Switching out 110/120 volt wall outlet in RV

[Jackutah]

I have a couple 110 outlets in my RV .. 1993 itasca ... That I get good voltage with meter when wiggle around in slots... But when something plugged in ..nothing runs... So I figure the contacts are worn inside so contact is not proper...... So I was going to buy replacement outlets from my local Home Depot and switch them out...
Is there a problem with this.. Do I need a special type outlet or are they just the same as a home outlet

[mrekim]

myredracer wrote:
If someone is breaking them, there's always the chance of operator error too.

I can see the operating instructions for these now.

Unplugging from the outlet.

1) Ensure that you are wearing rubber sole shoes and are not standing on a wet surface.

2) Place the rubber insulating glove on your non/dominant hand.

3) Grasp the plug, being careful to not shake or move it.

4) With the insulated glove, cup the plug creating an opposing force all around the the plug.Pull the plug out.

NOTE: In order to not break the outlet you must exert the same force with the cupped hand that you use for pulling. Too much force on the cupped hand will cause the outlet plate to flex and break. Not enough force will cause the outlet plate to flex and break.

If you do not have the special insulating gloves (not supplied with device) then you must turn off the breaker for the outlet you intend to unplug from and ensure there is no power to the outlet.



Plugging into the outlet:
1) Turn breaker off to outlet

2) Remove device from wall. There are two screws, cross your fingers that the installer left the recommended 12" service loop.

3) Place you hand behind device (for extra safety use the removal insulating glove)

4) Insert plug, ensuring the device is supported on the opposite side. Avoid applying pressure to the mounting plate.

5) Screw outlet back into wall

6) Turn breaker on

Due to the fantastic design of these units you risk electrical shock and possibly death if you do not follow these instructions.

[Hornnumb2]

You can use a shallow drywall box and new receptacle, no problem. The only problem I have ran into is the drywall tabs that you tighten are not made for that thin paneling. you can add some scrap behind the panel or notch the box so they will pull up tighter.

[myredracer]

That's what happens at 3 am. Here is the correct Hubbell Wirecon SCD link. (Proof tested and it is correct. :))

I agree that some of these don't have the strongest of plastic in them. In fact I broke one last week that came as OEM in our TT. I hardly touched it and it was broken. Could have been like that already though. If someone is breaking them, there's always the chance of operator error too.

The Pass & Seymour ones are good also. I wouldn't trust any of the off-shore unknown brand ones for plastic quality. If you happen to come across one that doesn't have CSA marked on it, throw it away.

Bobbo wrote:

myredracer wrote:
Info. on the Hubbel Wirecon SCD is here.

Your link pulls up a picture of a jack stand.

[Bobbo]

myredracer wrote:
Info. on the Hubbel Wirecon SCD is here.

Your link pulls up a picture of a jack stand.

[mrekim]

The problem with the above receptacles is that they are cheap and thin and they break at the mounting screws. Does anyone make one with a metal plate on the front that won't break under the stress of inserting and removing a 3 prong plug?

[myredracer]

Replacement receptacles should be the same SCD type (SCD = self contained device) that was originally used. They have a plastic cover on the rear of them that covers exposed wiring. An outlet box is not required with these. They are designed to be installed in the thin exterior walls of an RV (typically around 1.5" thick).

As an EE, I can say that there is nothing inferior or cheap about an SCD receptacle in any way. They are specifically designed and CSA approved for use in RVs and mobile homes. Info. on the Hubbel Wirecon SCD is here. The trick to installing an SCD is properly pushing the wires onto the IDC connectors. There is a special tool for this but it can be done by carefully pushing the wires in place with pliers or screwdriver. I've seen a few terrible SCD receptacle installations by an RV manufacturer with wires barely hanging on.

Standard residential receptacles can be used in interior walls or cabinets where there is sufficient depth for an outlet box. There is really no need to do this though unless you need the volume inside a box for splicing wires.

RV SCD receptacles (and switches) can be purchased at any RV vendor or online from many different sources. I would get a brand with a good industry reputation like Hubbell. Dyers for example, has one that is branded "Diamond". You can buy some residential receptacles that are worse quality than an RV SCD type... They all must meet CSA requirements and have a CSA marking on them though.

[tenbear]

I have not replaced any of the original outlets but I have installed several new outlets. I used household outlets in shallow boxes where there was not much space. Although the OEM outlets have performed well, I just trust the household outlets more.

[Gdetrailer]

christopherglenn wrote:
No, they are RV outlets. Most (all?) home depot outlets are intended to be put in a box, RV outlets are direct wired, and have covers - covering the wires and connections. They are also designed to be mounted directly to the wall covering. Stick and brick outlets screw top and bottom into the mounting box.
Pull one before going to the store and look at it. I have never seen them at HD / Lowes / ACE / Orchard Supply / ETC..

No, not ALL RVs are built using the Mobile Home/RV "self contained" receptacles which look like THIS

My 1984 Komfort used standard household receptacles but used low profile work boxes (these boxes are thin in depth but are wider to give correct amount of room for wire).

IF the RV does have self contained receptacles there may not be enough slack in the wire to allow for change over to a low profile work box and normal receptacle. If that is the case then OP would have to use the same type of self contained replacement receptacle which can be bought at any RV dealer or mobile home dealer.

[Fritz_H]

I was surprised to see how flimsy the stock outlets are in my RV. I installed one of these in the kitchen area and was fortunate there was room, but it was tight. Mine was in the bottom of a kitchen cabinet. An exterior wall would not have been deep enough for a household type outlet. Looks like the RV outlets are designed for very light use and speedy installation.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C?colid=1NYA4H1EJUQ14&coliid=I171FUS73NOQCV&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

[DrewE]

If you have access and clearance in back of the outlets (if they're in a cabinet, say), you might be able to retrofit a box and a standard household outlet. A good (e.g. spec-grade) household outlet is likely going to be higher quality than RV outlets, and the screw terminations are IMHO superior to the insulation piercing ones that RV outlets generally use. Best are the screw clamp ones with a sort of plate under the screw, IMHO.

If you decide to do this, check that you have sufficient slack in the 120V wires.

[riven1950]

http://www.lowes.com/pd_239510-53911-B117RSWR___?productId=50425678&pl=1&Ntt=old+work+electrical+box...

Try one of these, only 2" deep vs normal box. It is what I used in TT with thin walls. there are a couple of styles. Lowes carries some in stock.

[Big_Katuna]

And they are thinner too. Can buy on EBay and Amazon.

[christopherglen]

No, they are RV outlets. Most (all?) home depot outlets are intended to be put in a box, RV outlets are direct wired, and have covers - covering the wires and connections. They are also designed to be mounted directly to the wall covering. Stick and brick outlets screw top and bottom into the mounting box.
Pull one before going to the store and look at it. I have never seen them at HD / Lowes / ACE / Orchard Supply / ETC..