a lifetime isn't enough" there'd be a duration for each park that would let us make see some of the best aspects of each park. I've tabulated these comments and feel like a plan is starting to come together. As to the question about how many times we may be able to go back after this trip, who knows? God willing we'll be back again, but I'm planning as if this may the only time. Which makes all of these comments doubly helpful.

I neglected to mention that Blanding is on our itinerary for Natural Bridges and Hovenweep, as is Mesa Verde (we've been there before) and the Grand Canyon. And we're visiting family in California, and seeing south Texas on the way out, and getting abducted by aliens in Roswell on the way back, and so on. We did the northwest version of this trip last summer and it took us 2-1/2 months. I haven't mapped out this whole trip yet, but it wouldn't surprise me if it took a similar amount of time.

Again, thanks very much. I appreciate everyone taking the time to share their wisdom.

Skip

On edit: My comment about the dogs was mostly in jest. We leave the Weather Channel or Cartoon Network on for them while we're gone (they hate CNN and Fox News), which gives them something to do and keeps them from yapping. We always check with our neighbors when we get back and we've never gotten any indication that the neighbors heard even a bark from the camper. But if that doesn't work, we'll just have them put to sleep. :W

[Thunder_Mountai]

OLYLEN wrote:
I also agree with Thunder. But I would set aside a week at each for weather, it can be cold, windy and maybe snow. Bryce is at 10000 feet so prepare for some cold until late spring. With a week for each you can have a couple alternates if you get done early at one or two places. There are so many places to see within a couple hundred miles.

LEN

I was trying to keep it "simple" by not mentioning spring weather in Utah. March is usually windy and unsettled until the end of the month. April into early May is our preferred spring trip to Utah.

[OLYLEN]

I also agree with Thunder. But I would set aside a week at each for weather, it can be cold, windy and maybe snow. Bryce is at 10000 feet so prepare for some cold until late spring. With a week for each you can have a couple alternates if you get done early at one or two places. There are so many places to see within a couple hundred miles.

LEN

[2gypsies1]

How often do you think you'd do this trip?

I'd suggest at least 3 days at each spot but we'd do at least a week, especially if you're interested in hiking and photography.

You'd have a better, relaxed time if you could leave the dogs at home. They will definitely cut into your hiking experiences if you have to rush back to them. Plus, if, indeed, they're yappy, they won't be appreciated in the campgrounds.

[Corky12]

Utah's parks could take up the rest of your life. We have been there 7 times in the past 10 years for anywhere from 4 days to 7 weeks and would go back again in a heartbeat. Three or 4 days in each of the parks you mentioned will give you a taste but there is so much to see in that area you will want to come back. The dogs may present a problem. These parks are vast and popping back to check up on the yappers is not going to be practical. It can get very warm even in March so that will have to be taken into account when leaving them. Plan for as much time as possible and enjoy your trip.

[Lauren]

I agree with Thunder Mountains last two posts.

I was mentioning it from a time consuming standpoint. And, looking at OP post, they want to go back and forth to the dogs, etc. Which, if they really are yappy, the neighbors would greatly appreciate!

[Thunder_Mountai]

I forgot to mention that if you go to Blanding to bag Natural Bridges, you can also day trip Mesa Verde, Monument Valley, Valley of the Gods and Hovenweep.