Towing without load level bars or sway control

[4x4crazy]

I'm looking at new jayco jay feather trailers and in specific the 24rlsw model. Weight is about 5200lbs dry 7000lbs gross. I'd be pulling it with my 2017 f250 super duty with the diesel. Debating if I should even use load leveling or sway control. Ford says there's no need. My truck also has a built in sway control. Ive read of people towing much more without load leveling hitches with this truck and it's almost thr same weight as my boat. ..im more concerned if not having a weight distribution hitch will be a big issue if I ever go sell it. Looking for opinions

[deltabravo]

I'd recommend using a weight distribution hitch.

Sway Control, that's personal preference. I don't use a sway control doo-hickey on my 20' cargo trailer.

[GrandpaKip]

Boomerweps wrote:

GrandpaKip wrote:


Were you squirmin’ like a toad? (Sorry, couldn’t resist)

Nah, the pumped up tires & WDH built in sway control took care of that 😉

In the the song it was "His brain is squirmin' like toad"

Sad thing is I could rewrite the whole song as an RV parody 😉

Love it!

[Boomerweps]

GrandpaKip wrote:


Were you squirmin’ like a toad? (Sorry, couldn’t resist)

Nah, the pumped up tires & WDH built in sway control took care of that 😉

In the the song it was "His brain is squirmin' like toad"

Sad thing is I could rewrite the whole song as an RV parody 😉

[mountainkowboy]

GrandpaKip wrote:

Boomerweps wrote:
Wow!
You would not believe the **** I took on another forum when I asked about the need for a WDH.
I was going to kill all their children basically.
I figured the same, within all specs, about 85% capacity on the worst spec. So when I said I was going to drive my new TT home from the dealer without a WDH, the S hit the fan. I’m a killer on the road, to quote Jim Morrison and the bulk of the replying posters!
I did get a great deal on a used WDH from the dealer but otherwise I would have done my test first.

Yes, I would believe it. There are so many ignorant people out there when it comes to mass and simple machines, it can be frightening. I, too, was going to kill everybody on the road when I pulled our camper with a (gasp) Nissan Frontier.
However, I will always have some type of sway control, especially for emergencies.

Were you squirmin’ like a toad? (Sorry, couldn’t resist)

Hahaha...yup there's alot of'um that think you need twice the towing capacity to tow safely...it's hilarious. We've been looking at a 28 foot TT to tow behind Red with a Harley dresser in the bed. Red hauls a 4,500lb TC on her back most of the time, so the 1,000lb Harley along with the 1,000lb hitch weight would give her a break.

[Camper_G]

As others have said...as long as your loaded trailer tongue weight Is within the capacity of your receiver, give it a go and make your own decision.

I have towed my 6k Layton several times with no wdh and had no issues. It hardly squatted the rear of my dodge at all.

The only things I noted was the camper seemed to bounce a bit more with no wdh and I heard more slop in the 2"adapter without wdh engaged.

Beyond that it's a good tow. I run no wdh on short local trips. If I'm going on a long highway run I'll use wdh and sway control just for added safety. Just my .02 and what I do. Good luck.

[Hannibal]

We towed our 32' TT for a year with WD and no sway control. It towed fine. Only reason for the WDH was to satisfy the rating of the receiver. Otherwise, I'd drop it on the ball and go. The Equalizer 4 point feels stiff but not necessarily better I my humble opinion. I'd try it and see.

[GrandpaKip]

Boomerweps wrote:
Wow!
You would not believe the **** I took on another forum when I asked about the need for a WDH.
I was going to kill all their children basically.
I figured the same, within all specs, about 85% capacity on the worst spec. So when I said I was going to drive my new TT home from the dealer without a WDH, the S hit the fan. I’m a killer on the road, to quote Jim Morrison and the bulk of the replying posters!
I did get a great deal on a used WDH from the dealer but otherwise I would have done my test first.

Yes, I would believe it. There are so many ignorant people out there when it comes to mass and simple machines, it can be frightening. I, too, was going to kill everybody on the road when I pulled our camper with a (gasp) Nissan Frontier.
However, I will always have some type of sway control, especially for emergencies.

