Welcome !!!
And confirm that the ratings are both confusing and pretty easy once you understand how that system works (vs marketing..."King of the Hill" braggart verbiage that most believe as an absolute)
First, decide if you believe in the OEM's specificationis/ratings/limits/recommendations or not
If not, then academic and do whatever you wish...knowing you took the OEMs off the liability hook
If yes, then read up and a suggestion on these freebie forums...look into the background/posts of whomever you wish to listen to...and on that...there is only one person responsible for the setup...that is the driver...NO ONE from a forum will stand up and pay for whatever may happen
Depending on the era/year of the TV you are looking at...the various labels will have most of the information for you to do the simple math. As mower said...GCWR will not be on the vehicle and only sometimes in the manual...as it needs the weight of *ALL* the optional equipment installed at the factory. Missing will be the after market stuff and dealer installed stuff...
Curb weight is the base model (AKA stripper model) and if not listed, you can take the GVWR minus the door label payload/cargo. Hint...that is the factory doing the simple math with the options they installed...again, if you have after market stuff...that label is incorrect
front/rear GAWR is what the OEM rates the axles to carry for the duration of their warranty...plus some to provide design margin...AKA safety margin...and a bit of marketing to say their TV's last...
Rear GAWR is where *MOST* of the trailer weight will be for either Fiver or tongued trailers. Where most 6kK-7K TVs and their 4K-5K Rear GAWR limits
GCWR is the total the whole setup (trailer and TV) puts down to pavement in weight
Most of these have lots of design margin, so the wheels won't instantly fall off if over these ratings...but they will sooner than later if under/at the ratings
Performance will be the main degradation. Like time to speed, turning, BRAKING and its ability to
MANHANDLE the whole setup during the moment Mr Murphy crosses your path
Since it appears you do not have either TV nor trailer, you can choose to work it from the trailer to the TV or from the TV to the trailer
Advise on just choosing based on market badging...like 'half ton', 1500, 150, etc...
Most OEMs has over a dozen or more 'half ton' offerings. Ranging from low 6,000 GVWRs to high 7,000 GVWRs. Most half ton will have rear GAWR in the below to over 4,000 lb range.
Don't like marketing terms, but once you get above the 'half ton' marketing moniker...the variations of 3/4 ton and 1 ton are greatly reduced, but there are still more than one flavor
So, going 8.6K GVWR (AKA 3/4 ton) you will instantly have a rear GAWR of +6,000 lbs...note that is about 2,000 lbs more then most half tons and like your thinking in having more margin...but they too can be overloaded as trailers get larger because 'you can'...
Post which TV you are interested in and we can help more
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...