Levelling the RV

[chrisandoctavia]

We have just been on the first trip in our (for us) new RV

It is a 2007 Itasca Impulse C Class

Our first stay was a couple of miles from our house at a local RV campground that had level, flat concrete RV pads to test everything out.....

Our next trip may find us on less level ground, and I was wondering what people used to level their C Class RVs?

Do you use scissor jacks - or what other levelling devices are used?

Thanks

Chris

[RVWithTito]

Tri Levelers are what I use. (Tri Leveler on Amazon). I keep 4 handy at all times. I used to carry 2x8 pieces of wood at first.

[SRockwood]

Cheaper to buy 2x4s and then screw them together with a small piece of plywood since most of us have scrap 2x4s lying around. If you want to get fancy, you could make a 3-step system similar to the ramps posted above by cutting the 2x4s up into pieces and screwing them together. 🙂

[EsoxLucius]

tenbear wrote:
Actually the worst case is raising both dualies and one corner in the front.

$200 then I guess, thanks.

[OutdoorPhotogra]

EsoxLucius wrote:

OutdoorPhotographer wrote:
I used boards for years and recently bought Anderson levelers. Only $40 at Amazon (I have single axle). Love the system and will never go back to lumber or blocks. $40 is not much for this hobby.

That would be $160 to address all possible leveling scenarios. (One under each rear dually if the whole rear end needs to go up.)

yeah, I use the 'active thread' view and forgot to check that this was class C. I was thinking two sets max for a dual axle.

I want to move up to a C in the future. Hadn't considered you need to work to level front to back as well as side to side.

[tenbear]

Actually the worst case is raising both dualies and one corner in the front.

[EsoxLucius]

OutdoorPhotographer wrote:
I used boards for years and recently bought Anderson levelers. Only $40 at Amazon (I have single axle). Love the system and will never go back to lumber or blocks. $40 is not much for this hobby.

That would be $160 to address all possible leveling scenarios. (One under each rear dually if the whole rear end needs to go up.)

[PSW]

I made four sets of four 2x8s cut into lengths that, when stacked properly, can raise all four rear wheels six inches. I cut 45 degree cuts on one end of each of the boards. I have forgotten the exact lengths, but essentially it was 9, 18, 27 and 36 inches for each set. These could then be used to construct a ramp using one, two, three or four pieces, 0-6 inches high in increments of 1 1/2". I drilled 5/16" holes in the appropriate places in each plank so as to drop a few 1/4 inch carriage bolts to act as pins to keep the boards from slipping on each other when in use.

I then went to Academy and bought two nice bags and put two sets in each bag. I carry these bags in our toad. Why? Because we camp mostly in BLM or NF campgrounds boondocking and some spots that need quite a bit of leveling sometimes.

After using these for a couple of years, they now reside in my shop and have been replaced with four sets of the old tried and true plastic block levelers. I had two sets already and have used them for ten years. So, six sets of ten plastic interlocking orange levelers.

WHY? Because the boards were just too bulky and heavy to carry in the unit and took up too much space in the back of the Jeep. Most times, we needed to level no more than three or four inches and the blocks do that fine. I over engineered!! Boy, the ones I built are nice but they weighed a total of 110 pounds and filled an area 16" by 36" by 12"!! AND, I had to strap them down in the toad in case of an emergency braking situation. The orange blocks weigh half that and take up a lot less room. They don't work as well and are certainly not as sturdy, but they are sure easier to tote and use.

As to hydraulic levelers, they would be real nice but just cost too darn much for my blood. I have never had them, would love to have them, but not for 3 or 4 Large.

Lesson of the story: sometimes less is more and don't over engineer in your retirement years.

Paul

[Ductape_Dave]

I carry the orange plastic blocks along with pieces of 2x8 that are cut at a 45 degree angle to make it easier for the tires to ride up on. I mostly use the plastic blocks except where you encounter soft soil conditions then the wood is better because the open web of the plastic blocks sinks into the sand. I have everything fit into the plastic crates for ease of storage. I also use a level on the floor then raise the level so the bubble is in the middle and multiply the height difference that tells me how much I have to raise the MH.

[Bordercollie]

"If you are comfortable, it's level enough for fridge" may be OK for short term camping or parking but I was told by RV service guy, after replacing our fridge, that it's best to use a bubble level on floor of fridge and try to level rig so that bubble is nearly centered when running fridge for long periods of time as when parked in the driveway for months. The Dometic fridge in our 2004 Tioga lasted 10 years with typical leveling and running at a moderate angle in the driveway for long periods. I have read that recent fridges are more sensitive about leveling than older fridge designs.

[pnichols]

I carry along five (5) three-step blocks along that I made out of 2 X 6's, plus extra pieces of 2 X 6's. The plastic three-step blocks break too easily when camping in off-pavement rocky campsites.

Also for Boy Scout readiness, you need to carry along the capability for leveling in a worst case situation: This would be a 3-point leveling ... where you are on a slope that is tipped slightly both from side-to-side and front-to-back. In that situation you might have to raise both rear dual tire sets (requiring 4 three-step blocks), along with one front tire (requiring 1 three-step block). Our camping style is to be ready for any situation, and we have needed to do 3-point leveling several times ... not for refrigerator reasons ... but for walking around and sleeping comfort inside the coach.

[PhilandJoyce]

Structural lumber was originally cut in 2" dimensions at the lumber mill; 2x4, 2x8, 4x8, 6x10. As this industry moved to pine and spruce as the major wood type, the trees were cut down to size "wet" and THEN allowed to dry, thereby decreasing their overall dimensions.
Today, there is no such thing as a true 2x4 or 2x6 or 2x8 etc.
You can start out using a low-grade piece of lumber, but I would think, for the long term, you might want to go with pressure treated.
Very often, at your local "big box" store, you may be able to find remnant pieces of lumber near the "cutting deck", where the store cuts down lumber for their customers. Start there.

[Skid_Row_Joe]

Healeyman wrote:
This picture will show you what WE use.
Tim

This is the method I've employed on my diesel rigs for almost 30 years as well.:) The HWH system is overpriced, IMO, and subject to too many failures, so, it's a whole lot easier AND CHEAPER to carry two or three 2"X6"es. If it's that much out of level that you need more than (3 or4) 2'X6"es, move a few feet to a more level spot! LOL! ;):S

[Jim_Shoe]

I had HWH semi automatic levelers installed on my 'C'. I'm a single RVer. No blocks to mess with, and if its raining when I stop, I can do the leveling from the driver's seat. I just push the button that's lit up until it goes out, then the next button until it goes out. When all the lights are out, I'm level.

[Healeyman]

chrisandoctavia wrote:
I was wondering what people used to level their C Class RVs?

This picture will show you what WE use.

Tim