Were you squirmin’ like a toad? (Sorry, couldn’t resist)

[Boomerweps]

Wow!
You would not believe the **** I took on another forum when I asked about the need for a WDH.
I was going to kill all their children basically.
I figured the same, within all specs, about 85% capacity on the worst spec. So when I said I was going to drive my new TT home from the dealer without a WDH, the S hit the fan. I’m a killer on the road, to quote Jim Morrison and the bulk of the replying posters!
I did get a great deal on a used WDH from the dealer but otherwise I would have done my test first.

[Huntindog]

Gdetrailer wrote:

Vintage465 wrote:
The only topic more touchy than "to WD or not" is "Dodge vs every other diesel". Then you have the 6v batteries in series vs single/parallel 12v and gas vs diesel. Truth is none of these matter as much as the WD subject. Your rig will always tow better with a properly set up W.D. hitch. In your case it has NOTHING to do with the capability of your pick-up. Nothing to do with how much it pushes your truck down on rear springs. It has to do with the fact that you have 6 to 8 hundred pounds pounding you every time you hit a decent size bump or swell in the road or hiway. When the back end of the truck goes down on a bump or bridge approach...........the front axle of the truck goes up.........it's a fact...can be no other way. A properly set up W.D. will minimize this as it spreads the weight across the whole truck. Visualize in your mind the trailer pushing down on both axles at a time vs one axle at a time.

So.. in YOUR "wise wisdom" can you explain HOW to apply WD to a SLIDE IN TRUCK CAMPER?

Yeah, you can't.

And there is no need to.... Because your example is apples to oranges.

TW is carried BEHIND the rear axle 100%. That means that it is ALL on the rear axle, which acts as a fulcrum reducing weight on the front axle. (this is undisputable, and has been proven many times on scales and with a tape measure)

A slide in truck camper has some of its weight carried by the front axle, as it 's weight is mostly forwards of the rear axle.... IOW, very similar to a TT with WD in use.

[Vintage465]

Gdetrailer wrote:

Vintage465 wrote:
The only topic more touchy than "to WD or not" is "Dodge vs every other diesel". Then you have the 6v batteries in series vs single/parallel 12v and gas vs diesel. Truth is none of these matter as much as the WD subject. Your rig will always tow better with a properly set up W.D. hitch. In your case it has NOTHING to do with the capability of your pick-up. Nothing to do with how much it pushes your truck down on rear springs. It has to do with the fact that you have 6 to 8 hundred pounds pounding you every time you hit a decent size bump or swell in the road or hiway. When the back end of the truck goes down on a bump or bridge approach...........the front axle of the truck goes up.........it's a fact...can be no other way. A properly set up W.D. will minimize this as it spreads the weight across the whole truck. Visualize in your mind the trailer pushing down on both axles at a time vs one axle at a time.

So.. in YOUR "wise wisdom" can you explain HOW to apply WD to a SLIDE IN TRUCK CAMPER?

Yeah, you can't.

Towing a trailer which IS within the trucks capabilities AND all specifications without WD does no harm, does not cause accidents.

The ONLY thing WD can do in this case is SLIGHTLY reduce the front end "porpoising". Basically THE SAME porpoising HAPPENS to trucks carrying a SLIDE IN TRUCK CAMPER OR ANY LOAD IN THE BED.

From my own experience with TCs AND bumper pull trailer towing I have much less porpoising towing my TT without WD than what you get with a TC.

It TAKES a stable, stout platform to do this, don't try this with a F150 or any other half ton.. It IS the reason why I intentionally skip the half ton crowd of trucks. Half ton koolaid drinkers do not get it..

900 lbs on the F250/F350 truck hitch is pretty much like having 1800 lbs on the center of truck bed and rear axle..

Maybe you can come up with a WD for slide in truck camper users and scare them into using it..

TRY without, if the porpoising action is objectionable then perhaps try with WD..

I am always amazed just how deep the pro WD crowd likes to scare folks into something that sometimes in some cases is not needed and is dead weight and lost money..

