Strange Inconsistant Engine Starting Problem

[lckign]

I have a 2008 Fleetwood Bounder with Ford Chassis (F53?) and Triton v10 engine which is having odd and inconsistent starting.
Here's what has happened.
1. Battery dead, obviously doesn't start.
2. Charge battery and start in various ways.
3. Battery wont hold charge so buy a new battery (tech /sales claims hot and expanded battery is sign of internal battery short). Vehicle starts OK. so I begin my trip.
4. Stop for lunch. Vehicle wont start. No click, no sounds, no nothing.
5. Hook up charger and start vehicle.
6. Back at RV park I fool around with my volt meter attachment, disconnect my solar trickle and try it. Vehicle starts.
7. reattach meter and trickle, Vehicle starts.

Since I don't want to start off again and get stranded I need to find out what is going on. Local garages won't touch this vehicle/ignition/elect. problem. Any Suggestions??

[theoldwizard1]

Start with the simple things.

Using a DMM, check the voltage at the battery posts, both running and with the key in the OfF position. Running, it should be between 13.5V and 14.5V. Key OFF (assuming the battery is fully charged), it should be above 12.0V. It should STAY at that value even after an hour or 2 of resting.

Most DMM have the capability of check DC amps. The trick with checking amps is that you have to start with the HIGHEST SCALE and work your way down. Again, MOST DMM have a special plug for their 10A scale. Start by plugging you test lead into that hole. Remove the positive battery cable from the battery and connect the DMM between the positive battery cable and the positive battery post. If you are get more than about 0.010A you have a "parasitic" draw. It may go higher for a few seconds and then back down again (computer wakes up to check something and then goes back to sleep).

It is most likely associated with something in the coach not the chassis itself.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Ummmmm...a question if I may...

¿How does battery recharging efficacy reconcile with any of the above?

[j-d]

DrewE wrote:
Having a completely dead dash, no dome light, etc. after a comparatively brief stop generally means that the connection to the battery is open somewhere.

On the Fords, the main power into the chassis is drawn off the battery cable side of that Relay I mentioned. In a recent case, OP replaced the Relay and put it on the Starter Cable side. Well, nothing happens till that Relay is energized, and the power to energize it isn't connected...

[DrewE]

While there are many possibilities, I'm with j-d on checking the battery cables and their connections thoroughly first. I, too, have seen more than one battery cable that at first glance looks OK but actually is intermittent or disconnected due to corrosion at or near the terminals. Also check the other ends of the cables, in particular the ground connection on the negative cable; sometimes these can rust etc.

Having a completely dead dash, no dome light, etc. after a comparatively brief stop generally means that the connection to the battery is open somewhere. It's possible that the new battery may be bad intermittently, too, although that would not be my first guess.

[ksg5000]

Start with the obvious/easy stuff. Starter relay and loose/corroded ground would be high on my list. Had a car which had similar problems and dealer couldn't find the problem - neighbor mechanic discovered loose wire in ignition system. Go figure.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

The Magic Word is...

CHECK
CHECK
CHECK

guessing is fruitless. Even a crystal ball itself is an instrument.

Purchase a digital volt meter at any any parts store then return to your computer. Folks here will guide you step by step.

[lj2654]

solenoid or if not that the ignition switch could be the intermittent problem.

[time2roll]

Where is the part where you check the alternator charging system?
Get it started and at least check the voltage on the actual battery terminals.
Post the results.

[j-d]

Don't rule out bad Battery Cables. We've had recent cases where the molded factory terminal ends looked good but the connections were failed internally.

Also, you have a Starter Relay (called Solenoid by many) BEFORE your Starter Motor. Easy to find on a Class C, I don't know where it is on F-53, but it has a large battery cable TO it (from Battery Positive) and down to the Starter Motor on the opposite terminal. It has to be mounted to a grounded surface, and the small wire is what energizes the Relay from your Ignition Switch in Start position.

Jump the small terminal with the cable FROM the Battery, and the Relay should engage the Starter. That can be done with a light gauge wire. You can also jump the two Large terminals with a Booster Cable or a big pair of pliers. That too should cause the Starter to crank.

Finally, starter, too, has its own Solenoid. It's a different setup from GM where the wire from the Key goes to the Solenoid. In Ford, the Solenoid on the Starter cranks every time it sees power coming down from that Relay I mentioned.

A friend called me from out of state, Class A/F-53 wouldn't start. Battery was both Dead, and Bad. Wouldn't start with a new battery. Had to replace Starter. I'm beginning to draw the conclusion that trying to start a Ford with a weak Battery can damage the Starter. I think my friend also replaced the Relay...

[enblethen]

Does the dash indicator lamps come on? If no check the main fuses adjacent to the starter relay on fire wall.