General Winnebago mechanical questions

[weschaney]

Hi guys, new to the forum here. I purchased a 37ft 1997 Winnebago with a Ford 460 power plant recently and have been restoring it. Was curious if you guys wouldn't mind laying some knowledge on me, I have a few general questions. The generator is a gas oanan 6500. I got it running yesterday and let it run for about 45 min. Is the generator supposed to charge the house batterys? Just installed two new 6 volt batterys and they are drained down to about 10 volts now.

With the generator running the A/C came on, but it does not blow cold, do these units use freon?

I noticed after I park some gear oil leaks onto the inside of the right rear tire, I'm guessing is a bad axle seal. Anyone know what type of gear oil this rear takes? 80/90?

The check engine light is on, but I can't for the life of me find the OBDII port, anyone know its location?

Thank you, Wes

[D_E_Bishop]

Congrats, it can be pretty simple once you ask the correct questions and get some stellar answers. You fortunately came to a good source.

[weschaney]

Just wanted to update this thread. After letting the ac units run for some time they started to blow cold. I have since got the axel seal fixed, filled the diff with gl5 fluid, works great. learned how to set the fridge on LP mode. 0BD1 port was under dog house and check engine light was fixed with just a tune up (plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Thank you all for help!

[wvabeer]

If you have an axle seal leaking then your brake shoes are soaked with oil. replace those while you are in there.

[RLS7201]

J-Rooster wrote:
90 weight oil will be fine in the rear axle!

NO! Ford specified 75W140 Synthetic for a reason. That Dana 80 is operating at it's upper limitations. It needs the best lubrication it can get.

Richard

[CharlesinGA]

EEC IV connector is a very simple connector Dangling from the end of some wires most likely. There will also most likely be a single wire with a single female spade connection on the end of it. You will need a factory manual to decipher codes. Either a fancy code reader that counts the pulses for you, one that has a light that lets you count the pulses, or a simple analog volt/ohm meter that you can hook up to count pulses and convert these pulses into codes.

An OBD II code reader will NOT work on this vehicle.

At least you have the throttle body fuel injection. This is a very good system that Ford used for quite a while. My Dad's '84 LTD (small car) had a TBI EEC IV system and it was a mid year introduction from the earlier two barrel carb. Worked like a charm for the entire life of the car. They just added a high pressure fuel pump under the floor. Never did like having that pump exposed to road rash, etc, but it lasted nearly 300K mi.

I am basing the above on my familiarity with the EEC IV system in my '91 Ranger and one or two slightly later systems I have messed with. Its all basically the same, but Ford may have changed some of the details.

Charles

[fcooper]

My first motorhome was on the chassis you have. All above is good advice. I'd add that you need to learn about greasing the brake caliper slides and periodically changing the brake fluid. Without proper maintenance, that chassis has a history of sticking brake calipers.

If you have problems with handling on the road, a rear track bar does wonders for that chassis (after all front suspension is checked of course). I put one on mine and was amazed at the difference.

Good luck with your new coach.

Fred

[J-Rooster]

90 weight oil will be fine in the rear axle!

[weschaney]

I wanna thank everyone for the info!

just an update, i have found the obd1

The reason my batterys were not charging from the generator was because of two blown fuses in the converter.

Thanks again everyone!

[RLS7201]

weschaney wrote:
Is there a parts store you guys use specific to MH's?

Rock Auto Is a good place to shop for chassis parts. If you don't want to wait for Rock Auto, you can always get the part number there and go to a local.

Richard

[weschaney]

Thank you for the knowledge bishop, I'll be posting my progress with pictures shortly!

[D_E_Bishop]

As was said earlier, welcome to the forum and Class A motorhomes.

The first thing I would do is go on line to Winnebagoind.com and download the manuals that they have in their library.

Electrical, plumbing and anything else. I even found the parts brakedown for mine.

Parts diagrams are pretty good.

Look for a schematic for your Converter on line. Then you will know where to measure voltages and check condition of equipment.

If you don't have a DMM, Digital Multi Meter, buy one and learn our it works. Lots and lots of block diagrams regarding automatic transfer switches, converters and 12 vdc distribution panels.

If you are not comfortable with live circuits, learn how to turn off, open case and then turn on and use meter.

If there is a HFT near you, they give them away all the time when you make a purchase. Check them out on line and see what they stock, I like them better than Northern Hydraulic or tool or whatever it is, for a lot of tools.

Chris Bryant a member here has a ton of factory manuals for heaters, fridges, stoves and antennas.

If you have Kwikee steps, learn how they work and maintain them regularly.

PPL, American, eTrailer, and about fifty million other parts houses. You need to Google, Google, Google and check prices and availability.

Get a GOOD tire gauge and use it.

Learn how to use the search engine on the forums and how to post pictures. Look for stickys. They have a lot of absolutely imperative info.

Toughen up your skin.

Don't get in arguments and read lots of posts on lots of subjects. Ask a lot of questions and post your successes when you solve a problem you asked about on here.

Keep a list of things, tire size, engine model, model numbers for all appliances, height, width and weight. Learn tank capacities.

Remember a lot of stuff in your RV house is the same as your S&B house.

Hope to meet you on the road.

[weschaney]

Thank you so much for the info! I Just drove about 40 miles and noticed the house battery's did charge from the alternator. Happy about that! I'll look for the obd port now.

[usersmanual]

weschaney wrote:
Thank you all for the replies, much appreciated.
all outlets and electrical house components work when generator is running, just isn't charging the batteries. batteries do not charge when hooked to shore power either. Ill try to find he converter.

Im checking the diff fluid today, its a slow leak out the axle seal, will replace it myself asap. Is there a parts store you guys use specific to MH's?

will pick up some GL5 today.

The A/C, if the units are toast, wheres best place to find new ones?

As a full time RVer is it best to run the fridge off the LP? or off the batteries? In the dark on how to keep fridge cool 24/7. any insight is appreciated .

Ill keep you guys updated, THANK YOU!

Your fridge never runs off the batterys but 12V power is required all the time cause that's what runs the electronics.When travelling or boondocking run off LPG and when stationary run off 110V shore power
NOTE:Found this tidbit regarding computer system

the F53 chassis in 1997 was still running EEC IV engine control system due to the GVW of the vehicle exempting it from OBDII requirements. You'll find the EEC IV (DLC) connector on the passenger side near the starter relay. Location varies since coach builder may move it, but should be in that area.

and yes sounds like your converter is either not pluged in,circuts dead or converters dead. easy to check those possibilities
AC units try ebay,PPL,amazon to name a few
did you check to make sure the House batterys charge off the alternator

[John_Wayne]

Napa or any parts store should be able to get you the parts after all it's just a bread truck frame with a house on top.