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Fridge not staying lit when traveling

starcraft69
Explorer
Explorer
I am having a problem with fridge not staying lit when traveling. Works fine on gas when parked. This just started to happen it would happen from time to time over the last two years but now seems to be every time. I was thinking of tape over the cover to limit air blowing it out. How much and were on the cover. It seems so encased i dont see how it blows out. Any help with this appreciated. Here are a few pics to help troubleshoot.







2007 chevy 2500 HD 6.0 longbed
2015 Eagle HT 28.5 5th wheel
tucker the fishing dog
16 REPLIES 16

lap527
Explorer
Explorer
Once again folks here helping others! Yay for that!
2006 Dodge 3500 dually 4X4 / 2013 Livin Lite 10.0 TC /Torklift talons, fastguns, stableloads, superhitch, and truss/ towing a
14'V Nose Trailer when needed.

GoPackGo
Explorer
Explorer
starcraft69 wrote:
starcraft69 wrote:
GoPackGo wrote:
I had the same problem.

Is your fridge in the slideout ???

If so, then you might have the same situation that I had. The flexible gas line located under the slide got kinked when the slide was 'in', which stopped the flow of gas. The solution was to use some plastic ties to keep the line in place and prevent it from kinking. Once we did that, my fridge worked just dandy.


I will check this in the morning. This just may be it. The burner tube was clean no rust or build up. I will update if I find kink.



Update:::::

This is what it was the hose would kink tight and cut off gas supply. I used some zip ties to help realign the hoses as they coil up. Thank you so much GoPackGo !!!!


Super !

Glad it was something that was easy to correct.

slickest1
Explorer
Explorer
I had the same problem and had a tech look at it. He put a new thermocoupler in and cleaned things up and it stays lit while driving now even in heavy wind.
1998 Holiday Rambler Imperial 40 ft.
Dennis and Marcie and Pup the Jack Russell

starcraft69
Explorer
Explorer
starcraft69 wrote:
GoPackGo wrote:
I had the same problem.

Is your fridge in the slideout ???

If so, then you might have the same situation that I had. The flexible gas line located under the slide got kinked when the slide was 'in', which stopped the flow of gas. The solution was to use some plastic ties to keep the line in place and prevent it from kinking. Once we did that, my fridge worked just dandy.


I will check this in the morning. This just may be it. The burner tube was clean no rust or build up. I will update if I find kink.



Update:::::

This is what it was the hose would kink tight and cut off gas supply. I used some zip ties to help realign the hoses as they coil up. Thank you so much GoPackGo !!!!
2007 chevy 2500 HD 6.0 longbed
2015 Eagle HT 28.5 5th wheel
tucker the fishing dog

starcraft69
Explorer
Explorer
GoPackGo wrote:
I had the same problem.

Is your fridge in the slideout ???

If so, then you might have the same situation that I had. The flexible gas line located under the slide got kinked when the slide was 'in', which stopped the flow of gas. The solution was to use some plastic ties to keep the line in place and prevent it from kinking. Once we did that, my fridge worked just dandy.


I will check this in the morning. This just may be it. The burner tube was clean no rust or build up. I will update if I find kink.
2007 chevy 2500 HD 6.0 longbed
2015 Eagle HT 28.5 5th wheel
tucker the fishing dog

GoPackGo
Explorer
Explorer
I had the same problem.

Is your fridge in the slideout ???

If so, then you might have the same situation that I had. The flexible gas line located under the slide got kinked when the slide was 'in', which stopped the flow of gas. The solution was to use some plastic ties to keep the line in place and prevent it from kinking. Once we did that, my fridge worked just dandy.

j_p_f_
Explorer
Explorer
it looks super clean in there, check and see if while cleaning you didn't knock the flame sensor a little out of normal range making it overly sensitive.

Hooterville
Explorer
Explorer
I have the same Norcold fridge and was having the same issue. Not staying lite will traveling and recently randomly failing to relight while parked.

I removed the nozzle and soaked in carb cleaner and used compressed air to clean out. Reassembled and flame looked better than before but still had random ignition issues. Disassembled again and an inspection of the ignitor revealed a hairline crack on the porcelain.

Replaced the ignitor and reassembled burner assembly. Success

A simple replacement and cost of new ignitor was less than $20.

DryCreek
Explorer
Explorer
And, this brings up an interesting question:

Is it safe to use your refrigerator on propane while traveling? To be honest, I've never given it a second thought. If the RVIA thought that it was unsafe to operate it on propane while en route, I'm sure there would be warnings, cautions and interlocks to prevent it. I was just wondering because I saw a YouTube video the other day where some "Mr. Professional Firefighter Dude and RV guy" thought it was the most dangerous thing in the world to do. He went on whining about how you would be putting firefighters lives in danger, etc. What a crock. As a trained member of an industrial fire brigade unit at a power plant, we train on LPG fires (BLEVE's) since there are so many propane powered devices in use these days. Even the comments were humorous - blasting those of us carelessly endangering the lives of all those unknowing folks out there on the highways of our fine country.

Oops, I guess I let my position on the subject kinda' slip out. And yes, I do turn it off before hitting the fuel islands at the Flying J/Pilot and other gasoline dispensing sites.

Hank_MI
Explorer
Explorer
sayoung wrote:
Clean the burner.


Had the same problem on previous MH. Worked fine when parked, gas check light would come on when traveling. Cleaned all the rust out of the burner assembly and no more problems.

Ivylog
Explorer III
Explorer III
Warming up while traveling can be hot air going up the white drain line, not the burner going out. It should have a check valve/plug in the end. You could also fill the black pan half full of water so air cannot get in on your next trip and see what happens.
This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
Sold 04 Dynasty to our son after 14 great years.
Upgraded with a 08 HR Navigator 45โ€™...

Crabbypatty
Explorer
Explorer
They make a "kit" which is a piece of sheet metal that protects the flame. Look up your fridge and search for it. I had to install that on my Fleetwood. The Sunnybrook doesnt seem to have that issue.
John, Lisa & Tara:B:C:)
2015 F250 4x4 6.2L 6 spd 3.73s, CC Short Bed, Pullrite Slide 2700, 648 Wts Solar, 4 T-125s, 2000 Watt Xantrax Inverter, Trimetric 2030 Meter, LED Lights, Hawkings Smart Repeater, Wilson Extreme Cellular Repeater, Beer, Ribs, Smoker

rockhillmanor
Explorer
Explorer
Sure its not staying lit? Or you might have a low house battery.

These fridge's thermostats use DC. The fridge will start up just fine, but when it shuts off when it reaches its temp it will not start back up again if you have a low battery situation.

We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.

lap527
Explorer
Explorer
I don't know what kind of fridge you have but if it's a dometic you can get a free baffle kit. We got a kit a couple of years ago. If I remember I think our rv dealer had to order it but it was free and it came with baffles and a burner shield.
2006 Dodge 3500 dually 4X4 / 2013 Livin Lite 10.0 TC /Torklift talons, fastguns, stableloads, superhitch, and truss/ towing a
14'V Nose Trailer when needed.