WD Hitch; 2" vs. 2.5" receiver; Ford 250 issue

[outwestbound]

Greetings from a newbie. My plan is to full time out west/ mountains.

I'm evaluating a purchase of a new truck and travel trailer. My question relates to maximizing a new truck's tow rating capacity by the proper application of hitching methodology, rather than "will this pull a specific amount of weight" type question.

The TT will be large; around 36-38 all in, but not selected yet. Looking to buy 2014 F250, 6.7L turbo diesel, 4x4, crew cab, SRW, 3.55 rear end, 6.75' bed, 156.2 wheel base and rated in Ford's towing literature at 14,000 max load, 23,500 GCWR and comes with a 2.5" receiver class V hitch. (torn over 6.75' vs. 8' bed with crew cab, but that's for another post)

My goal is to, assuming proper weights in TV of course, get the max tow rating out of this 250. In Ford's 2014 super duty literature, page 3, there is a table "Hitch Receiver Weight Capacity" and my truck rates 14,000 trailer, 1,400 tongue, assuming a weight distribution hitch set up, which I want.

The issue is note 3, which says "2.5 receiver. If the provided 2.5 inch to 2.0 inch adapter is used, this reduces the Max. Trailer Capacity to 12,500 and the Max. Tongue Loan to 1,250 lbs." The reason it's an issue is because every trailer dealer says they only carry 2" WD hitches (used with the $15 adapter sleeve)and they say they've never heard of a WD hitch with a 2.5" receiver. As I am completely clueless myself, I feel that loosing this towing capacity on a $60+K truck because I have to use a $15 part seems ridiculous IF Ford's note 3 is to be taken seriously in the first place. I'm very, very concerned about safety and want lots of cushion and money isn't important when safety is the issue.

In my spreadsheet calculating all the weights and tolerances, capacities, etc., I'd very much like to use 14,000 because of the reserve/ cushion capacity.

Does it make sense to buy a class V 2.5" receiver WD rig for my travel trailer (they do exists but are about 3X the cost)so I avoid the adapter and capacity loss (per note 3)? Or, should I interpret Ford's note 3 as bull... and use the $15 adaptor AND keep using 14,000 in my calculations. Or, should I just use the adapter and live with the rating loss AND only use the lower ratings in my calculations?

Please forgive the length. I hope this made sense.

Thanks

[2500_Grunt]

bretm151 wrote:
I replaced the Ford receiver on my F250 with a Curt 15410 because I was worried I would be over 1250/12500 rating of the Ford receivier. With 17,000 pound max trailer weight, 2550 lb max tongue weight ratings, it pretty much make the receiver a non-issue...

It is a 2" receiver, which also got rid of adapter questions, etc. The only catch is that the WDH limits are about 1500 pounds with a 2" receiver (you can get a 1700 Reese with the 2.5"), but that was enough for my use.

It was about $400 installed.

Bret

I have the same Curt hitch as you. The blue OX WDH has a capacity of 2000 TW and is a 2" shank.

[Highway_4x4]

If you're going with that big a truck and going full time, I would look at 5th's for sure. More room, very nice inside. Shorter overall length and less sway I am told. Some even have gens on them. They cost more new but there are many great used ones out there.

[outwestbound]

myredracer wrote:
Maybe for another thread, but FWIW, if you get a crewcab and a long box, you may find that towing a long TT of 36-38' will be a handful for getting around corners, especially on city streets. With only a 29' TT, our F250 with supercab and long box can be "fun" to get around tighter corners sometimes. I find I have to get some turns set up right before entering it otherwise I can brush the tires on the curb or end up over the curb. But, to me a truck is not a truck unless it has a long box. We make use of the full 8' a lot.

Great comment. I'll probably post elsewhere. I must have the crew cab, but I'm down to two issues; namely, 1) bed length 6.75ish vs. 8 and 2) suspension "comfort" when driving around town unloaded.

My strategy is to full-time 2-3 years thereabouts, then return, buy a S&B house, then drive the tow vehicle as a full-time vehicle. Now that my TT selections have necessitated moving up from 1/2 ton to 3/4, I'm much more concerned about ride. I've driven new F250s and the GM/Chevy 2500 in the last 2 weeks and today, the RAM 2500 (coil, no air bags). I'm generally satisfied that any 3/4 ton would be comfortable enough unloaded, but I'm interested in this Ram option to get air bags, if available. For reasons I'm just looking into, the RAM rates to tow more too boot. As to issue 1, I'm looking to find a crew + 8' to drive and see how a 22+ long truck feels in a parking lot, etc.

[AH64ID]

Ram's tow rating is the total rating, there are other hitch specific ratings.

Bumper
1,700/17,000
5er
5,000/25,000
Gooseneck
6,000/no limit withing GCWR.

5er or Gooseneck is recommended above 12K, but not required until 17K.

[outwestbound]

Highway 4x4 wrote:
I called up Blue ox and they have a 2 1/2 inch shank but it's not shown on line yet. BTW, my Ram 2500 diesel is rated to tow 17,000.

Thanks. I stopped by the RAM dealer on the way home - drive right past it anyway - and drove a 2014 2500 6.7L cummins and it's a nice ride. Did you research how RAM achieved such a high tow rating? The sales person really didn't know. It's like 3,000+ over Ford's F250.

