Suburban Water Heater Problem

[RECVEH2005]

On our Suburban water heater, the 110-volt "side" has quit working. I have been told on this forum that this is because the high limit switch has gone bad.

1. Is it a major job to replace this switch?

2. Does the heater have to be removed to replace it?

3. Have any of you replaced one of these switches yourself?

I would appreciate any of your comments.

Thanks,

Mike

[Merlot]

When my suburban quit wirking on the electrical side it was because one of the wires connected to switch at the water heater burned off. Reason because the spade connection wasn't crimped tight enough. I had to replace the switch and wire.

[Old-Biscuit]

golf_bears wrote:
Where are you located now? Perhaps an adjoining RVer can help you out. Just talk to the RV folks around you and you'll probably run into half a dozen guys willing to help you check it out.

That's what RVer do, help each other out. We're a rare breed!!!!!

X2

A helping hand and a meter.

[golf_bears]

Where are you located now? Perhaps an adjoining RVer can help you out. Just talk to the RV folks around you and you'll probably run into half a dozen guys willing to help you check it out.

That's what RVer do, help each other out. We're a rare breed!!!!!

[RECVEH2005]

golf_bears:

Thanks for your reply. To answer your question, I had asked on the forum while we were traveling early last summer and the responders thought that my problem was the high/low (high limit) switch. After all your responses today, I now know that my problem could be that and/or the on/off switch and/or the heating element.

I'm now thinking that this is all "above my pay grade" and that I'll try to find a good RV service place. Wish me luck with that!

Mike

[golf_bears]

You should be checking the voltage (w/a multi-meter) as it flows in line from the breaker to the heating element. I had a similar problem. Checked with a meter after I verified the breaker hadn't popped. I have an inside switch and an outside switch connected in series. Verified the inside switch was functioning properly (red light was on) then out to the outside switched with the meter. Pulled the switched out, put the meter on the terminals, turned the switch on and off. Switch didn't function every time I turned it on/off. Replaced the switch, $10 or so, and all has been great since then.

How did you verify that the high/low temp switch was defective?

[MPI_Mallard]

I went through everything BUT that stupid on/off switch on the lower left, I popped it out and checked it with the multi-meter and badda' bing badda' boom we have a failure so of course I call suburban for a replacement which was around forty rupees,,,,,right,,,,,,off to Princess Auto (the Canadian version of Northern Tools) and got the exact replacement for four bucks, plug in the wires and we have lift-off, good luck RECVEH2005!!

Red Green:
So remember,If women don't find you handsome,
they can sure find you handy.

[RollandB]

My 110 side problem was the heating element. $9 at Home Depot, $8 for the tool. Bought two elements so one is in the parts box as an extra.

[Old-Biscuit]

110V AC power comes from a circuit breaker to junction box on side of water heater.
From junction box to ON/OFF switch in outside compartment then to set of t-stat (high limit first then down connecting wire to normal t-stat).
From t-stat to/thru electric element.

With cover off t-stat....turn switch ON and check for AC power at terminal on top t-stat......no AC voltage there, then problem is with switch, connection in junction box or circuit breaker.
Got AC voltage.....check for it at normal t-stat and then at element.
Just a simple voltage check until it isn't there.


Personally I like Suburban vs Atwood.
Suburban doesn't use 12V DC to operate the electric heating (Atwood uses a 12V DC relay to activate the AC power to element)
Suburban uses separate sets of t-stats (Atwood uses one set for both electric & propane......problem with t-stat no heating from either source)
Suburban only uses circuit board for propane function (Atwood uses circuit board for both electric & propane due to the integrated use of 12V DC)

Down side.....Suburban uses a steel glass lined tank so an anode rod has to be used (Atwood uses aluminum alloy tank so no anode rod needed) BUT Suburban drain hole is larger so easier to flush.

Technically Atwood distributes propane heat better due to 'U' tube going diagonally across tank (more direct surface area)---Suburban 'U' tube is vertical on right side of tank.
Actually....not much difference in recovery time between the 2 on propane.

[rhagfo]

Grady23 wrote:
Switch is easily checked with a volt meter. Did you check the fuse as well? It could also be the element. I forgot and through the electric to mine without having water in it and the heating element blew INSTANATLY>

This makes the element the first possibility. The cheapo switch is number two, high limit switch is third on the list.

We cooked our element also, got a great replacement from Laurelhurst Distributors. I believe they do mail order, I can drive to them in about 20 minutes.

Laurelhurst Distributors

[Grady23]

Switch is easily checked with a volt meter. Did you check the fuse as well? It could also be the element. I forgot and through the electric to mine without having water in it and the heating element blew INSTANATLY>

[MrVan]

On our suburban water heater the switch went bad right at the water heater. The next thing to check is the heating element itself. If it shows low ohms it is good. If it shows an open it is burned out! Make sure your Volt Ohm Meter shows 0 ohms when you short out the two test leads. In addition to our bad switch I accudently burned out the heating element. Kind of glad I did because the element was badly corroded from the extremely hard water in AZ. Now it heats much better with a new element. If If your problem is not the switch or the element then the thermostat reset may be an issue. Just follow the source of the 110 V to the thermostat. Check that it gets through and then verify it is getting to the heating element. Pretty easy to trouble shoot with a VOM.

[ScottG]

I would double check the cheapo power switch - which is shown in the bottom picture above in the lower left hand corner.
After that it's more likely the element itself is bad. You can verify it with a ohm meter. It should show a low resistance, if it's bad it will be open.

FWIW, I'm on my third RV with a Suburban and the present one is more than ten years old. Not one of them has ever had a problem.

[DiskDoctr]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Surprised your Hitchhiker has a Suburban....they used to use Atwoods :H

Anyway....
On Suburban there is a black cover that goes over the 2 sets of t-stats.
(Outside compartment....above gas valve----has 'Push to Reset')

Left side is 110V AC set of t-stats and right side is 12V DC set of t-stats.

Have you tried resetting the t-stat?

They come in sets (high temp and normal temp)
Replace by removing cover, disconnecting wires and remove nut in center of bracket)

This is a quality post!

[aruba5er]

The fourm suggested the hi limit is bad? did it also suggest that it could be the el cheapo switch that turns it on/off or maybe the element itself is shot? It takes a tester and knowledge to use it. Only you or a service man can do the tests. We can only make assumptions