cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

rv garage

bbaker2001
Explorer
Explorer
๐Ÿ™‚
we finally got approval to build rv garage and workshop on property
contractor asked what I would like on walls.
sheetrock or OSB
he said he liked osb because I could nail to it.
isnt osb sort of fire retardnent also
The sheetrock in shop now is all beat up
thanks
BB from California
2015 Ram 3500
2001 Cardinal
best friend is my wife ๐Ÿ™‚
34 REPLIES 34

shadows4
Explorer III
Explorer III
Would love to see a picture if possible. Congrats on the new building.
2016 4X4 F350,CC,SB,Lariat,6.7L diesel,
2015 Coachmen Chapparal 324 TSRK
B&W Patriot 16K hitch.

bbaker2001
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks all
Well the house is almost done as is the rv shed.
Wow it is tall. We only had to sheetrock the wall that was connected to the house, the rest is osb
Primed and painted. Will take more than 1 coat.
BB from California
2015 Ram 3500
2001 Cardinal
best friend is my wife ๐Ÿ™‚

TJMarc
Explorer
Explorer
gdavidg wrote:


...LP (louisiana pacific) has an OSB panel that is fire rated called Flame Block. ...


One think to keep in mind is listed proprietary products are very specific regarding their installation. Not saying this one is good or bad...just saying the devil is in the details. Hate for someone to specifying a product then get into the field and then realize what's actually involved to achieve what they need.
2017 Ram 3500 DRW/6.7 CTD/AISIN/3.73
2013 AF 811
2004 Jeep TJ (slightly modded)
18' PJ Buggy Hauler

gdavidg
Explorer
Explorer
I would check with the building department and see if the wall is required to be fire rated. If it is a separate structure from the house it likely does not need to be FR. But a check to them will settle the issue. Or perhaps your contractor knows.Sent 40 years as a structural engineer doing building structures. One of our engineers went into sales for LP and he showed our company their new product.

LP (louisiana pacific) has an OSB panel that is fire rated called Flame Block.

if it has to be fire rated you could go with Flame Block, sheet rock by itself, or OSB over sheet rock.

If not required to be FR I would go with OSB or plywood painted a bright white.

Good luck with your project. I am envious of all who can store their RV at home.


http://lpcorp.com/products/panels/lp-flameblock-fire-rated-osb-sheathing/

Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here is what i learned the hard way on lighting. Don't get in a hurry and move all the stuff back into its place after dry walling or putting up OSB.

I did and have never gotten around to yanking all the stuff back out and getting some paint on the OSB.

kinda like a cave in there.

Tom_Diane
Explorer
Explorer
Lots of votes for OSB. Just my opinion but when I built my wood shop in 2004, I went with drywall.its dirty now but its been up there a few years now and holding well. I didnt tape anything or paint anything I could make notes on it while talking with customers on the phone. My neighbor had a wood shop and he used OSB but his shop was an old pole building. It looked good but I liked the finished look of the drywall. I dont like to drive nails into walls and prefer shelving that I can screw right to the studs. I use whats called TUFF TRACK and can be bought at big box stores and is easy to install and its adjustable with out putting a lot of holes in the structure. Had I built a pole barn I may have went with the OSB and the possibility of covering it with drywall later! I like the dry wall but its whatever is best for your eyes and as long as it shelters the RV as planned.

TJMarc
Explorer
Explorer
Figured I reply because I saw a few incorrect terms usage of terms.

Firewall: You generally will never see a firewall in single/two family dwellings (SFR). The intent of a firewall from a fire/life-safety perspective is to be able to treat the two buildings as separate buildings. (i.e. overly simplistic version...one side burns down and the other remains) So be carful if you are talking to a contractor because if you ask for a firewall and the contractor wants to take advantage of the situation...you will get a safer structure and a substantially lighter wallet.

Fire Retardant and Fire Resistant/Resistive/Protective are not the same. Fire Retardant generally means it's just treated to slow the rate in which it burns. Fire Resistant means it prevents the passage of heat and flame.

Also, the need for fire resistance is determined by a number of things but in SFR generally you are concerned with protecting the occupants from a fire in higher risk non-living spaces (i.e. garage) and protecting you from your neighbors and your neighbors from you. Thus, in an attached garage situation you will see gypsum board, along with a solid (or rated) self closing door between the garage and the dwelling. For a detached garage built against the property line situation you will see fire resistant construction (1 hr) and no openings along the property line. NFPA has already been mentioned, another are the icodes https://codes.iccsafe.org/public/ and would be the International Residential Code for SFR.

