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Surge power protector- hard wire or portable?

cougar28
Explorer
Explorer
I have room behind a panel to put the hard wire version. But what if for some reason it goes south? Now your going to have to wire around to restore power.Make it plug and play by putting plugs on each side? If I do that why not just use a portable unit and install behind the panel?
Or just use the portable unit plugging into the power pedestal? Taking the chance of someone walking off with it-water intrusion and just having to deal with every time you set up and leave. What's you thoughts? I'm sure there's more + and - to each one.
2002 F-250 SD CC 7.3PSD Auto. XLT Short Bed 4X4 Off-Rd.Pkg.Highland Green,Westin Sportsman Grille Guard (Black) RBW Li'l Rocker Slider ,Prodigy Control Towing Jayco Eagle HT 30.5 MLOK,Handy 5er tailgate
38 REPLIES 38

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
camperdave wrote:
What is the downside to the park of people using autoformers?
With lower voltage some appliances draw less amps and some draw more. So there may not be much difference.

Maybe overall a small loss due to the transformer consumption but they are very efficient.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

suprz
Explorer
Explorer
After 14 years of RVing, I finally had an experience where the 30 amp outlet I was using just stopped working... I went to the front desk of the park and they sent the maintenance guy right out. After some investigation the wires had actually melted the plug and disconnected... I used a 50 to 30amp dog bone for the rest of the stay. That winter, I ordered the Progressive industries hardwired unit. It does make a humming sound but luckily it's in the outside bay so I don't hear it.. But I feel better knowing it's there. Just like any other kind of insurance...
Proud father of a US Marine

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
time2roll wrote:
camperdave wrote:
What is the downside to the park of people using autoformers?
Other people complaining.


X2
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
camperdave wrote:
What is the downside to the park of people using autoformers?
Other people complaining.

camperdave
Explorer
Explorer
What is the downside to the park of people using autoformers?
2004 Fleetwood Tioga 29v

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
fj12ryder wrote:
Just FWIW, I've been to two campgrounds/RV parks that prohibited autoformers. I have no idea how they'd tell, just passing along what I've seen.


I guess there are still some Neanderthals that have no clue how they work. Just like an EMS, autoformers can be portable or hard wired, only the portable units would alarm the unknowing. I keep mine under a plastic waste basket.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
My EMS is hardwired as that suits me best. Taking your own path is fine too.
My voltage booster gets the plug and play treatment for use hidden in the RV. Used only when necessary.

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
Just FWIW, I've been to two campgrounds/RV parks that prohibited autoformers. I have no idea how they'd tell, just passing along what I've seen.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
I believe autoformers with surge protection, polarity check, and open neutral coverage are a better choice. They correct low voltage instead of leaving you without power.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
The inside monitor for the PI unit is a advantage especially in CGs with low voltage during heavy loads like A/Cs running in hot weather. And the prior error code lets you know what happened while you were away.

My 2004 HW50C is in the second RV and no wires were cut to install so easy to remove. It's installed next to the ATS.

There is also a switch on the monitor to turn the unit off. No noise from mine except when it applies power and the relays click.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
For all the reasons the OP pointed out is exactly why we went with a portable unit, but changed the camper umbilical cord so the protector would plug in under a cabinet. This was on my previous travel trailer.

The umbilical cord was stored under the cabinet on the right side of the photo, bottom.





I removed the bottom panel, put hinges on it and an easy open handle:



I cut the original umbilical cord and attached a male end plug on it. This is the original cord that could easily be plugged back in at any time.




This is what it looked like from the outside of the camper. The extension cord is plugged into the power protector, but from the outside of the camper, you can't even tell anything is behind that wall.



Here's the inside of the cabinet with the protector:



Well, that Surguard protector eventually died and was replaced with a Hughes Autoformer 30 amp. And 2 weeks after I bought the new 30 amp Autoformer, we sold the TT for a 50 amp Fifth Wheel. I kept the 30 amp Hughes and also purchased a 50 amp Progressive.

