Wheel/Brake/Bearing Question

[Poppy_s_5th_Whe]

Hi All,

I was having some poor braking on our last trip so, after scolding myself for failing to adjust the brakes or lube the bearings since we got the trailer (probably 12,000 miles ago) I decided to adjust the brakes and lube the bearings (I have the E-Z Lube bearings).

I got the trailer jacked and I noticed a lot of play in the wheel. By play I mean that if you have your hands at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock you can get a considerable amount of wobble out of the wheel. I tried both wheels on the drivers side and they both had play.

I went ahead and lubed the rear wheel first and it took a whole 12.5 oz tube before I got fresh lube coming out. I had hoped that might solve my problem but, of course, no such luck.

I went ahead and adjusted the brakes on both DS wheels but didn't lube the second wheel yet until I find out what my problem is. OR, if it is normal on a trailer to have that much play.

So my questions are
1.) is there normally some play in the wheel on trailers? (I suspect not)
2.) if not, do you think my problem is that I need entirely new bearings? (I suspect so)

I race a corvette and if my wheel has play like that, I need to replace the whole hub assembly as they do not have serviceable bearings.

[fj12ryder]

Well there is a difference between "loose bearings" and bearings that are set to their correct specifications.

However that description posted by Jimlin looks to be about right. The only part I didn't care for was the lack of proper torque specs: "just snug" is hardly an exact measurement. 🙂

FWIW the procedure to set the preload on the front hub bearings on my Dodge 1-ton are very similar to those posted. The exception being that they specify 18 in.lbs. instead of "just snug". 🙂

[Allworth]

Obviously Scott is smarter than all the Engineers at Dexter put together!

[ScottG]

I could not disagree more with the above statement about bearings needing to be lose. Lose bearings ride on just a few of the pins instead of evenly dispersing the load to all the surfaces. This causes premature wear on all the surfaces.

If you are at all inclined to believe that bearings should be lose then please do more research.

[JIMNLIN]

A small amount of bearing play is normal and required on a trailers axles. In fact bearing will last longer with a small bit of play. Bearings should never be tight.

This from Dexter on "bearing adjustment and play".

Bearing Adjustment and Hub Replacement
if the hub has been removed or bearing adjustment is required, the following adjustment procedure must be allowed:
1. After placing the hub, bearings, washers, and spindle nut back on the axle spindle in reverse order as detailed in the previous section on hub removal, rotate the hub assembly slowly while tightening the spindle nut to approximately 50 lbs.{t (12" wrench or pliers with full hand force).
2. Then loosen the spindle nut to remove the torque. Do not rotate the hub.
3. Finger tighten the spindle nut until just snug.
4. Back the spindle nut out slightly until the first castellation lines up with the cotter key hole and insert the cotter pin (or locking tang in the case
of E-Z Lube TM).
5. Bend over the cotter pin legs to secure the nut (or locking tang in the case ol E-Z Lube TM).
6. Nut should be free to move with only restraint being the cotter pin (or locking tang).

And proper bearing end play;

Nev-R-Lube Bearing End Play inspection.
The following lists the maximum axial end play for each of the sizes of, Nev-R-Lube bearings and the amount of tilt that can be expected, Since there are a large number of wheel and tire combinations in use on trailers, the tilt is expressed in inches per inch. The movement as measured at the tire tread can be found by the following method:
Example: if the tilt value is shown as .003" per inch and the tire measures 30" in diameter, simply multiply .003' X 30' = .090" which is the total expected movement at the tires' outer diameter.

Bearing size End play resultant tilt value
35 MM .005" axial .003'7 per inch
42 MM .006" axial .005"/ per inch
50 MM .O08" axial .004"/ per inch

the above is a snipped copy and paste from Dexters "hubs/drums and bearing" PDF

[2-MTnesters]

Bull Rider wrote:
I think you need to pull the wheels off and LOOK and see what's going on with your bearings, and brakes, and the entire wheel assembly.

Bearings, brakes, etc. are just too important to leave to guessing. Plus the other components need to be checked.

X2

[Bull_Rider]

I think you need to pull the wheels off and LOOK and see what's going on with your bearings, and brakes, and the entire wheel assembly.

Bearings, brakes, etc. are just too important to leave to guessing. Plus the other components need to be checked.

Just sayin....

[MFL]

fj12ryder wrote:
They apparently put very little grease in these EZ-Lube hubs and it isn't unusual to have to use a lot of grease the first time you lube them up, which needless to say should have been a lot sooner than 12,000 miles. 🙂

And yes, you should raise the tire off the ground and spin it while lubing the bearing. Don't use a power grease gun and don't get in a big hurry. However yours doesn't sound too good.

This is correct, as the factory usually just greases the bearings enough to get by. My EZs needed a lot of slow easy pumps, before the hubs filled.

I can see the back side of the seals, using a piston light looking from the rear. There is several holes above, and to the side of brake adj hole. My seals have no leakage.

I also think the castle nuts may be loose, but best to have a look at the bearings/races after 12,000 miles.

Jerry

[Old-Biscuit]

Wheel wobble.....bearing castle nut is too loose
Greasing E-Z lube......should only take a few squeezes of a grease gun

Brake adjustment........wait until you have pulled ALL wheels/hubs and checked the bearings

Here is an article on bearings etc......LINK

[fj12ryder]

They apparently put very little grease in these EZ-Lube hubs and it isn't unusual to have to use a lot of grease the first time you lube them up, which needless to say should have been a lot sooner than 12,000 miles. 🙂

And yes, you should raise the tire off the ground and spin it while lubing the bearing. Don't use a power grease gun and don't get in a big hurry. However yours doesn't sound too good.

[jbcason]

If u used a whole tube of grease on one wheel the seal is leaking inside onto the brakes. Bearings need to be adjusted periodically. Doesn't mean they are worn out. Should pull , clean, and inspect every so often also.

[CKNSLS]

I would think bearings wouldn't wear out in 12,000 miles unless they were not adjusted correctly to begin with.

[shadoow]

ScottG wrote:
There should not be any free-play, in fact it should have some pre-load.
And EZ lubes grease the brakes as often as not.

At this point I would replace that particular set of bearings/races.

x2

[ScottG]

There should not be any free-play, in fact it should have some pre-load.
And EZ lubes grease the brakes as often as not.

At this point I would replace that particular set of bearings/races.

[MARKW8]

The bearings might now be worn but were likely loose from the beginning.

Mark

[2-MTnesters]

My opinion you have worn bearings. I would highly advise that you pull each wheel and inspect both inner and outer bearings and replace as necessary. I would also highly advise NOT using the EZ-lube system as its very easy to over grease and blow out the seal. If you do choose to continue using the EZ-lube system, you should rotate the wheel in the forward direction while pumping in the grease. This will help to evenly disperse the grease in the bearings.