OP in this case has NOTHING TO LOSE by trying without, they have a trailer which IS fully within ALL specs of the tow vehicle (yes, INCLUDING THE HITCH) without WD..

Sorry this hurt your pride. Notice I said and addressed his pickup. Not talking about any F150. Talking about his pickup. And and slide in camper spreads it's weight over half the truck and not just on the tail end. And many slide in camper rigs use air bags and/or helper springs to assist rock and roll. Not all I'm sure but many. Used to be in this business. Too many people get caught up in the "it don't push my truck down but 2 inches....she's good. Time to close this thread.

[Gdetrailer]

Vintage465 wrote:
The only topic more touchy than "to WD or not" is "Dodge vs every other diesel". Then you have the 6v batteries in series vs single/parallel 12v and gas vs diesel. Truth is none of these matter as much as the WD subject. Your rig will always tow better with a properly set up W.D. hitch. In your case it has NOTHING to do with the capability of your pick-up. Nothing to do with how much it pushes your truck down on rear springs. It has to do with the fact that you have 6 to 8 hundred pounds pounding you every time you hit a decent size bump or swell in the road or hiway. When the back end of the truck goes down on a bump or bridge approach...........the front axle of the truck goes up.........it's a fact...can be no other way. A properly set up W.D. will minimize this as it spreads the weight across the whole truck. Visualize in your mind the trailer pushing down on both axles at a time vs one axle at a time.

So.. in YOUR "wise wisdom" can you explain HOW to apply WD to a SLIDE IN TRUCK CAMPER?

Yeah, you can't.

Towing a trailer which IS within the trucks capabilities AND all specifications without WD does no harm, does not cause accidents.

The ONLY thing WD can do in this case is SLIGHTLY reduce the front end "porpoising". Basically THE SAME porpoising HAPPENS to trucks carrying a SLIDE IN TRUCK CAMPER OR ANY LOAD IN THE BED.

From my own experience with TCs AND bumper pull trailer towing I have much less porpoising towing my TT without WD than what you get with a TC.

It TAKES a stable, stout platform to do this, don't try this with a F150 or any other half ton.. It IS the reason why I intentionally skip the half ton crowd of trucks. Half ton koolaid drinkers do not get it..

900 lbs on the F250/F350 truck hitch is pretty much like having 1800 lbs on the center of truck bed and rear axle..

Maybe you can come up with a WD for slide in truck camper users and scare them into using it..

TRY without, if the porpoising action is objectionable then perhaps try with WD..

I am always amazed just how deep the pro WD crowd likes to scare folks into something that sometimes in some cases is not needed and is dead weight and lost money..

OP in this case has NOTHING TO LOSE by trying without, they have a trailer which IS fully within ALL specs of the tow vehicle (yes, INCLUDING THE HITCH) without WD..

[Vintage465]

The only topic more touchy than "to WD or not" is "Dodge vs every other diesel". Then you have the 6v batteries in series vs single/parallel 12v and gas vs diesel. Truth is none of these matter as much as the WD subject. Your rig will always tow better with a properly set up W.D. hitch. In your case it has NOTHING to do with the capability of your pick-up. Nothing to do with how much it pushes your truck down on rear springs. It has to do with the fact that you have 6 to 8 hundred pounds pounding you every time you hit a decent size bump or swell in the road or hiway. When the back end of the truck goes down on a bump or bridge approach...........the front axle of the truck goes up.........it's a fact...can be no other way. A properly set up W.D. will minimize this as it spreads the weight across the whole truck. Visualize in your mind the trailer pushing down on both axles at a time vs one axle at a time.

[mgirardo]

drsteve wrote:

theoldwizard1 wrote:
No proof, but I think some states REQUIRE WDH on trailers over 5000 lbs. Brake for sure.

MI requires brakes on anything over 3K pounds. Never heard of a WD requirement. I see RV delivery drivers coming up I-69 from Indiana all the time with new TTs and no WD.

Most states require trailer brakes. I've never seen or heard of any state requiring WDH.

-Michael

[DustyR]

drsteve wrote:
Make sure your truck's receiver is rated for the tongue weight without WD.

X-2

My thoughts also.