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Question on Multiple 12V Battery Connections

TucsonJim
Explorer
Explorer
I have multiple connections I'm trying to make on my positive battery terminal. If I include the two connections the RV manufacturer made, the solar connections, inverter connections, and possibly others, the available real estate is getting very tight. I'd like to run one connection from the battery to something like a 12V buss line, but can't seem to find a 12V buss that can handle heavy gauge wire that is needed for some of these connections. Does anybody have a tidy solution?

Thanks,

Jim
2016 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4
2017 Grand Design Reflection 297RSTS
2013 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4 (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)
2014 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)
29 REPLIES 29

hondochica
Explorer
Explorer
Great post! I was just contemplating this issue - I have too many things stacked on my batteries!

Q: So I am assuming you are direct wiring various things to the house batteries with these setups? yes? How do you handle the fuse? I have read elsewhere that both + and - wires need an inline fuse? I have a couple in-line fuses, bought at sLowes or Home Despot . . but the wire is soooo much smaller than the other wire I'm using - I fear this is not correct. Wish I had the kind of space you all have!! I have a small - 2 battery box and that's it! (01 Rialta) - really tough to run wires to the batteries - neatly!


Can anyone recommend a website with detailed instructions about direct wiring to batteries??

@rjxj: (hope this gets to you); I see you have a Tri-metric solar charger. How does your set-up work with the shunt so you get proper readings on your monitor??

So much to learn . . .

Kelly
01 Rialta
currently birding my way across SE AZ

TucsonJim
Explorer
Explorer
rjxj wrote:
I used the copper pipe method with brass bolts and a smooth piece of white plastic lumber. I had the anl fuses and all of this stuff on hand so why not use it. I used a Brother Ptouch label maker. The pvc lumber has a wood grain side and a smooth side. It's excellent to use on various projects, finishes like steel with the ease of wood but no splits, splinters or warping or cracks like plexiglass.





That is a great looking set up! Nice job!
2016 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4
2017 Grand Design Reflection 297RSTS
2013 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4 (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)
2014 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)

4X4Dodger
Explorer II
Explorer II
Calkidd wrote:
You can use the single post like this....



I know you meant well but this set up is a recipe for disaster or fire.

If the ONE nut comes loose you would have a very bad situation.

The positive cables should be run to a bus bar with each it's own post, secondly they should be fused at about 50 amps.

The post with the Fisheries Supply link is the right way to do this kind of thing...safely and professionally.

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
I used the copper pipe method with brass bolts and a smooth piece of white plastic lumber. I had the anl fuses and all of this stuff on hand so why not use it. I used a Brother Ptouch label maker. The pvc lumber has a wood grain side and a smooth side. It's excellent to use on various projects, finishes like steel with the ease of wood but no splits, splinters or warping or cracks like plexiglass.



SCClockDr
Explorer
Explorer
Like what DrewE said with a twist.

George & Cathy
08 Titanium 28E33SA, XM, Honda EU 3000is, Trimetric, RotoChocks, LP Reg. Mod, 2 Gal Accum., WiFiRanger GO2/Mobile
04 Ram 3500 5.9 DRW, PAC PRXB E/B, 4" MBRP SS Exhaust, Gauges, Aux Tank/box, BrakeSmart.
ETCS (ss) USN Ret

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I too use the BLUE SEA Terminal blocks (AMAZON) which accepts the same ring terminals used in most RV Battery setups... These also come with a plastic cover that might be needed for your POSTIVE Battery connections in tight places...

These are used alot around multiple RV battery installs...



Using Terminal blocks for multiple connections to different 12VDc loads is a neat way to accomplish routing problems and cleaning up masses of 12VDc cables. I am one that does not like to see more than two ring terminals per connection especially when higher DC currents are involved...

I would be careful however not to introduce different charging length paths from your charging source when feeding multiple batteries. You want each battey in your battery bank to use the same charging path lengths to insure each battery in the bank gets the same charging current when being charged. Otherwise some batteries will charge differently than the others which may result in poor performance and eventually do harm to the battery. This is very important for getting long life out of your battery bank.

Just some of my thoughts
Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Copper water pipe squashed flat and drilled appropriately is inexpensive and effective; the copper used is quite pure. Having a large main fuse between the battery and the bus bar is a good idea.

TucsonJim
Explorer
Explorer
OP here. Thanks for all the suggestions. It looks like there are several viable solutions. If anyone else has a preferred method, please don't hesitate to post it.

Jim
2016 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4
2017 Grand Design Reflection 297RSTS
2013 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4 (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)
2014 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)

westend
Explorer
Explorer
I used copper bar stock, drilled and tapped 1/4" holes in them. You would need a bar of 1/4" thick to handle loads up to 200 amps.

Edit: Let me look around here and see if I can find a piece of copper bar. If I can, I'll drill and tap one for you. I'm going to assume you'll need one 5/16" through hole to attach to a battery terminal.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Calkidd
Explorer
Explorer
You can use the single post like this....

woody0331
Explorer
Explorer
Is something like this what your looking for?
https://west.nedco.ca/lug-mechanical/burndy/bibd2-04mt/bibd2-04mt-14-2-0-insul-tap-conn/product/BURBIBD204MT
These can be found at your local electrical supply house.

Or google insultap for other sizes.

-Oz-
Explorer
Explorer
I use one of these Single stud junction blocks.

I actually use 3 of them in my setup. 2 are used to combine the solar panel inputs in parallel and then one is used in a weatherproof box near the battery for exactly what you are talking about. All the inputs/outputs go to it and then it goes to the battery.

If you want to see how I used them/them in action here is my solar install which features pictures of them.
Dan
RV: 2013 Shadow Cruiser S185 FBR
My ~200W Portable and Fixed Solar System

agesilaus
Explorer III
Explorer III
Something like this might work: Amazon

Looks like you might have to drill some holes for larger bolts to accommodate larger cable. But the bar is .25 thick
Arctic Fox 25Y Travel Trailer
2018 RAM 2500 6.7L 4WD shortbed
Straightline dual cam hitch
400W Solar with Victron controller
Superbumper

Nicholsfamily05
Explorer
Explorer
Go to your local electical store and they should be able to help you out. No Lowes or Home Depot but a real electrical store.
2016 Ram 3500 4x4 Big Horn Crew Cab, SRW. Cummins Turbo Diesel Automatic 68RFE Trans
50 gallon diesel Transfer Flow tank with the Traxx 3 system.
2017 Sierra FLIK 5th Wheel
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