How do I stop my batteries from charging?

[DarthMuffin]

When I fire up my Honda 2000 generator my lovely Powermax Boondocker converter does it's job and starts charging the batteries in boost mode. All fine and great, but that takes all the power and doesn't leave enough to do things like operate the microwave.

What's the best way to stop it from charging temporarily? I have lots of battery and even on extended trips haven't felt the need to charge via generator. AC power comes through one 30A breaker to the converter and from there goes out to things like the Microwave, so I can't just flip the breaker.

Is a disconnect on the battery bank the answer? Is that safe to do and disconnect while the converter is doing it's thing?

[ewarnerusa]

My converter was originally piggybacked in with a breaker labeled "GEN" as in general outlets I suppose because it feeds all the non GFCI outlets. I had room for another breaker so I added a 15A one and tied the converter into it. Now it is isolated and I actually have it switched off most of the time.

[mbopp]

I had a spare branch circuit breaker slot in my converter. I put a 15A breaker in it and tied the converter feed to it. So to shut the converter off I just flip the breaker.

[time2roll]

DarthMuffin wrote:
I've double checked the breakers, there is not one for the converter. A 30A main one, and 4 15A circuits -- water heater, fridge, galley GFI and bathroom GFI. When the 30A one is flipped everything goes dead. The other breakers go to what they say.

The converter is hard-wired, I remember from replacing the original board with the Powermax Boondocker.

Guess I will look into a battery disconnect, or adding a switch in the 110 to the converter.

Take the next cover off to see the wires. Find the converter hot lead and what breaker it is tied to. My oem had a jumper to share a breaker with some outlets.

[Jim_Shoe]

I use a Blade disconnector. Simple and cheap.
I fought the urge to suggest that you take away its credit card. Oops. Guess I lost that fight.

[tpi]

My former trailer had converter tied in with another circuit (can't remember which). My class C has dedicated breaker for the converter.

Evidently it is not unusual for the converter to be tied in with something else.

[DarthMuffin]

I've double checked the breakers, there is not one for the converter. A 30A main one, and 4 15A circuits -- water heater, fridge, galley GFI and bathroom GFI. When the 30A one is flipped everything goes dead. The other breakers go to what they say.

The converter is hard-wired, I remember from replacing the original board with the Powermax Boondocker.

Guess I will look into a battery disconnect, or adding a switch in the 110 to the converter.

[SAR_Tracker]

pull the plug on the converter. Literally. The converter should plug into a 110vac socket - just pull the plug out.

[wa8yxm]

The easiest way to stop it from charging batteries is to disconnect them after you start the Generator.. that way they wont suck current. Re-connect to charge before you shut down.

You an effect a SLOW charge by putting a lamp (say a 100 watt 12 volt drop lamp type lamp) across the disconnect solenoid This will act like a resistor (Fairly small one if lamp is dark) and allow some charging but should keep the converter out of boost mode. Play with wattage, smaller lamps (IE: 75,50, or less) watts will cause slower re-charge and a greater tendency to keep converter out of boost mode. Below that go to turn signal/marker lamp types (1156, 1141 or ninty something as examples) But I think the 100 watt, or even a 150 watt is more likely what you'll want.

150 watt is a "Work lamp" (Those yellow, finned thigs,,, Tube type lamp) 50-100 looks like an old fashion HOME lamp bulb fits same type of socket.. Smaller are automotive lamps. The lamp might not light when hooked across the solenoid (Unless batteries are very low) but do not worry about that.

[Itching2go]

On our rig, I use the battery disconnect switch for the period of time I want the power for 'other things' like the microwave, coffee maker, wife's hairdryer, etc, and put the batteries back on line when we're done. Never been a problem for us.

[opnspaces]

I would second that there is a main 30A breaker and a sub probably 15 amp converter breaker.

If you have a meter, connect it to the battery while on generator of shore power. Then start flipping breakers one at a time until the meter shows a drop in voltage. At this point the charger is disconnected. Assuming the microwave still works you'll have found your answer. Just don't forget to turn the breaker back in when you're done with the microwave.

[tpi]

Most converters don't need the batteries in the system. The power is well regulated and will not induce hum in electronics. But check the documentation that came with your converter to confirm. You would not want the disconnect in the same confined space as the batteries.

On this page it mentions no need for battery under the "key features" http://www.bestconverter.com/PowerMax-Boondocker-Converters-_c_154.html

You could also use 120V switch on the converter power wiring.

[epusher]

Look again. There should be single ac breaker that feeds the converter ( which makes DC power and charges the batteries). The microwave should have its own ac breaker.