Anode Rod Rusted Tight

[craigandsue]

I have not used my truck camper in a year so I sanitized the water tank. I tried to then drain the water heater and the anode rod is rusted tight and will not break loose. I tried WD-40 and liquid wrench. Worried I am going to strip the head or break it. Any ideas?

[N7SJN]

Suburban tank replaced in January this year. This week took out the anode to check and had to use a cheater. I guess the water is a lot harder than I thought. BTW the RV sat for three months w/o being used. I need to buy another anode for backup.

[granite]

Just had same problem on "new to us" van camper. WD 40 soaked on it overnight and used ratchet with breaker bar pipe to persuade loose. Anode was gone. Previous owner never looked at it. Also smelled a slight propane leak, replaced the gas valve, and water heater works fine.

[Johnny_G1]

And that is why I use Attwood tanks, no bloody anode to deal with. Just a nice plastic plug to bust off when you get to tough with the socket. Lol

[Old-Biscuit]

j-d wrote:
I stand corrected. Chris is the one who knows, if he says "Wrench it" then that's what's most likely to work.

Chris and Doug are very knowledgeable........Not the only ones.

[GMandJM]

A well-used anode rod:

[coolbreeze01]

I always use a 1/2" drive breaker bar and cheater. Can't remember the socket size.

It will come out.

[j-d]

I stand corrected. Chris is the one who knows, if he says "Wrench it" then that's what's most likely to work.

[Chris_Bryant]

Just use a longer breaker bar- I would not use an impact wrench, except as a last resort.

And yeah- Suburban tanks are porcelain lined- except for the last weld installing the flame cup; the tank is welded except for that cup, a robot arm sprays the slurry inside the tank, it is fired, then the cup is welded in. That last weld is what the anode is protecting (along with any breaks in the lining).

[j-d]

Yep, Suburban uses a porcelain-lined (always thought it was "glass-lined" but comes down to same thing, namely a little fragile) STEEL tank. And an Anode Rod. The other brand, Atwood, uses an Aluminum Tank, NO Anode, and drains through a threaded plastic plug.
Thinking about this, I'd spray penetrant for sure, and try an impact driver on the anode. My choice would be one that can be set to just "tap" at it, or at least isn't all that powerful. For example, I have a 1/2" air impact that I can set low, and/or reduce air pressure supplying it. My 1/2" electric impact is an all-or-nothing thing and wouldn't be my first choice. I'd be tempted to try my cordless impact screw gun, trigger adjustable. I know it's only a "screwdriver" but I've used it to dismantle compressors and small engines. It's that "rattle" you want, shouldn't need brute force torque.

[Lynnmor]

GordonThree wrote:

Old-Biscuit wrote:
I love some of the suggestions......
pound on it, torch it, heat/chill it

Don't worry......the porcelain lining won't crack

Penetrating oil. Spray it/let it soak
Then tighten a bit to break bond then remove back/forth

since when are they putting porcelain linings in RV wh? I would think all the bouncing and jostling while rolling 10s of thousands of road miles would do more damage to any lining than heating the iron plug with a torch for a few minutes.

no lining in mine, just straight aluminum, I looked in that hole with a flashlight once.

From Suburban's website:


Select electronically controlled water heaters are perfect for adverse weather conditions with its direct spark ignition(DSI) featuring a remote switch which can be used to conveniently light the water heater from inside your camper/RV! Heaters are porcelain-lined and feature an electrolytic action absorbing anode rod extending your heaters life for years to come. Whether the heater is 3, 6, 10, or 12 gallon it's no matter at 10.2 gallons it has the fastest recovery the industry has to offer providing more gallons of heated water for your pleasure. A heat retaining Copolymer jacket is fitted to keep the heat close, ensuring none escapes. Recover even more utilizing the 1,440 watt element with optional electric and gas water heaters that can recover up to 6 gallons per hour. On select models the Re-ignitor eliminates the need to relight your pilot keeping the heat recovery action consistent. Installation, operation, and maintenance are all easy as they are simple.

[GordonThree]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
I love some of the suggestions......
pound on it, torch it, heat/chill it

Don't worry......the porcelain lining won't crack

Penetrating oil. Spray it/let it soak
Then tighten a bit to break bond then remove back/forth

since when are they putting porcelain linings in RV wh? I would think all the bouncing and jostling while rolling 10s of thousands of road miles would do more damage to any lining than heating the iron plug with a torch for a few minutes.

no lining in mine, just straight aluminum, I looked in that hole with a flashlight once.

[Dave_H_M]

I would work on it with an impact after soaking. Start with low air pressure and rattle on it a bit.

If it wasn't mine, I would try a big adz cheater bar. :W

On second thought go with the big adz cheater bar.

[old_guy]

we race car mechanics try tighten them first. that may break it loose for you. it just takes a little to break it loose.

[rrev]

Soak what you can get to of the threads with vinegar.