dehumidifiers

[dockmasterdave]

Hi all:
I am going to be leaving my TT on site for 2 months over the summer in south central FL.
We will be going up on weekends ( it is up from here ).
I am looking at small portable humidifiers, to replace tubs of damp rid.
Most look to have a small tank that has to be emptied.
If it gets full the machine shuts off.
I have read about people on here having theirs drain into a kitchen sink.
That is what I would like to do.
I'm just wondering how you did it.
Did you get one of the ones with a removable plastic bucket in the bottom front, and just drill it for a drain hose?
Any suggestion greatly appreciated

[CavemanCharlie]

DrewE wrote:

CavemanCharlie wrote:

flguppie wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:
Why not just leave the air conditioner on. Shades closed, with the thermostat set around 85, it will keep it dry.

This is what we do...S FL heat + humidity. We set the AC. The dehumidifiers exhaust heat into the room, making a TT even hotter.

Ummmm,,,, Noooo,,, They are not going to make it any hotter. But, they are definitely not going to make it any cooler.

It's kinda hard to explain.

They will make it warmer because the heat pump system is not 100% efficient. The excess power is converted to heat (and a vanishingly small amount of acoustic and electromagnetic energy).

It's identical in concept to why the converter also warms up the interior of the RV somewhat; it's not 100% efficient either, and the excess energy nearly all becomes heat which has to go somewhere.

Ya, OK, I understand that. But, if it's 95 degrees in the RV to begin with is the little extra heat being made by the dehumidifier compressor going to be enough that you will notice the difference???

[DrewE]

CavemanCharlie wrote:

flguppie wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:
Why not just leave the air conditioner on. Shades closed, with the thermostat set around 85, it will keep it dry.

This is what we do...S FL heat + humidity. We set the AC. The dehumidifiers exhaust heat into the room, making a TT even hotter.

Ummmm,,,, Noooo,,, They are not going to make it any hotter. But, they are definitely not going to make it any cooler.

It's kinda hard to explain.

They will make it warmer because the heat pump system is not 100% efficient. The excess power is converted to heat (and a vanishingly small amount of acoustic and electromagnetic energy).

It's identical in concept to why the converter also warms up the interior of the RV somewhat; it's not 100% efficient either, and the excess energy nearly all becomes heat which has to go somewhere.

[CavemanCharlie]

flguppie wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:
Why not just leave the air conditioner on. Shades closed, with the thermostat set around 85, it will keep it dry.

This is what we do...S FL heat + humidity. We set the AC. The dehumidifiers exhaust heat into the room, making a TT even hotter.

Ummmm,,,, Noooo,,, They are not going to make it any hotter. But, they are definitely not going to make it any cooler.

It's kinda hard to explain.

[Slowmover]

I've had one running almost nonstop the past seven years. 70-pint. When TT is in storage a low setting takes care of things. When I'm away a few days I run the DH as it is less of a strain on things. Running an A/C on low fan is a problem I'd avoid. A camper burned up here when a neighbor did that. Bad park electric voltage and all. The DH leaves the interior hot, but dry. It's easy for the A/C unit to cool it off from the 90's. And much more comfortable than the clammy air the A/c would struggle to dry.

[fcooper]

In my humid climate, I run a dehumidifier most of the time. It sits in the kitchen sink, drains into the gray tank. Since I park on gravel, I leave the valve open so it can drip on the ground.

One thing to be aware of when selecting a dehumidifier. The old mechanical control types would restart after a power failure. Some of the electronic models will not restart automatically after a power failure, requiring you to restart the unit. There are electronic control models that store the settings and restart automatically when the power is restored.

Without the automatic restart feature, you could leave your rv and have the dehumidifier fail due to a power failure.

Fred

[Padlin]

I tried the A/C during a tropical storm in TN, got very cold but it was still very damp. Might have waited too long before kicking it on. I've heard you can turn on both the A/C and the heat at the same time, if you have the option. You'd need separate controls.

As flguppie and Chris have done it, and they live in FL, give it a try.

[FLGup]

Chris Bryant wrote:
Why not just leave the air conditioner on. Shades closed, with the thermostat set around 85, it will keep it dry.

This is what we do...S FL heat + humidity. We set the AC. The dehumidifiers exhaust heat into the room, making a TT even hotter.

[Chris_Bryant]

Why not just leave the air conditioner on. Shades closed, with the thermostat set around 85, it will keep it dry.

[Padlin]

I use a small 25 pint for the trailer, but it is either on or off so it just runs and runs. Does work very well though.
Newair 25

A friend bought this one. It's smaller and the desired humidity level can be set.

Both come with a hose if you don't want to dump the tub.

Keep in mind these expel warmer air then they take in. Might be an issue down south.

[noplace2]

down home wrote:
It has a safety switch. Tank is full it shuts off. Take the tank out and it shuts off. Put the tank in, empty and it cuts on.

Weight or tape the safety switch...problem solved

[DrewE]

RJCorazza wrote:
The one we have for the house had a drain connection, but for the life of me could not figure out how to drain it. No knockout, and the hose connection is above the shut off level of the tank.
An easy fix was to drill the lower edge of the tank, insert a 3/8ths to 1/4 " barbed connector with silicone adhesive sealer, run small tubing to wherever.

On the unit I have in my basement, the hose connection is to the dehumidifier itself, not to the tank, and connecting a hose diverts the water from even going into the tank. I think many (most?) are similar in that regard. (Basically, the water drips from the hose connection into the tank if there is no hose attached.)

[down_home]

It has a safety switch. Tank is full it shuts off. Take the tank out and it shuts off. Put the tank in, empty and it cuts on.

[noplace2]

msb1766 wrote:
Set it in the shower and let it drain there.

Can't understand why this wasn't the end of the discussion. Take the collection cup out of even the cheapest of them, tilt it and let it run and drain.

[RJCorazza]

The one we have for the house had a drain connection, but for the life of me could not figure out how to drain it. No knockout, and the hose connection is above the shut off level of the tank.
An easy fix was to drill the lower edge of the tank, insert a 3/8ths to 1/4 " barbed connector with silicone adhesive sealer, run small tubing to wherever.