Also, just because it's on the approved drawings doesn't always mean it's correct. Jurisdictions usually don't have the time/resources to go thru the drawings to the level of detail it seems people assume they do. Generally they are doing a cursory review to check to see if your design professional is doing their job and comment of the obvious errors. A common error designers/builders make is assume since the City didn't catch it and approved the drawings...then it must be right.

Well enough of my rambling...now what would I do. If I was building a garage for myself I'd go gypsum board and in addition to the required fire blocking (which I'd request be at constant height) I'd also specify two (maybe even three in some places) lines of 2x flat blocking at two heights around my garage. Since I often do a bit of welding/cutting/grinding, being able to control/minimize fire is a primary concern. This would give me known anchorage points through my garage. Of course I don't have the money or the land for an RV garage...so I can only dream.
2017 Ram 3500 DRW/6.7 CTD/AISIN/3.73
2013 AF 811
2004 Jeep TJ (slightly modded)
18' PJ Buggy Hauler

kilbearcamper
Explorer
Explorer
Another suggestion would be plywood painted with fire proof paint, although the paint is $$.
FYI half inch drywall has a 30min fire rating and 5/8th. has a 45 min. rating.
Travel Time; Killbear 35mins.
Grundy 1hour
Algonguin West gate 1hr. 45mins.

avvidclif1
Explorer
Explorer
The last "shop" not rv storage I built (20x30 due to limited space) I used sheetrock sideways which gave a 4' tall wall and then used 1/4 pegboard above that to go to the ceiling. I did that on 3 walls. Needless to say it was insulated before the interior walls were put up. I also put an outlet box every 4' around the 3 walls. 4 boxes per 20a breaker. I never wanted for hanging places or outlets. It had it's own 100A service with breakers for a 50A welder and a 220v 20A air compressor. Also had a 30A rv plug on the outside wall.

Food for thought.
Clif & Millie
2009 Ford F350 SRW CC Lariat 6.4 Diesel
2015 Heartland Cyclone HD CY3418 Toy Hauler

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
I assume this is a detached structure, so fire resistance should not be an issue.

Mine is a garage sized shop, not a RV sized barn, but I used T1-11 8" OC exterior siding on the interior walls. I think it looks nicer than OSB or plain plywood. Water proof if you ever get any inside, and very durable. Since it is lapped at the joints, it is easy to remove a sheet to add utilities in the wall cavities. I like the wood tone color, but could be painted if that's your thing.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

Hammerboy
Explorer
Explorer
Another vote for osb. I have a separate barn that has the rv garage and a separate workshop. In the workshop (heated with a hotdog furnace) I sheeted iy entirely with osb. being the workshop I am always hanging stuff on the walls, don't have to worry where to hang anything. I also primed with Kilz before painting. One thing I did is I put an 1/8" bevel all around the sheets with a router prior to putting the sheets up. This dresses it up a bit especially because you can't get all the joints perfectly flush. The bevel also creates a perfect and easy way to caulk the joints to make it air tight.

Dan
2019 Chevy crew LTZ 2500 HD Duramax
2017 Wildcat 29rlx fifth wheel

happycamper002
Explorer
Explorer
Check out the NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) Code Book.

A non-profit organization whose provisions are adapted in to local Building and Safety department of a particular city.

No need to hassle. You can read all the provisions but can't copy them.

www.NFPA.org.

wilber1
Explorer
Explorer
Drywall in the brightest white paint I can find and lots of lights. Fire resistant and I hate working in a dark shop.
"Never trust a man who has not a single redeeming vice" WSC

2011 RAM 3500 SRW
2015 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS

Beverley_Ken
Explorer
Explorer
"I am on septic, so debating on running sewer line to inside or on outside to dump before I put he 5er away. comments on in or out"

If you do it now, costs will be minimal, compared to later, when you would have to cut through finished floor (concrete?), and foundation wall.

Ken
2006 Winnebago Outlook 29B E-450.
2012 Honda CR-V AWD
Blue Ox Aventa LX tow bar and Brake Buddy Vantage.