Fiver Guy Seeking Help With 1st TC (Need TC Education)

[Mike3]

Hello everyone, this is my second post on the TC forum. My previous one was getting info on how to make my F450 with a 5th wheel bed work for a TC. Thanks to folks here I think I got that figured out.

Now I need help in trying to choose the right TC for my needs. I have a lot of experience with 5th wheels but zero with TCs. I have a 2004 F450 with a heavy duty bed and airbags so I think I can handle most any TC but I need help with a TC education. The closest dealer is over 200 miles from me so I'm hoping to get basics from you guys.

I want a TC mainly for solo use with my dog and my Harley. I'm planning a 4-6 week trip out west pulling a trailer with my bike and I will also use it locally for similar outings. I will continue to use the Fiver when my DW wants to go and she or my grandkids may join me on occasion in the TC. So here are some newbie questions I need help with.

1. What are the positives and negatives to a side entrance? Do all side entrance TC extend well beyond the truck bed?

2. What are the positives and negatives of a wet bath vs a dry bath. Based on reading here the wet bath allows more space for other area with the downside being you have to dry it manually after each use. Anything else?

3. I plan to tow a trailer with a motorcycle, about 2K. How should that impact my choice and do I need any additional hardware for that?

4. Do most folks have a built in generator? Currently I have a Honda 2000 to charge fiver batteries. Will it run the AC in a TC?

5. Is backing under the TC and hooking up easily done by yourself? I've never seen this done.

6. How much clearance (inches) between your truck fenders and the TC jacks is normal? I think with my bed I will have about 1.5" on either side.

7. What are good tie downs and how much should I expect to pay for them and installation.

8. What's the difference in mileage and handling with a TC wight of 4K vs 5K? Current pin weight is about 3K with my fiver. I would think my mpg would be better since I want have the huge fiver drag, is that correct?

9. Lastly, since I don't want to start a brand war. I want a quality unit that I hopefully will not have to drive hundreds of miles to return for repairs. After reading much here it sounds like Arctic Fox and Lance are among the better quality units. What is the major differences between the two brands other than AF is heavier?

Thank you for your help. I know this is kind of long.

[bens170]

Mike@Asheville,
You will also need to remove the 5'er hitch and make a platform for the rails so the camper and rest on the wood and not touch the rails. The 5'er tailgate will have to be removed. Look at Truck Camper Magazine.com an excellent source of information.

[Mike3]

Thanks Bedlam and everyone else, I appreciate your helpfulness.

[Bedlam]

Torklift should have frame mounts made for full length running boards that will work on your truck.

The larger campers I referenced have up to 75 gallon fresh water tanks.

[Mike3]

Thanks again folks, good info here. It is a full size long bed so that is not an issue. It sounds like the big issues to be decided are: wet/dry bath, rear/side entrance and how much I want to spend.

I'm coming from a 36" Fiver with 4 slides, 100 gallons of fresh water, 100 grey and 50 black and yes we dry camp a lot when it's cool enough we do not need A/C; which here in the mtns. is most of the time. So tank capacity is important as I'm planning some long trips. I think I read AF has higher capacity than most, is that correct.

I'm posting a couple of new pics to show the running boards. What do you guys think may be the best tie down solution?

I looked on line at Host, Adventurer and Eagle Cap however no dealers within 1,000 miles. The only brands within 200-300 are AF and Lance. I'm pretty sure I'd like a passenger side slide; one that allows access when closed if possible. Do either of the two above offer this layout? What other layout issues should I be considering?

[homefor2]

I noticed most here vote for the dry bath but not me. I like the extra floor space in the camper with the wet bath and it is NOT necessary to dry it after a shower. I simply take a small squeegee and dry the floor then throw a small carpet down. Open the vent and the door and it will be dry in no time. Takes all of 60 seconds or less to dry the floor. I've never dried the rest of the bath. For me, having more space in the camper is much more important than the 4 minutes I'm using the shower.

One question you did not ask is about the size of tanks. Unless you will always have hook-ups, don't overlook the size of the tanks. Many campers have puny tanks that only allow you to dry camp for a couple of days.

[Bedlam]

1. Side entry allows a lower step into the TC and easier access when towing. We have a rear entry door and tow 2/3rds of the time - I don't mind climbing on the tongue when we make stops, but my DW does.

2. In our small TC, a wet bath makes sense to save space. If you get a larger TC, a dry bath is more convenient since you have place to hang wet things without taking over the bathroom.

3. You will need to run an extension off your hitch to tow. If the total weight is under 3000 lbs and you have a Class V receiver, a simple extension with triangulated chains will be fine. If you want to tow more, go for the SuperHitch with SuperTruss so you can use a WDH.

4. A 2000w generator can be used, but you must be careful to select a low power air conditioner. I prefer a built in unit due to the convenience: I do not need to haul additional fuel or generator somewhere, It is push button operation from inside and LPG does not gum the carburetor like ethanol gasoline when you let it sit.

