Surge power protector- hard wire or portable?

[cougar28]

I have room behind a panel to put the hard wire version. But what if for some reason it goes south? Now your going to have to wire around to restore power.Make it plug and play by putting plugs on each side? If I do that why not just use a portable unit and install behind the panel?
Or just use the portable unit plugging into the power pedestal? Taking the chance of someone walking off with it-water intrusion and just having to deal with every time you set up and leave. What's you thoughts? I'm sure there's more + and - to each one.

[Bobbo]

ependydad wrote:

IAMICHABOD wrote:
Before backing in of pulling in I always check with my home made pedestal checker,cheap but it works.

Saves me the hassel of dragging everything out.

parts list
15 amp to 30 amp Adapter
triplex outlet
Outlet tester
Volt Meter
I had all these around the house,why not use them...
I also use my 50amp to 30amp adapter to check the 50amp side. Sometimes I like them better as they are in better shape.

I like that. I've debated building one for 50amp spots that would check L1 and L2. But never could find my roundtoit.

If you ever do, also add a 240v LED indicator light between the L1 and L2 wires. That will tell you if they cheated and wired both to the same leg, possibly causing a NEUTRAL overload.

240v green LED indicator light

[ependydad]

IAMICHABOD wrote:
Before backing in of pulling in I always check with my home made pedestal checker,cheap but it works.

Saves me the hassel of dragging everything out.

parts list
15 amp to 30 amp Adapter
triplex outlet
Outlet tester
Volt Meter
I had all these around the house,why not use them...
I also use my 50amp to 30amp adapter to check the 50amp side. Sometimes I like them better as they are in better shape.

I like that. I've debated building one for 50amp spots that would check L1 and L2. But never could find my roundtoit.

[IAMICHABOD]

Before backing in of pulling in I always check with my home made pedestal checker,cheap but it works.

Saves me the hassel of dragging everything out.

parts list
15 amp to 30 amp Adapter
triplex outlet
Outlet tester
Volt Meter
I had all these around the house,why not use them...
I also use my 50amp to 30amp adapter to check the 50amp side. Sometimes I like them better as they are in better shape.

[ependydad]

There are pros and cons to both:
https://learntorv.com/what-surge-protector-is-best-for-my-rv/

Biggest pros to Portable: no installation and you can test a site before backing in
Biggest con to Portable: the display is outside

Biggest pros to Hard-wired: always there + can't be forgotten
Biggest con to Hard-wired: installation

[Lynnmor]

I have the previous generation of Hughes, that does offer some surge protection. Before I turn on any appliances, I look at my plugin voltmeter that also displays other faults. If I find that the voltages is very good, I don't use the autoformer.

My decision to buy an autoformer was the experience of watching voltage drop to 99 as the Friday night gang rolled in and fired up their AC and water heaters.

[pianotuna]

Hi Lynnmor,

Which autoformer do you own?

I added surge protection to my Sola Basic autoformer. I wanted to be able to check incoming voltage so there is an outlet added on both the input and output sides. That makes it easy as pie to check simply by plugging in a pair of Kill-a-watt meters. It allows me to add surge protection to the input and/or the output side.

Even plugging in a power bar with MOV's offers some level of surge protection. It does not need to be in series with the shore power. Parallel works just fine. Sometimes you may find one at a dollar store. Prior to owning the autoformer, I did have one from a dollar store on my fridge and it did "die". I was using it as a "spacer" to add freeze protection to the unit.

Lynnmor wrote:
I never used any type of surge protector or EMS except the autoformer for the past six years.

[Lynnmor]

I cable my autoformer to the post although I have camped with an RV off and on since 1977 and have never had a problem with theft. I never used any type of surge protector or EMS except the autoformer for the past six years. The way I see it is that most of the cheap junk electronics are of less value than what many are paying for an EMS with the air conditioner being the only expensive item worth saving.

[edatlanta]

I have been using a my 50amp portable unit for 9 years full time. During this period I have been saved many times due to high and low voltage as well as open grounds and open neutrals even on my home base residential site. My original PT50C sacrificed itself a couple of times and was ultimately replaced under warranty with a PT50X. I am so paranoid about power issues I will not plug in anywhere anytime without my PT50X in line. As a matter of fact I have 2 of them so I can put my spare in service when the primary dies which has happened.

Concerning the theft concern many have - I have never heard of one being stolen. I have never talked to anyone who knew someone who had one stolen or even heard of someone else who had one stolen. So I will offer a challenge to this group which I have done in the past:

Has anyone here ever heard of a portable EMS unit being stolen?

