Firstly, if the OP has low pressure, it's very likely to be the CG that he's at and there's nothing you can do to boost pressure from the CG supply. I would check the filter screen at the city water inlet to see if it is clear. Maybe the check valve at the city water inlet is plugged?
I would try the TT at home or at another CG to see if the same thing is happening.
A regulator is highly recommended to protect against high pressure at another CG. I have read reports of it getting as high as around 200 psi in some cases which can do serious damage.
Those inline exterior "regulators" are simply a flow restrictor that has a small hole in it of around 1/16" or so. There are no moving parts in it like a TRUE regulator. If someone thinks it really thinks it is more than just an orifice, I would really love to see a link posted to flow/pressure performance curves because I have looked and looked and not found anything. If these do regulate, you should be able to find a flow/prssure curve like for a Watts 263A shown here: Watts 263AThe inline "regulators" get plugged up with sediment/dirt/grit easily and stop working. The worst thing about the inline regulators is when they sit there with zero flow, the pressure will equalize on both sides of the orifice and leave you unprotected.
The best thing to do is get something like the Watts H560 or 263A regulator which can be installed outside or inside. The 560A is around $60 and is pictured below. I installed the 263A inside along with a tell-tale gauge on the inlet which shows a peak pressure of 80 psi so far this year.
I would try the TT at home or at another CG to see if the same thing is happening.
A regulator is highly recommended to protect against high pressure at another CG. I have read reports of it getting as high as around 200 psi in some cases which can do serious damage.
Those inline exterior "regulators" are simply a flow restrictor that has a small hole in it of around 1/16" or so. There are no moving parts in it like a TRUE regulator. If someone thinks it really thinks it is more than just an orifice, I would really love to see a link posted to flow/pressure performance curves because I have looked and looked and not found anything. If these do regulate, you should be able to find a flow/prssure curve like for a Watts 263A shown here: Watts 263AThe inline "regulators" get plugged up with sediment/dirt/grit easily and stop working. The worst thing about the inline regulators is when they sit there with zero flow, the pressure will equalize on both sides of the orifice and leave you unprotected.
The best thing to do is get something like the Watts H560 or 263A regulator which can be installed outside or inside. The 560A is around $60 and is pictured below. I installed the 263A inside along with a tell-tale gauge on the inlet which shows a peak pressure of 80 psi so far this year.
I found the RV water pressure regulators sold at camping stores go bad, often. From being gummed up with iron from CG well water, etc. I too spent some time trying to track down water problems only to find out buying a new pressure regulator fixed the problem.
The plastic ones don't last as long as the brass ones. But that said I have had 2 of the brass ones******out this past year. They don't make them like they used to.
I found the Valterra brass regulators with plastic screw on lasts longer than the Camco reluator does.
And if you buy this one with the meter at least you can see and know WHEN they are broke! :C
I full time so my regulators do get a work out and have to deal with ALL types of nasty CG well water!
The plastic ones don't last as long as the brass ones. But that said I have had 2 of the brass ones******out this past year. They don't make them like they used to.
I found the Valterra brass regulators with plastic screw on lasts longer than the Camco reluator does.
And if you buy this one with the meter at least you can see and know WHEN they are broke! :C
I full time so my regulators do get a work out and have to deal with ALL types of nasty CG well water!