5. I back the truck under TC myself. It does take practice, but it is easier each time you do it.

6. I watch my bed opening and keep it close on the driver side. If I use this as guide, the jacks and other side clears.

7. Since you have a custom bed, I would not attempt to use the Happi Jack system that attaches to the bed and bumper. Torklift bolts to the the frame and is typically a no-drill setup. Once you decide on the tie down, shop the Internet for pricing and see if the dealer will give you a good bundled price when you purchase the TC.

8. The draft on a TC is similar to a fifth wheel, so do not expect better mileage. If your combination is lighter, you will pull hills better and have better acceleration. I am at the same GCW with my TC and enclosed trailer as I was with toy hauler, so see little mileage difference unless driving in the mountains without the trailer.

9. I like my Arctic Fox, but they do not make a side door model (which might affect my next purchase). Look at Host, Chalet, Lance and Eagle Cap for large dry bath side door models.

The larger TC's will have a basement (sub floor). This area will contain storage and holding tanks. Some models build the floor over the wheel wells which will keep the center of gravity lower, but will reduce space for tanks and storage and require steps up to slides and the bath. Other models build out the floor above the rails. These floor plans allow for a flat floor and large storage at the expense of taller overall height and higher CG.

[tad94564]

If it's a short bed, get the Host Aspen triple slide w/side entry.

The #1 advantage to side entry is the fact if your towing, you do not have to work around a hitch and wiring to get into the camper. I've had people step on and damage wiring doing this with my previous camper.

Dry vs. Wet bath is all personal preference. The Host Mammoth/Aspen series have a HUGE dry bath, that is probably the biggest on the market. I can easily change clothes, take a shower, and still have plenty of room.

[Super_Dave]

You said you got your 5er bed problem figured out but not sure what you are doing there. The truck picture in this thread almost looks like a short bed to me? If that is the case for your solution, most of these responses go out the window as to what camper you would put on a short bed.

[mkirsch]

6. How much clearance (inches) between your truck fenders and the TC jacks is normal? I think with my bed I will have about 1.5" on either side.

You will only have about 3/4" per side at the wheel wells in the bed of the truck. More clearance outside actually makes it HARDER to load because you can get off-track and hit the wheel wells with the camper.

[805gregg]

One problem with a side entry is the slide is on the drivers side, say you pull over to have lunch parked parallel to the road, now any view is on the passenger side and your slide is out in the traffic

[3_tons]

Mike@Asheville wrote:
Thanks guys, some good info. My truck bed rails are only 13" vs 19" for normal pickup. Can someone explain what a basement model is and how it's different from others. Which would work best with the lower bed rails?

The 'basement' just means that there is an interior subfloor and beneath that a like sized storage area that also contains the water and waste tanks, waste lines and genny compartment...All of the bigger campers will have this kind of basement...With a basement the TC will be taller and have a slightly higher CG too, but well worth the extra interior storage space (e.g. no tanks hidden inside cabinetry)...Note that with your 13" tall bed rails there will be a larger visual gap between rail top and TC wing, especially so with a basement...This might be a big bonus though, since you could have some great metal storage boxes built that would nicely fill in the gap!

On Edit, a P.S....Using a 40" extension, I tow a 16' x 7' enclosed trailer, and when loaded have measured about a 500# tongue weight. Quite honestly (other than in the mirrors) I can't hardly tell its even back there!

[Reality_Check]

Just a couple of quick comments.

Bathroom: wife and I were convinced we wanted a wet bath, mostly for the massive amount of counter space it offered, and also for the ease in cleaning. Well, we found the right rig at the right price at the right time with the wrong bath.

So I read a bunch of opinions. One jumped out; the writer stated that he had owned both, and the difference was that in a dry bath, the bathroom stuff went in the bathroom. In a wet bath, you have bath stuff jammed in the main cabin.

Cleaning? I was wrong. It's a bathroom and they're all easy to clean. It would have worked either way for us, but we're happy.

Of course, it would be easier to wash the dog in the wet bath...

Trailers; there are so many threads and opinions on these pages, not sure mine will make a difference.

2k pounds? I wouldn't even think about it beyond hooking it up.

Mileage? There is weight, wind resistance and rolling resistance. Yes, your mileage will probably increase some. Like as in a hiccup.

Good luck and happy hunting...

[Mike3]

Thanks guys, some good info. My truck bed rails are only 13" vs 19" for normal pickup. Can someone explain what a basement model is and how it's different from others. Which would work best with the lower bed rails?

Im having the rear of the bed cut out at bed level to make a removable tailgate. I'll have to take to a shop to see the best type of tie downs with my running boards.

Thanks for the invite to the shindig in November. I might like to go and let you guys look at my truck and get some first hand advice. Maybe I could tour some TCs while there.

[dadwolf2]

3 tons wrote:

Yeti plus wrote:
Some good replies, but I just noticed the built in running boards that are under the bed. They will likely cause problems for any tie downs.

IF running boards extend outward too far, the other up front option would be HappiJac front tie-downs.

I've owned both major brands and I wouldn't want Happijac tied-downs for the size camper he is most likely going to get.

OP might try contacting Torklift directly.