Cold Weather!

[pconroy328]

This is the first real winter for us in our new-to-us Class C. We took it up to Estes Park yesterday.

Nothing like driving at highway speeds, outside temps of 5* F, to find out all of the outside-air-infiltration paths! 🙂

Cold air was pouring in from the lower kitchen cabinet. I'm guessing that a big contributor could be the outside refridge vent. I may try covering that up a bit then driving some more and seeing if it helps.

I know the motorhomes aren't sealed completely - but that was like driving with a window open.


As a test, I put a small 1500 watt electric heater in the coach last night. Outside temps dropped to 0* F and inside dropped to 49* F. That was with the furnace off. Tonight I'll probably try it with the furnace on and see if I can find a nice balance between propane consumption and warmth.


Electric blankets seem to be harder to find these days. Walmart just had some smaller electric "throw" blankets. The label says 180 watts. I just might try sleeping out there as a test with the throw.


I know most people just park their RVs in the winter, but our kids love travelling in ours. And it's fun having a warm place to climb into when you're out at a distant sledding hill.

[Opie431]

We got our electric blanket at Kuhl's. full size. I would guess that similar stores also have them. Not as cheap as Walmarts but we bought ours in the spring when they were half off.

We also have a down comfortor that works as well.

[magnusfide]

pnichols wrote:
I've read many times of folks who block off their roof vents for maximum heat retention during cold weather.

I question always comes to mind: How do you then maintain some ventilation inside the RV while these are blocked off? We always keep the vents open just a little (we have Maxxaire covers over them) for ventilation .... even in cold weather. This also helps control excessive moisture build-up from cooking and breathing when spending long periods inside.

We've never had a problem with interior condensation because the electric or propane heater dries out the air.

[pnichols]

I've read many times of folks who block off their roof vents for maximum heat retention during cold weather.

I question always comes to mind: How do you then maintain some ventilation inside the RV while these are blocked off? We always keep the vents open just a little (we have Maxxaire covers over them) for ventilation .... even in cold weather. This also helps control excessive moisture build-up from cooking and breathing when spending long periods inside.

[magnusfide]

Deb and Ed M wrote:
I had sheets of Reflectix insulation cut to fit each window; plus the foam pillows in each vent made all the difference in the world!! On our 5th wheel, we could also screw the A/C vents shut, so heat wasn't being lost up the ductwork (and I also put a layer of Saran Wrap over the A/C grill screen, too)

Those pillows work well. The new ones have reflective material on one side to make the pillow last longer in high UV conditions.

If you can get a roll of Reflectex, you can cut it to fit in just about any area under the cabinets too; just keep it clear of wires or heat sources.

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

I had sheets of Reflectix insulation cut to fit each window; plus the foam pillows in each vent made all the difference in the world!! On our 5th wheel, we could also screw the A/C vents shut, so heat wasn't being lost up the ductwork (and I also put a layer of Saran Wrap over the A/C grill screen, too)

[pianotuna]

Find a web site with the symbol. Then cut and paste it. Slow and awkward but it works with any OS that allows pasting.

loggenrock wrote:
First - love the degree symbol!

[ksg5000]

We use two electric heaters set on low - we put them on separate electric circuits to help overloading system. In our rig one is in the front and one in the back. We use the rigs furnace as back up system in case the two electric heaters can't keep up.

Write down the "cold spots" and investigate when you get home - in our rig we found a couple of cavities which we were able to stuff some insulation in - worth a try.

[tippytoe]

Also, before turning engine off, turn the dash air/heater controls to "Recirculate". That will close a flapper that will keep cold air from oozing in through the heater or vent ducts.

[loggenrock]

First - love the degree symbol! Used to do the whole "alt-" thing on my Windows XP machine - not sure how to create it on my Win 8.1 version... Gotta agree with Don - my exterior shower is just a breach in the insulated wall - plumbing isn't even sealed to it (on the list for warmer weather...). Using the propane furnace doesn't mean plumbing gets any more heat than using electric (or some other source) in the coach. Not all furnaces are ducted, or at least ducted towards plumbing. Just need to keep cabinets open to allow warm air to reach the pipes. I've found a little fan helps in that regard. ST

[ncrowley]

I was worried when you said you only used the electric heater. You need to use the propane heat as well as the electric heater because the propane heat will keep your tanks and pipes from freezing. You should use both when the weather gets cold.

[EsoxLucius]

Heated mattress pads work better than electric blankets. Even better with a down comforter over you.

[pianotuna]

Hi Phil,

On my supposedly 4 season RV the shower "cover plate" opened up right under the kitchen cabinets. It was essentially a 5 square inch opening that was covered by a thin sheet of plastic.

[magnusfide]

Our favorite time to camp is in winter. Here are some of our tricks to keep our class c comfortable.

Unless you have double paned windows, they also transmit a lot of cold. We have some old wool military surplus blankets we use as thermal barriers on the windows. Ugly but work great and they multitask as picnic blankets in summer.

Herself created an insulated headboard to fit over the window behind the bed. She took half inch rigid foam insulation from Home Depot; covered it in quilt batting and fabric to match the bedspread and slid it into place. No more cold on our heads while we sleep and it looks like its original to our class c.

We also tuck an insulated drape under the cab mattress to cover the access for privacy and to block the cold from the cab. Easy peasy.

[pnichols]

pianotuna wrote:
If you have an exterior shower that can be a source of huge leakage.

Don ..... huuuuuuuuh? :h

Our exterior shower consists of a shower head, hot and cold knobs, and a water pump switch - all mounted on an inside wall of an outside storage cabinet. Nothing having to do with the exterior shower is open to any outside air flow, assuming the outside cabinet door has an intact seal.