โMay-24-2013 03:28 PM
Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.
โMay-28-2013 01:03 PM
Raften wrote:
I get it that crimps seem to be the better choice but it brings up the question of what is a proper crimp tool. Some of the cheap stuff I see does not look like it will do that good of a job. I'm guessing that on most crimping tools you need a nib that pushes down both sides at the crimp split, not just mashing everything.
โMay-28-2013 11:29 AM
โMay-28-2013 10:54 AM
โMay-27-2013 02:46 PM
โMay-26-2013 11:03 AM
MotorPro wrote:
Simpe answer--either one done correcty will last---either one done poorly will not last
โMay-26-2013 06:30 AM
โMay-26-2013 06:21 AM
โMay-26-2013 04:32 AM
โMay-25-2013 08:12 PM
Dakzuki wrote:gcloss wrote:
Soldering is always preferred over just crimping.
Not true. One must be very careful soldering as wire can fatigue and fail right next to the rigid solder joint. This is especially true in higher vibration environments.
In aerospace virtually all joints are crimped. The difference is the terminals are good quality (as are the crimping tools). Both can be had by the consumer (I have them) and it doesn't cost much more to do it right. Finding good wire is more problematic.
A crimper that looks like this is what you want.
This is what you want to avoid...both the el cheapo terminals AND the crimper.
โMay-25-2013 11:38 AM
da.bees wrote:
I have a Schumacher charger that I thought was going bad because charge rate jumps up and down. Noticed a spark from postive clamp handle and on closer inspection,the cripmed connection is bad. No corosion,no broken wires and no crack in crimp but gentely moving the handle or wire causes continuity to come and go. Who should know crimping technique better than Schumacher? I say crimp it then solder it. I believe corosion at soldered joints are the result of wrong flux,filler and/or failure to clean flux residue from completed joint.
โMay-25-2013 11:35 AM
gcloss wrote:
Soldering is always preferred over just crimping.
โMay-25-2013 09:36 AM
โMay-25-2013 08:48 AM
da.bees wrote:
I have a Schumacher charger that I thought was going bad because charge rate jumps up and down. Noticed a spark from postive clamp handle and on closer inspection,the cripmed connection is bad. No corosion,no broken wires and no crack in crimp but gentely moving the handle or wire causes continuity to come and go. Who should know crimping technique better than Schumacher? I say crimp it then solder it. I believe corosion at soldered joints are the result of wrong flux,filler and/or failure to clean flux residue from completed joint.
โMay-25-2013 06:52 AM
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โMay-25-2013 12:05 AM