Hot water tank draining

[joesann]

Just got our KZ Spree Travel Trailer ready for winter 😞 Forgot how to relieve the pressure on the hot water tank. Unscrewed the rod to drain the tank, and the extra pressure in the tank, I got a bath. How do you make it so there is less presure in the tank to prevent water from blasting out of the tank ?

[MP_soldier]

joesann wrote:
Just got our KZ Spree Travel Trailer ready for winter 😞 Forgot how to relieve the pressure on the hot water tank. Unscrewed the rod to drain the tank, and the extra pressure in the tank, I got a bath. How do you make it so there is less presure in the tank to prevent water from blasting out of the tank ?

Don't feel bad. I'm good for a water heater soaking about every 3 winterizing...

[kennethwooster]

Yep I've had a few baths. Just not thinking. I usually flip up the pressure relief valve 1st, then take the rod out. If you are normal you will probably get a bath now and then.

[Community Alumni]

I agree to a point but my experience had been that once you've sacrificed one rod through electrochemical reaction in a tank, you can go many years without 'using'up' another one. I've actually gone 6 years on the same rod with very little deterioration.

As far as sediment is concerned, I'll flush the tank every 3-4 years; not much ever comes out. I guess it depends upon the water quality wherever you are most of the time.

... Eric

[colliehauler]

PackerBacker wrote:

camperforlife wrote:

Cecilt wrote:
Why pull the rod at all if you are just draining to winterize. Easiest is to open low point drains, open taps and flip pressure valve. All the water will drain out of the HWH negating the need to remove the anode.

My experience is that the low point drain will not completely drain the water heater. Also if you use antifreeze, you would have to fill the water heater completely with antifreeze to pressurize the hot water system to get it through all the hot water pipes. Much easier to pull the rod and bypass the water heater with the antifreeze.

I just open the low point drain then set the bypass off and pump anti-freeze thru the system without filling the hw tank. I winterize and dewinterize several times a winter since we use our trailer about 10 months a year. Using the low point drain speeds things up because I don't have to remove the anode rod. There's never enough water left in the hw tank to cause any issues due to ice expansion.

You don't get the sediment out of the tank by doing this. Removing the rod not only allows you to clean the sediment out but also allows you to check the rod for need of replacement.

[Community Alumni]

camperforlife wrote:

Cecilt wrote:
Why pull the rod at all if you are just draining to winterize. Easiest is to open low point drains, open taps and flip pressure valve. All the water will drain out of the HWH negating the need to remove the anode.

My experience is that the low point drain will not completely drain the water heater. Also if you use antifreeze, you would have to fill the water heater completely with antifreeze to pressurize the hot water system to get it through all the hot water pipes. Much easier to pull the rod and bypass the water heater with the antifreeze.

I just open the low point drain then set the bypass off and pump anti-freeze thru the system without filling the hw tank. I winterize and dewinterize several times a winter since we use our trailer about 10 months a year. Using the low point drain speeds things up because I don't have to remove the anode rod. There's never enough water left in the hw tank to cause any issues due to ice expansion.

[camperforlife]

Cecilt wrote:
Why pull the rod at all if you are just draining to winterize. Easiest is to open low point drains, open taps and flip pressure valve. All the water will drain out of the HWH negating the need to remove the anode.

My experience is that the low point drain will not completely drain the water heater. Also if you use antifreeze, you would have to fill the water heater completely with antifreeze to pressurize the hot water system to get it through all the hot water pipes. Much easier to pull the rod and bypass the water heater with the antifreeze.

[Cecilt]

Why pull the rod at all if you are just draining to winterize. Easiest is to open low point drains, open taps and flip pressure valve. All the water will drain out of the HWH negating the need to remove the anode.

[rhagfo]

donn0128 wrote:
Lift the handle on the relief valve. Just like at home.

2X

It is right there when draining. When I am filling the first trip after having drained, I also open to fill the tank, once it starts spitting water I shut.

[ScottG]

I've done that to myself a couple of times LOL!

[Scooter86]

After years of releasing the pressure relief valve on the heater, I forgot to this fall and also took a bath. You can also open a faucet like others have stated, but the valve works just fine.

[donn0128]

Lift the handle on the relief valve. Just like at home.

[larry_barnhart]

I turn on the outside shower to the hot water faucet and let the water drain that way.

chevman

[Escargot]

-If used recently, allow water in tank to cool, after cooling
-Make sure pump is turned Off
-Open hot water faucet(s)
-Flip cock of pressure relief valve at water heater
-Unscrew anode rod (if part of your water heater)
-Drain tank

[bid_time]

Open a hot water faucet.