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Thoughts on circulating warm air in the RV?

Mike_LeClair
Explorer
Explorer
Hi Folks!

I am curious to read what your various thoughts and theories are on the good, better, best ways to circulate the warm air output from the furnace and supplementary heaters that you use in the RV. We are wintering in Osoyoos, BC and are heating our RV with the furnace and built in fireplace. The RV has a ceiling fan in the living and galley area that I currently have running on slow speed and rotating in a clockwise direction to pull air up to the ceiling. My theory is that the warm air produced by the furnace and fireplace would be pulled up to the ceiling and then follow the ceiling to the outer walls and down to the floor and back up again (at least in theory). The downside is that I feel a chill from a slight air current that I presume is being caused by the running fan. Are there other things that I could or should try to maximize the heat energy from the furnace and fireplace?

Cheers!

Mike
Something Old, Something New
2012 F350 SRW, 6.7l Powerstroke, 3.55's front and rear.
2008 Fleetwood Regal 325RKTS
Mike, Carol and our 4 legged "furry child" Kenzie Shweenie Tod
15 REPLIES 15

justaboutretire
Explorer
Explorer
When I am on shore power we run an electric heater to warm up the trailer, when it is warm I turn on the fan only on the a/c system an it circulates the hot air in the ceiling through the trailer. With the electric heater running and the a/c fan (on low) running it keeps the trailer at 71 degrees. Outside temp is in the mid thirties. Have to keep an eye on the windows for condensation and dry them once in awhile also.

Bill
Bill & Diane
3 Boys, 1 dog
1DIL, 3 Granddaughters
2002 Excursion Limited\w 7.3 PSD
2003 Citation 33M TT

RCMAN46
Explorer
Explorer
I do not have a ceiling fan.

When It is very cold and I want to equalize temperatures in my trailer I run the air conditioner on low fan without the compressor.

If there is too much air flow in a certain area I just close or adjust the vent in that area.

allen8106
Explorer
Explorer
3oaks wrote:
Warm air rises by natural convection. I would think you would want the fan pushing the warm air down rather than pulling it up. The reason you feel a chill is that the air flow across your body tends to evaporate moisture from your skin, making you feel cooler.


For winter time you want the fan pulling the air up.
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westend
Explorer
Explorer
2gypsies wrote:
Have you thought of using a propane heater? They create a constant warmth and are very economical. We used one for 16 winters.
Yes, the Big Buddy or the catalytic heaters work well for heating small spaces. Since they are burning inside an RV, open windows or vents are necessary for fume removal and oxygen replenishment.

I have a vented propane heater in my 22' trailer. This replaced the typical RV furnace. The Sportsman heater I have is 20K BTU and when the trailer is up to temp, we turn it down to idle or just the pilot. Depending on outside temps and door openings, it sips propane. It doesn't have the typical furnace fan so doesn't draw down batteries. I have used a small computer fan near it to move heat further into the cabin.

I have 2" pipe to the heater for combustion air and for stack air. There's little sense to be exhausting or burning the cabin air since the make-up air will come from outside through any openings, principally through the door seals.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

2gypsies1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Have you thought of using a propane heater? They create a constant warmth and are very economical. We used one for 16 winters.
Full-Timed for 16 Years
.... Back in S&B Again
Traveled 8 yr in a 40' 2004 Newmar Dutch Star Motorhome
& 8 yr in a 33' Travel Supreme 5th Wheel

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Blowing air across surfaces that are in the conductive heat transfer part of heating an enclosed space will tend to increase the transfer rate. You can prove this by sitting in the center of a room where active heating is taking place. Now move to an exterior wall and either place hand on wall or stay in that area. You should notice temperature differences.

There are a few things working against you in an RV: the limited amount of wall and ceiling cavity space able to be insulated, the typical RV construction of not having a thermal break between interior paneling, wall framing, and exterior surface, the lack of insulated glass, and the inefficiency of typical RV furnaces and ducting. Anything you can do to raise efficiency of these is a definite winner. Some of these are nearly impossible or unlikely to be improved but there are a few practical things that can be done. Covering expanses of glass with an insulating material can prove very effective. Extruded foam board inserts placed in window openings at night is a good choice. Making sure that all ducting from the furnace is operational and not laying against a cold exterior surface is a good thing. Placing a fan behind any heating appliance to increase warm air flow and heat transfer from the appliance works well.

Possibly the best improvement in heating an RV through Winter is skirting the RV so that trapped air underneath is higher than ambient. You could even add heat lamps underneath to increase that trapped air temperature. Be careful of growing weeds and flora underneath as Winter progresses. I've camped in sub-zero f environments and skirting increases the comfort drastically.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Reverse circulation with ceiling fan does move warm air at ceiling down BUT even on low speed that ceiling fan may move more air then is actually warm.

Try using A/C Fan on low speed.
It will suck warm ceiling air into return and then blow it out thru the ceiling ducts
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wildtoad
Explorer II
Explorer II
Every fan maker will tell you to do as the op does. Blow down in summer which simply creates a breeze across your skin but does blow warm air down. In the winter you still want to move the air but do not want the breeze. The chill may well be from the air being blown across cold windows.
Tom Wilds
Blythewood, SC
2016 Newmar Baystar Sport 3004
2015 Jeep Wrangler 2dr HT

We_Cant_Wait
Explorer
Explorer
Winter time fans PULL the air up so as to not create a breeze while circulating the air. Summer time you want the fans blowing the air down to create a breeze.

Fizz
Explorer
Explorer
From years of experience at the cottage during cool weather we keep the fan on low pulling air up and forcing it down along the walls.
A faster speed creates a breeze, not necessarily a warm one. All you need is a constant flow.

Son_of_Norway
Explorer
Explorer
We keep our back bedroom warm by heating the compartment under the bed with a small electric heater. The heat then radiates from the bed. It not only keeps the bedroom warm, it also warms the water tank, pump and plumbing.
Miles and Darcey
1989 Holiday Rambler Crown Imperial
Denver, CO

stickdog
Explorer
Explorer
If on shore power our ceiling fan runs 24-7 on low and has for the last 6 1/2 years. I keep it blowing down year round we're not talking of a large space and the air movement of both furnace or AC are enhanced by it. We also use 2 1500 watt ceramic heaters if on 50 amp service in the winter along with the heat pump till temps call for the furnace and tank protection.
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3oaks
Explorer
Explorer
Warm air rises by natural convection. I would think you would want the fan pushing the warm air down rather than pulling it up. The reason you feel a chill is that the air flow across your body tends to evaporate moisture from your skin, making you feel cooler.

korbe
Explorer
Explorer
We use our ceiling fan at home to help bring the warm air that is up along the high ceiling down to where we are. I may not use that theory when the ceiling is already pretty low in our 5er. Maybe just turn the ceiling fan on for a minute or two and then turn off.
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