What was really GREAT was the fact, all I had to do was unplug the power protector and plug back in the original cord. I shoved the end back through that hole, and with electrical tape, taped both ends together inside that cabinet. I also told the buyer (dealership) what I did, and if they wanted, they could always hard wire the original back into the junction box. Or keep it as a selling feature for the next buyer. The point is, it took absolutely NOTHING to remove it, unlike one that is hard wired in. It was the best of both, portable and hard wired.

The only drawback was fact the read-out could not be seen. But!!! the Hughes Autoformer had BlueTooth technology and sent the signal to my phone, which I could monitor there. It truly was a great compromise for the hard wired version.

Because there is no where on my current 5er to access the power entry point without major demolition, we decided to stick with the portable unit. We've used both the 30 amp and the 50 amp protectors at campgrounds and at home. This is also something to think about that might not work so well with a hard wired version?



I do keep a bicycle lock on the Progressive 50 amp, as it has a place for a lock to go through it.

Personally, I like your idea of the portable inside the camper. It worked well for me when I had a 30 amp travel trailer and only 1 protector to consider.

Wiscampsin
Explorer
Explorer
Went with the hard wired PI EMS for reasons stated by other posters. Took me about 10 minutes to install the main unit and another 5 to run wire and mount display unit.

Desert_Captain
Explorer III
Explorer III
I startred out with a simple plug in Progressive Industries Surge Guard unit and upgradced a couple of years later to thir EMS. I keep the original as a spare and have loaned it out a numberof times. About 75 percent of pedestals have a hole at the bottom of the door that will accept a small shanked padlock and secures the door.

I use a combination lock, one less key to keep track of, and this setup has served me well for years. As others here have mentioned the EMS has saved us from damage on numerous occasions all across the US. I will never plug in anywhere with out the EMS on line first.

:C

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
WNYBob wrote:
If you are a DIYer check out the warranty requirements for the hard wired version I believe there state you need to have it installed by a tech.

P.S. I have a portable one that I chain to the power post, wouldn't be without it!



This is old and not true,it has been discussed here many times and I have called the company about it and here is the Warranty.

Limited Lifetime Warranty
Our Lifetime Warranty covers only
Progressive Industries workmanship, internal electronics and
parts & materials contained within the unit housing. Any and all damage to the outside of the unit is not covered.
External damage is typically associated with a poor connection between your RV or our EMS/SSP units and a power cord. The Lifetime Warranty
does not cover labor or shipping charges.

Our Lifetime Warranty is exclusive to Progressive Industries and is granted in lieu of all other express or implied
warranties, obligations or liabilities.
This is a non-transferable Lifetime Warranty.It applies only to the original owner and covers only those
products purchased from an authorized dealer, retailer, or seller.
This warranty covers manufacturer
defects in materials and workmanship.
A proof of purchase is required for all warranty claims.
The follow are excluded and not covered by the Lifetime
Warranty and/or void the Lifetime
Warranty.
Improper installation of a hard wired unit
We strongly recommend that a competent electrical
professional perform the installation of hard wired units.

Products installed or used in an application other than an RV

Products operated outside systems compatible and compliant with RV surge protectors.
Products used in a manner inconsistent with the operating instructions
Use of replacement parts or accessories that are non-compliant with Progressive Industries specifications

I installed mine as instructed in the Company Video and the tech I talked to said that it would be covered,I have had no problems except the failure of the remote unit,which they agreed that there were problems with the older units. They sent me a free replacement overnight.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
We have the portable and it's plugged into the end of the power cable. So it gets plugged into the power pedestal instead of the end of the power cord. No added steps necessary. As far as theft, I've never heard of anyone having one stolen. Having to wire around a permanent mount could be an issue if it fails, while the portable could just be bypassed, after addressing the problem of why it failed.

If you buy an old SugeGuard then water intrusion is definitely an issue, but I believe even the SurgeGuard is now better built. But I still wouldn't buy one.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"