How to Dehumidify without power.

[LetsRV]

Have 32 ft, Class C with front entertainment center (no large open space over the cab). Where currently parked for winter no elec available.

Currently using some Dri-Z Air, using two bags with one in front and one in back, but it doesn't seem to be working so well. I do leave a roof vent open.

Anyway, any suggestions on what would be best way to dehumidify this rig without having to plug something in (no power)???

[ctilsie242]

I have used Eva-Dry units before. The ones that use silicon pellets and when full, you plug into the wall, so a little heater runs and dries them. They are OK for a cabinet or fridge, but not that much.

The calcium chloride products work fairly well. I like the Eva-Dry containers, and I make sure they are placed in a spill resistant tub or five gallon bucket. This way, I have at least two layers of protection, should I forget to remove the tubs before moving my RV. I also like having one in my bathtub as well.

If I close up the rig, the air doesn't move that much inside, so multiple large containers of CaCl2 do the job well enough to reduce smells.

Of course, the ideal would be to have a dehumidifier draining into a sink, with the gray tank valve screened (so no bugs/rats go up the exit.) However, CaCl2 is better than nothing.

[Sam_Spade]

mikestock wrote:
The problem is that most dehumidifiers will not work at all, in temperature environments below 45 degrees.

That might be a problem in a concrete basement under a home......but is should NOT be a problem in an RV which probably has a fair amount of air infiltration to start with.

Also if the outside air is 45 and the sun is shinning, the relative humidity inside the RV where the temp might be 70......should be WAY below the threshold of anything to worry about.

Winter air is DRY. In many places, VERY DRY.

I honestly can't see humidity being a problem inside a stored RV, unless maybe there is a water leak and the inside gets wet every time it rains.......which won't be solved by ANY humidification techniques.

[mikestock]

I agree with an earlier post. It would be hard to come up with a chemical solution that would remove in a month what a good electric dehumidifier would remove in a day. The problem is that most dehumidifiers will not work at all, in temperature environments below 45 degrees.

Best solution: Store it in Arizona for the Winter or find an indoor storage facility with climate control.

[RVcrazy]

I see lots of Eva-Dry products. Could you be more specific about which of their products you use? What is your use...storage or staying in the unit? Thanks!

[Sam_Spade]

Sheri625 wrote:

1) Electric or Chemical?

2) If Electric, brand? Model?

How about just setting the temp on the A/C high enough so that it runs......but not much. Maybe set it for the expected high or even 5 over that, if the interior tends to heat a lot during the day.

That will save you money on a dehumidifier (which the A/C really is anyway). But it might require an investment in an electrical outlet that will support running the A/C.

Another alternative is: Just don't worry about it. Mine sits for several weeks at a time unattended in the summer time in northern Florida and several months in the winter. I have ZERO problem with excess humidity. Maybe because it gets REALLY HOT inside on sunny days.

[Sheri625]

Reviving a topic here, hope that's okay.

We've had our 30' JayFlight for about 18 months now and only use it on the weekends because we both still work full time. 😞 We've used DampRid buckets until now and they seem to work okay but we've been thinking that it might be time to invest in an electric unit to avoid constantly replacing chemicals. We are out every other weekend and between trips our camper usually sits in our driveway. We do have a storage unit that is covered but not enclosed. We usually only store it when we aren't going out for 3 weeks or more. Not often but it does happen.

For those of you who are more experienced than we are, a couple of questions. If power is not an issue (we are not equipped to boondock so we are always plugged in), and we stay mostly in central to northeast Texas where we have humidity in the summer but it's not like being on a coast, which is your preferred method, brand, etc.:

1) Electric or Chemical?

2) If Electric, brand? Model?

3) If chemical, brand and container preference?

Any and all comments, suggestions, etc. appreciated.

[OutdoorPhotogra]

I don't know how often you would need to replace them but I used gallon tubs of damp rid or similar from clorox. No mess. The granules harden as it obsorbs moisture. I had a huge problem in our pop-up when we were using it in high humidity or rain and it completely solved the problem.

[Sport45]

If you decide to use the Dri-Z-Air (or whatever they're called) do check out the snow melt products like the one I linked earlier. It's the same stuff and less expensive.

I use it to dry out cabinets (after repairing the plumbing leak). I also use it as a substitute for the hardness+ chemical the pool store sells.

It would probably melt snow on our walks too but I've never had to try it for that... 😉

[bigred1cav]

roll your wife in flour and lay her on the floor.

[MitchF150]

Actually, is the OP talking about storing the RV or while he's using it? I don't recall that really being stated??

My first post was assuming he's storing it.. But, by the sounds of some other posters, they are in it?

Anyway, I don't use the Dri-airz things when I'm using it. Just when it's being stored.

There was a comment about leaving the vents and windows open while using them too.. I don't open any windows, just crack the vents a tad. I've left them closed and it started to get a little "stale smelling" in the trailer. Not that 'damp' smell or anything.. Just "stale".. When I crack the vents, it goes away. That' my story! 🙂

Mitch

[rhagfo]

Well once again two things maybe three.
Driscoll-air if you spill the liquid on anything absorbent,my hat surface will continue o be wet forever until replaced!

We are
Talking NON-POWERED units, household don't count.

Driz-Air user for years until I had a spill on a porous surface, needed to rebuild that cabinet. Now an Eva-Air user, and keep roof vents open.

[wolfe10]

No problem-- just like to base decisions on FACTS. Very likely you situation is very different than ours--we are on the Texas Gulf Coast. I suspect there is no "here is the right answer for everyone".

So, I searched for: "water absorbing properties calcium chloride", the active ingredient in Dri-Z-Air.


Lots of hits with the answer.

There are several variables, but here is reasonable example:

How much water can be absorbed from air by 94 percent calcium chloride at 77°F and 70 percent relative humidity? Answer: 2.5 lbs

SO, if you have one pound of calcium chloride (13 ounce is a common size Dri-Z-Air), it will remove 2.5 pounds of water divided by 8.3 pounds per gallon= .3 gallons or 38.4 ounces of water.

We are in very different climates (again, we are on the Texas Gulf Coast).

But in our coach, stored indoors, our small house-type dehumidifier will remove that much water in one day. No way would it keep up with our climate's humidity.

I am happy for those who do not require the removal of large amounts of moisture-- many parts of the year would sure like to trade locations!

Again, base your dehumidification decisions on where you are and how much water/moisture you need to remove.

[SoundGuy]

wolfe10 wrote:
I went to Dri-Z-Air's website looking for FACTS on how much water their product could remove.

I could not find it.

Anyone have the FACTS on how many gallons each of their sizes will remove? At least "number of gallons" is the volume we need on the Gulf coast over a month's period of time to keep humidity at 50%.

So what you're saying is you have no "facts" on which to base your own claim either. :W

Personally, I don't care about how many gallons over how much time at what humidity levels may be removed from the air, all I care about is whether using a desiccant like Dri-Z-Air will help prevent damage to the trailer while it's in winter storage and prevent that excessively damp feeling when we start using it again in the spring. Over the many years I've used it in a variety of trailers that has been the case. 🙂 However, since you've got your shorts in such a knot over this why not contact the manufacturer and ask if they will steer you to any supporting documentation? :W

[wolfe10]

I went to Dri-Z-Air's website looking for FACTS on how much water their product could remove.

I could not find it.

Anyone have the FACTS on how many gallons each of their sizes will remove? At least "number of gallons" is the volume we need on the Gulf coast over a month's period of time to keep humidity at 50%.