Maiden Voyage with new Voltage --- and Brake Issues

[DR_Buck]

Survived the weekend with the new Voltage toyhauler, despite my brake issues. I haven't completely confirmed it yet but it appears my high $$$ MAX BRAKE brake controller went belly up after 8 years.

After leaving home Friday evening at some point into the first 15 miles into my 50 mile trip the controller set the trailer brakes into a parking brake mode. I thought I was just having issues pulling up hill. Then a car pulled up next to me and yelled out the window that I had brake issues. So I pulled over the first chance I had to check. All 4 trailer wheels were hot and one had the brake drum glowing red! After messing with the controller and "Googling" the owner’s manual I was able to figure out it was in the parking brake mode and get it back to normal. Then I drove slowly to a large empty parking lot about 5 miles down the road where I got out and inspected things. The wheels were cooling down and the brakes seemed to work so I continued up over the mountain. I used low gear going down the back side and tried to minimize using the brakes after I noticed the controller indicating excess brake current. We made it to the campground at the bottom of the mountain and got set up OK.

Saturday morning I unloaded the Can Am Spyder (which I wasn't going to take on this 1st trip) and took a ride out to Lowes so I could buy a multimeter to troubleshoot the brake issue. After a nice 100 mile ride we got back to the campground near dinner time so the brake trouble shooting had to wait until Sunday morning because it was getting cold.

I spent a portion of Saturday night searching the web for tech info on my controller, trailer brake system, and wiring.

Fast forward to Sunday…. I hooked up the truck to the trailer and measured brake current and voltage. I kept getting intermittent and changing readings. I ended up tearing the dash out of my truck so I could get to the back of my controller to reset it. After resetting and calibrating the MAX BRAKE controller I was able to get consistent readings and with help of the multimeter I determined that one of the Voltage’s electromagnets was shorted. I cut the power lead to that brake and the braking current came into line so we headed home.

Then part way down the mountain the brake controller started acting up and sometimes I had brakes on the trailer and sometimes I didn't. Fortunately we made it home without incident.

Later this week I'll hook the controller to one of my other trailers to see if it acts up. I may end up buying a new one just to be on the safe side anyway. I also need to pull all 4 wheels off the Voltage to assess the damage. Minimum I suspect I will need to replace brake shoes, electromagnets and at least one drum. Again, I may just replace them all to be safe.

[DR_Buck]

ksss wrote:
How do you like your Spyder? Dam those things are cool! I searched their website the other day. Which model do you have?

I love the Spyder. I hadn't ridden in close to 40 years and saw them advertised on TV and just had to have one. 🙂 We got the RT Limited model. It's a 2012 model. I've had it just over a year and have spent a fortune on modifications and after market upgrades. 🙂

Lots of information and pictures of them on Spyder Lovers Web Site

This link is pictures and descriptions of what I've done to mine. DR Buck's Spyder

[ksss]

How do you like your Spyder? Dam those things are cool! I searched their website the other day. Which model do you have?

[DR_Buck]

Finished changing all the brake assemblies. I went ahead and upgraded to self adjusters. All of the original brake pads and electro-magnets were fried! One of them came completly apart and destroyed the drum. Three of the drums were undamaged so I only had to replace the one bad one. I did replace all of the seals though just in case of heat damage.

I also got a new Maxx Brake controller that I will install later this week. I did try and contact Maxx Brake to ask questions about the failed unit but they did not answer my email or phone calls. If the old controller hadn't worked so well for 8 years I wouldn't have bought another Maxx Brake.

[joebedford]

I ran mine at 6 for quite a while, now 6.5 as the brakes have worn. I use the manual override if I have to make a quick stop. Trailer brakes are very effective but don't lock at speed.

[BobWanderer]

nayther wrote:
Bob and Randy what gain are you running your GMC integral controller at?

Usually 6 to 6.5 works well on the hwy.
If I do a lot of around town, I will turn it down.

[nayther]

Bob and Randy what gain are you running your GMC integral controller at?

[BoonHauler]

Have you called the folks at MaxBrake to see what they have to say?

[randyrees]

BobWanderer wrote:
My 10K T H brakes work well enough to stop both the T V and T H, thats with stock brakes and factory GM controller. I reached over and pushed the controller lever to make sure the brakes were working and was very surprised at the outcome.

I have an Eclipes Attitude (loaded heavy with a SXS) that I pull with a GM Sierra and I had the same reaction as you the first time I tried the trailer brake controller...maybe it's because it's a GMC!!!!

R Rees

[M-1028]

Mmaxed wrote:
In my experience no electric brake will lock up the wheels on a heavy trailer on pavement when you are moving at a good clip.

Same here, I've pulled a LOT of different trailers. Only electric brakes that worked good where dexter 8K's with the big drums, far from locking up if the trailer was loaded.

Only brakes I've been around that will lock up tires on demand are electric over hydraulic, I can lock up all 6 on my toy hauler at 22K. Also had a 40 ft gooseneck that would put you through the windshield.

Every hot shot I know will not run electric brakes, so that says something

[BobWanderer]

My 10K T H brakes work well enough to stop both the T V and T H, thats with stock brakes and factory GM controller. I reached over and pushed the controller lever to make sure the brakes were working and was very surprised at the outcome.

[mapguy]

Mmaxed wrote:
In my experience no electric brake will lock up the wheels on a heavy trailer on pavement when you are moving at a good clip.

If installed properly and adjusted properly they have the potential to skid at highway speeds.

Most systems are installed with minimal sized wiring and poor connections that compromise performance potential. Brake ajustment has a huge impact, too. Most people adjust electric trailer brakes like they did on their 1960's car/trucks -this is not nearly tight enough to operate properly -both speed and intensity, due to the way electric trailer brakes use magnet pull and inertia to energize.

[64thunderbolt]

Mmaxed wrote:
In my experience no electric brake will lock up the wheels on a heavy trailer on pavement when you are moving at a good clip.

My Rvision Bayhauler would lock them @ 75 mph @ was a little over 13K loaded.

[DR_Buck]

rrupert wrote:
This may be a long shot, but did you check the emergency breakaway switch to make sure it isn't messed up in some way?

Not possible. The Max Brake gives you a message on the screen that tells you what is happening. Mine had no display at all, which is a fault in it's self as the screen should only be blank if the trailer is not connected. Then when the screen did light up, the message said "Parking Brake Set". I'm 99% sure the controller is toast!

[BobWanderer]

rrupert wrote:
This may be a long shot, but did you check the emergency breakaway switch to make sure it isn't messed up in some way?

A very good possibility