I think it is a non-issue!

[ol_Bombero-JC]

cougar28 wrote:
I have room behind a panel to put the hard wire version. But what if for some reason it goes south? Now your going to have to wire around to restore power.Make it plug and play by putting plugs on each side? If I do that why not just use a portable unit and install behind the panel?
Or just use the portable unit plugging into the power pedestal? Taking the chance of someone walking off with it-water intrusion and just having to deal with every time you set up and leave. What's you thoughts? I'm sure there's more + and - to each one.

I don't expect it to "go south", however -Yes- to your first paragraph. (And - no need to have it outside!)

I have 3 choices with my portable PI - which is always inside - (Out of sight, behind sliding panel). Short section of cable from power panel to 50amp female plug. PI located there. Then.......

1. "Normal" = Connected to the 12V powered cord reel (pull out amt of quality -flexible- cord necessary, push button to retract cord). No "anaconda" to fight!

2. Connect to "original" wiring to the Marinco connection at the rear of the 5th wheel. (If the pedestal is in the rear) Use 15' short 50 amp extension cord to the pedestal. Only needed this once in 13 years.

This also allows me to go back to "original" if I sell the 5th and wish to take the powered cord reel (& cord) with me to the next one.

3. Connect to 30amp cord - to use the gen in pickup bed.

Yes - the portable is "in line" to one (only *one* of the three choices possible) with 50 amp male & female plugs. It can be removed if desired.

:C

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I disagree. The main purpose ought to be to check the power source before plugging in the RV. Since this may be best done while "under load", the current energy management systems may not work quite as well as they might.

I do this manually before plugging in to any shore power, using a heating device as the load. I have never encountered a fault, other than low voltage. I prefer to use an autoformer to correct the problem.

The units that are surge only may be somewhat useless.

Rover_Bill wrote:
The main purpose of any surge protector (portable or hard wired) is to prevent EXCESSIVE voltage from entering the RV.

[CA_Traveler]

Rover Bill,

Good post. For me the main purpose of my PI HW50C EMS is protection from open ground, reverse polarity, high and low voltage and a surge.

My 2004 PI HW50C used 4-5 months/year has never displayed the Replace Surge error so don't know if I've gotten any surges. I never expect to get the Line Frequency error since utilities are so precise. If any of the above conditions are detected when plugged in power is disconnected and ditto if they occur later. And I've had all of the above faults.

Potentially the worst and most destructive occurred on 2005 when 160V was detected on a 30A pedestal at 10:00 PM. Power was shut down by the HW50C and I could not get unplugged fast enough. I knew the problem was due to a open neutral - something to think about and there are no typos in this paragraph.

[Rover_Bill]

The main purpose of any surge protector (portable or hard wired) is to prevent EXCESSIVE voltage from entering the RV. They do that by routing excessive voltage from the hot line back to the ground wire (not neutral line) via metal oxide varistors (MOV) between the two lines.

The MOVs are not damaged if a power surge event is mild, and they will continue to function and protect the RV by bypassing future excessive voltage events. If the surge is extreme (or above the MOV joule rating) the MOVs will be damaged. The MOVs in a hard wired box are replaceable, they are not replaceable in a portable unit. That's why I have mine hard wired.

In either case after the power surge event (assuming the wiring is not physically damaged), power will still be routed to the RV but will not be protected from future surges. It's not like a fuse - once blown then no power until replaced. (At least in theory)

[Second_Chance]

WNYBob wrote:
If you are a DIYer check out the warranty requirements for the hard wired version I believe there state you need to have it installed by a tech.

P.S. I have a portable one that I chain to the power post, wouldn't be without it!

Not true for the Progressive Industries EMS hardwired systems. I installed my own and PI has worked with me on warranty issues - never asked who installed it.

Rob

[pianotuna]

Hi,

That is typical of low voltage and/or poor connections. Unfortunately the PI unit won't do much to help.

suprz wrote:
After 14 years of RVing, I finally had an experience where the 30 amp outlet I was using just stopped working... I went to the front desk of the park and they sent the maintenance guy right out. After some investigation the wires had actually melted the plug and disconnected... I used a 50 to 30amp dog bone for the rest of the stay. That winter, I ordered the Progressive industries hardwired unit. It does make a humming sound but luckily it's in the outside bay so I don't hear it.. But I feel better knowing it's there. Just like any other kind of insurance...