Conflicting info on levelling with stabilizing jacks or not.

[Fastfwd75]

My trailer has 4 levelling jacks; each corner. Plus the tongue jack.

I have read that people use a block of wood under the tires to level side to side. I could do that when I am very off but I don't see myself carrying and adjusting shims of wood until it is level.

So... Can I use the scissor jacks to raise it a little but to make the level perfect? Yesterday I used the back right corner with my ratchet to raise it maybe 1/2-1" and the 3 other corners just with the drill until contact with the block of wood.

[TXiceman]

Carry 2 pieces of 2" x? (width of tires) and 2 pieces of 1" to adjust side to side. The large plastic legos only work on firm ground. Soft ground ...you will crack the blocks. Also carry 4 pieces of 3/4 exterior plywood to put under the stabilizers when on soft ground. Also carry a 2" x 6" x 12" long to use under the tongue jack.

From the model trailer you have, they are most likely stabilizer and not jacks. Just run them down to where you are nice and snug. You can use them to make very slight about 1/4" adjustments.

Ken

[NanciL]

Never use the stabilizers to level a trailer. You are liable to bend the frame of the trailer.
Get a couple of packages of the orange or yellow plastic blocks and use them as needed.
I also made up four wooden boxes, that I put under my stabilizers.
The more the stabilizers are spread out, the more stable your trailer will be

Jack L

[hmknightnc]

wa8yxm wrote:
The rule I used when I was trailering.

I used wood 2x tire width (Still do) to get to within .75 inches of level (NOTE 2" lumber is 1.5" thick) then I used the jacks for the last little bit.. MOST trailers this should work.

If you want to take a bit of stress off. You could also carry a 1x tire width That gets you to 3/8's of an inch (actually both 3/4 and 3/8 of an inch are close enough to say "Forget it".

X2, OP you are way over thinking this. Relax and have some fun

[bob213]

bid_time wrote:

bob213 wrote:
The less you have to extend the stabilizers the more stable they will be.

Really? How'd you come to that conclusion?

Maybe that could have worded a little better. "a fully extended jack tends to be more wobbly than a less extended jack.":R

[wa8yxm]

The rule I used when I was trailering.

I used wood 2x tire width (Still do) to get to within .75 inches of level (NOTE 2" lumber is 1.5" thick) then I used the jacks for the last little bit.. MOST trailers this should work.

If you want to take a bit of stress off. You could also carry a 1x tire width That gets you to 3/8's of an inch (actually both 3/4 and 3/8 of an inch are close enough to say "Forget it".

[mgirardo]

Fastfwd75 wrote:
From Skyline manual:
"5. Lower stabilizer jacks, placing wood block under foot as necessary, until they make firm con- tact with ground — Do Not Overtighten or try to lift trailer except for small amount needed to level."

I would say that the bold sentence above is what is confusing. Like the OP asked, what is a small amount? For a new RVer, those instructions would be confusing.

I agree with everyone here that the stabilizer jacks should not be used to level the trailer, however the instructions specifically say it is okay to lift the trailer a "small amount needed to level trailer". The sentence should be updated and everything after trailer should be removed.

-Michael

[westend]

Fastfwd75 wrote:
I'll get a set of levelling blocks. I wanted to make sure I don't spend and carry things I don't need. Those are cheap and seem much easier than bringing a collection of wood planks and trying to stack them as a ramp to drive onto.

Thanks

The leveling of the trailer is about how much it is out of level for the width dimension of 8' (or so). You don't have to be that much off of level that a 1 1/2" board under the tires on one side bring it back to level.

[FlatBroke]

"A small amount" means no inches. Not 1 inch, not 1/2 inch, no inches, zero, nada. The idea is simply to make the jack base tight against the ground. If you actually lift the trailer, you will require the frame to flex a bit, which it was not designed to do, and you can bend it, which will cause a host of other problems from leaking roof seams to cracked plumbing drain pipes."

Mine would bounce like a trampoline with "nada". Hardly any pressure at all will raise mine at least 1/2 inch. No bounce, broken frame, leaky roof or cracked plumbing. If they are that fragile I wouldn't even want to hook it up to the truck.

[bid_time]

bob213 wrote:
The less you have to extend the stabilizers the more stable they will be.

Really? How'd you come to that conclusion?

[bob213]

You may still find you need blocks of wood under your stabilizers in some camp spots. The less you have to extend the stabilizers the more stable they will be.

[ependydad]

I agree with the above. There is no conflicting information- they are stabilizers only.

Wood or Lynx blocks both work fine. It's really not as difficult as it sounds.

http://www.learntorv.com/2013/04/rv-leveling-is-really-quick-and-easy.html

Another option are the Andersen Levelers.

[downtheroad]

Look up the specs on your scissor jacks. Some are rated at a certified 6500 lb load capacity. Some have feet that stabilize only and carry no load. I use all four of my scissor jacks to level a inch or two without any problems.

It's not the stabilizers and their capacity that is the problem...it's the frame. Cranking them down good and tight is OK, but Lifting and using them to fully level is not a good idea.

[Fastfwd75]

I'll get a set of levelling blocks. I wanted to make sure I don't spend and carry things I don't need. Those are cheap and seem much easier than bringing a collection of wood planks and trying to stack them as a ramp to drive onto.

Thanks

[sharker6]

Look up the specs on your scissor jacks. Some are rated at a certified 6500 lb load capacity. Some have feet that stabilize only and carry no load. I use all four of my scissor jacks to level a inch or two without any problems. They won't bend or rack your trailer because they're connected to the frame, even better than the load points of the axles. Going down the road at 65 mph puts move stress on the frame that the jacks.