[myredracer]

I'd look at a truck's actual payload capacity and a TT's actual tongue wt. before you look at choosing a stronger receiver.

With all the options you want on the F250, the actual payload capacity could be a lot lower than what you expect. Ours with 4WD, supercab, long box and a canopy is down to 1800 lbs because of the added weight. If you want to be able to have passengers and cargo in the truck, the tongue weight of a 36-38' TT *could* possibly be too much without overloading the truck. Don't go by what the door pillar sticker or literature says for payload cap. And don't go by the advertised dry tongue wt. of a TT to make a buying decision. Tongue wt. can go up substantially, and in some cases, nearly double (like ours).

The longer wheelbase of a supercab (or crewcab) and long box sure is nice and would be better for a longer TT. Unless you really need it, I would not bother with 4WD because it's a big weight penalty plus the truck is higher off the ground. Or go to a 1 ton. I see people saying a lot that they are only a few more $$ anyway.

Maybe for another thread, but FWIW, if you get a crewcab and a long box, you may find that towing a long TT of 36-38' will be a handful for getting around corners, especially on city streets. With only a 29' TT, our F250 with supercab and long box can be "fun" to get around tighter corners sometimes. I find I have to get some turns set up right before entering it otherwise I can brush the tires on the curb or end up over the curb. But, to me a truck is not a truck unless it has a long box. We make use of the full 8' a lot.

[tmm2good]

outwestbound wrote:

ah64id wrote:
Equal-i-zer also makes a 2.5" shank for their 1,400/14,000 model.

These Equal-i-zer hitches look good; about $475 including shank.

I really appreciate the forum input.

This is what I have, works fine.

[outwestbound]

JBarca wrote:
Also, where did you find the $1,500 cost for a 2.5" setup? That does not sound right.

You're right; my $1,500 figure was way too high because I erroneously selected a torklift superhitch Everest for 20,000 which is about $1350 on etrailer.com plus the shank. Thanks for pointing that out. Selecting any of the 2.5"s suggested in this thread + appropriate shank is much less; 2.5" WD hitches $500 - $600 + shanks $125 - $150.

Thanks for everyone's input; very helpful. It seems clear to me now that using a 2.5" shank/ WD hitch set up best utilizes what the F250 offers.

[Highway_4x4]

I called up Blue ox and they have a 2 1/2 inch shank but it's not shown on line yet. BTW, my Ram 2500 diesel is rated to tow 17,000.

[bretm151]

outwestbound wrote:

bretm151 wrote:
The only catch is that the WDH limits are about 1500 pounds with a 2" receiver (you can get a 1700 Reese with the 2.5"), but that was enough for my use.

Thanks to all. This option is a fraction of going the $1500 2.5" route and I'm happy with whichever works best.

When you say 1500 pounds, do you mean max tongue 1500 and max towing 15000? I found a Reese WD RP66131 rated 1500/15000 for like.

Until you posted, I didn't know a class V 2" existed. If this options is as mechanically sound as the more expensive 2.5" WD rig, it seems the best option.

That Reese is the 1500/15000 that I was referring to. There is also a 1400/14000 Equalizer, and the ProPride/Hensely are rated at 1400/14,000 as well.

Bret "Can you tell I'm hitch shopping..."

[camperfamily]

Not on the hitch topic but you mention the short vs long bed. My 2¢ is get the long. More storage, more wheel base, maybe a better ride. And while your at it seriously consider stepping up to a F350 SRW for the added payload capacity. Your talking about a lot of tongue weight, plus passengers, cargo in the truck. It adds up way too fast for my personal comfort.

[JBarca]

outwestbound wrote:


Thanks to all. This option is a fraction of going the $1500 2.5" route and I'm happy with whichever works best.

Until you posted, I didn't know a class V 2" existed. If this options is as mechanically sound as the more expensive 2.5" WD rig, it seems the best option.

Hi,

If you want to maximize the largest TT to fit your nice new truck, I myself would get the 2.5" receiver and not look back. I had to upgrade my 2005 F350 to get increased capacity to hold up my TT tongue weight. Reese has the 2.5" shank which tapers to 2" going into the hitch head.





When I am fully loaded, my TW is 1,600#. Floor plan of the TT and size of the camper declare where you can load the camper. While truck manufactures like to make receivers with a WD rating 10% of the pull rating, that does not do us folks towing TT's a lot of good.

If you get a 2" receiver, you will limit yourself to certain campers. There are still a lot of TT in the 1,200# TW range, however you started the post with maximizing the TV.

Also, where did you find the $1,500 cost for a 2.5" setup? That does not sound right.

Hope this helps and good luck with the new rig

John

[AH64ID]

That seems a little low for an equal-i-zer.

You would need a 90-00-1401 14K shankless hitch, and a 90-02-4700 (or variant based on height) 2 1/2" shank.

The hitch should be ±$500 and the shank ±$130. If you found them cheaper by all means post up a link.

[Lynnmor]

The $15 adapter came with my truck. I agree that you should use the 2-1/2" if you can so that there is less play.