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Good glue to withstand heat and weight?

rhetthughes
Explorer
Explorer
Hello everyone! Iโ€™m having an issue where the front panel of my dometic fridge keeps sliding down. Itโ€™s no harm to anything other than one extra layer of insulation. I tried some heavy duty double sided tape that is supposed to hold 20 lbs per whatever small square strip of it. Didnโ€™t work. Figured the 5 pieces I used was not enough so doubled the amount. Just picked up my rv from storage and it had slid again (this was after several camping trips with additional tape. So Iโ€™m guessing I need to find some kind of glue that will withstand summer heat in South Carolina and apply a generous amount to the back and to the sides where the panel inserts into the plastic side frames of the door of the fridge. Any suggestions on a glue that will work to hold that front panel in place? Thanks!
17 REPLIES 17

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Get a $4 tube of Goop or Shoe Goo and place a few dollops in an inconspicuous location. When you're done with the fridge door project, put vaseline in the cap for the glue and tighten it up. Your Goop will be ready for another project because it doesn't harden in the tube.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Chum_lee
Explorer
Explorer
rhetthughes wrote:
Thank you all for the advice! Iโ€™ve started by calling Dometic. They want me to send pictures to see if it is an issue on their end or the camper manufacturer (basically said that the panels are often installed at the rv factory to match the decor, and not something that dometic does. So could definitely be a faulty installation at the rv factory.


"So could definitely be a faulty installation at the rv factory."

No way! (this is sarcasm)

IMO, Dometic, and other manufacturers recognize the concepts of differential thermal expansion and expansion/contraction due to humidity. Their door design reflects this. When the refrigerator is working, the door(s) expands and contracts with temperature as compared to when it is shut off. The same condition occurs due to changes in humidity. The door skin (decorative wood or plastic panel) does also, but, at different rates than the door. When large enough, these expansion forces are strong enough to break welds in a nuclear reactor. So, thinking that a little tape, glue, or whatever is going to hold tight is, at best, wishful thinking. If the door skin rattles during driving, you may need to dampen the noise with a piece or two of some type of adhesive but the door skin should be held in place with the moldings on the edge of the door. Check the initial fitment of the door panel. Without seeing it, my guess is that it may have been undercut/overcut at the RV factory or may be an incompatible material or thickness.

Chum lee

rhetthughes
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you all for the advice! Iโ€™ve started by calling Dometic. They want me to send pictures to see if it is an issue on their end or the camper manufacturer (basically said that the panels are often installed at the rv factory to match the decor, and not something that dometic does. So could definitely be a faulty installation at the rv factory.

Ava
Explorer
Explorer
I would sure like to know what kind of glue was used on my 94 Bounder. I tried to get the original panels off and gave up before tearing the panels into pieces.

rhetthughes
Explorer
Explorer
BurbMan wrote:
There is supposed to be a trim piece ob the bottom of the door that holds the panel in place. I would call Dometic and see if you can fix the problem right before you glue it in there permanently....because you know that once you do that you'll need to take that panel out....


It does have the trim piece. And it appears to be intact - all the little tab pieces are there and not broken off. It just wonโ€™t hold that panel. But thatโ€™s a good idea. Iโ€™ll call them and see if they have heard of this and if a new trim piece on the bottom would fix it.

2DHoop
Explorer II
Explorer II
SoundGuy wrote:
2DHoop wrote:
Hello, will you need to be able to remove this panel at any point in the future?


rhetthughes wrote:
I canโ€™t imagine ever needing to. Itโ€™s just reall decorative - that black panel on the standard camper fridge.


Chum lee wrote:
If you ever have to replace the old fridge in it's entirety, you may have to transfer the existing panel on the old fridge to the new fridge if you want it to match so don't make it too difficult to get off.


To the OP - this is correct. Apply GOOP to the back of the panel, a few dabs along the top edge and a few along the bottom edge, where you can later break through it with a thin, flat wall scraper if need be. Support the panel in position for a day while the GOOP cures, then it should hold securely.


Kind of what I was thinking as well. Might want to check out an automotive trim/weather strip adhesive, which I have found to work well for a number of "one-off" fixes.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03601-Plastic-Emblem-Adhesive/dp/B000CCM3J2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1532458351&sr=8-5&keywords=automotive+trim+adhesive

There are a few different brands to include Goop. I like 3M stuff and I like to buy small quantities as once the product is opened the unused portions tend to dry up over time and can be difficult to use again.
2013 Arctic Fox 25P
2010 Dodge 3500 SRW CTD

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
2DHoop wrote:
Hello, will you need to be able to remove this panel at any point in the future?


rhetthughes wrote:
I canโ€™t imagine ever needing to. Itโ€™s just reall decorative - that black panel on the standard camper fridge.


Chum lee wrote:
If you ever have to replace the old fridge in it's entirety, you may have to transfer the existing panel on the old fridge to the new fridge if you want it to match so don't make it too difficult to get off.


To the OP - this is correct. Apply GOOP to the back of the panel, a few dabs along the top edge and a few along the bottom edge, where you can later break through it with a thin, flat wall scraper if need be. Support the panel in position for a day while the GOOP cures, then it should hold securely.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Chum_lee
Explorer
Explorer
rhetthughes wrote:
2DHoop wrote:
Hello, will you need to be able to remove this panel at any point in the future?


I canโ€™t imagine ever needing to. Itโ€™s just reall decorative - that black panel on the standard camper fridge.


If you ever have to replace the old fridge in it's entirety, you may have to transfer the existing panel on the old fridge to the new fridge if you want it to match so don't make it too difficult to get off.

Chum lee

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Gorilla glue would work pretty well for this sort of thing, I think. It has better gap filling ability than many other adhesives. A decent caulking would also work and be removable if needed; either a urethane or a silicone would be okay here, I think.

Maybe all you need is a few little wooden wedges of some sort, like maybe bits of matchsticks or toothpicks. Alternately, remove the panel in question and cut a slightly longer one of whatever material you like. (I applied some peel-and-stick dry erase board film to my fridge panels and now have a quite handy place to write down shopping lists and campground bathroom combination codes and similar things.)

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
There is supposed to be a trim piece ob the bottom of the door that holds the panel in place. I would call Dometic and see if you can fix the problem right before you glue it in there permanently....because you know that once you do that you'll need to take that panel out....

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
shoe goo
I used it to hold a D.C. Circuit breaker mounted to a 2000w inverter
And that case gets pretty warm

You will need to tape?
The panels In place until the goo sets 12>24 hours for full cure
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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1997 F53 Bounder 36s

billyboy
Explorer
Explorer
Gorilla glue
09 winny adventurer 32h 33 ft towing 015 focus

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have had really good luck with Goop everything that I used it on has stayed in place.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
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d3500ram
Explorer III
Explorer III
I do not know the exact specifics of your situation, but would contact cement work?
Sold the TC, previous owner of 2 NorthStar pop-ups & 2 Northstar Arrows...still have the truck:

2005 Dodge 3500 SRW, Qcab long bed, NV-6500, diesel, 4WD, Helwig, 9000XL,
Nitto 285/70/17 Terra Grapplers, Honda eu3000Is, custom overload spring perch spacers.