Towing question before purchase

[mileyjean]

Here's another towing question that needs answered before the big purchase!!!

We have a 2010 Ford 150 super crew 4x2 with towing pkg
5.4L3-V8
Axle ratio 3.55
GCWR 15,300
Max loaded trailer weight 9800

We are wanting to purchase 2015 Cherokee 274 RK
Length 33'7"
Hitch weight 810
Dry weight 6892
Gross weight 9985
Cargo weight 3093

All numbers above for the trailer are stated on dealers web page and just a little confused what the difference Between all these numbers are.

It will be just my husband and myself with our 2 dogs traveling in our truck and will not be hauling a lot of excessive stuff. We also will not be traveling far distances with it. The most would be within a 50 mile radius and on occasion maybe once or twice a year traveling a couple hundred miles away. What's your thoughts? Also my husband travels to work over 60 miles each day so to purchase larger truck would kill him on gas.

[goducks10]

nickthehunter wrote:
So, you can't tow a 7,000 lbs trailer with a F-150. Almost 3,000 lbs under max trailer rating and 900 lbs under max tongue weight - unbelievable.

If you've never towed 7000+lbs with a 2010 F150 5.4, 3.55 then you won't understand.
The 5.4 is a dog motor compared to todays V6/V8's. Couple the 2010 6sp with an underpowered V8 and the tranny needs to make the adjustments. With out the ability to lock out OD the F150 shifts more than a Formula 1 car on race day. No one's saying it can't. Heck I did it for 10,000 miles with the 3.73 gears. The biggest eye opener was when I got to 6200'El and had the pedal to the metal going up some curvy roads on the way to a CG. I had to slow to 30mph for some corners. When the road straightened out I didn't have enough HP/TQ to get the speed up more than 45mph. The 5.4 is just doggy. It's a bullet proof motor no doubt. Just underpowered.

I will add though that Ford did a superb job with the tranny cooling. I used a Scan Gauge in the F150 and even with all the tranny shifting the tranny temps never fluctuated. Only time they went up was on long uphill pulls while running in 3rd or 4th on warm days.

[nickthehunter]

So, you can't tow a 7,000 lbs trailer with a F-150. Almost 3,000 lbs under max trailer rating and 900 lbs under max tongue weight - unbelievable.

By the way, for about $600 you can change that 3.55 to a 3.73 or a 4.10 and tow like no tomorrow.

[MitchF150]

It really depends on what your towing performance expectations are really... Not what the dry specs of the trailer you are looking at...

IMO, when people say their truck is "struggling" to tow the trailer of their choice, it's not that the truck isn't capable of towing the load... It's the fact that the driver does not like the towing performance of that combo for their expectations. Sure, you can have a bad hitch setup and such.. But if the fact is the driver does not like to have the pedal to the floor and seeing the rpms over 4 grand, the truck is "struggling"... 😉

With either combo, if you go up any kind of grade, you will be in the lower gears and pulling higher rpms on the engine.. Thinking around 4000 + rpms depending on the grade.

This can be for a mile or for 10 miles.. It don't matter to the engine, but you sitting there listening to it and seeing it is another.. 😉

That would be a good size load for my 13 MAX TOW F150, but I pack heavy and account for that, so you having a 'regular' tow package F150 will do it and get you 50 miles away it's still gonna be what your towing expectations are going to be..

Ask yourself these questions..

Do you mind putting the pedal to the floor when needed?

Do you mind seeing the rpms over 4000?

Do you mind running on the flat land out of OD and pulling more rpms than you normally run not towing?

Do you mind exceeding one or more of your trucks other drive train ratings, even if you are "under" the infamous "tow rating"?

Bottom line.. The truck will physically tow that trailer and get you there and back if you are conscience of the fact you are at the trucks max limits and respect that fact..

The question only you can answer is what I asked above and can YOU handle it?? 🙂

Good luck!

Mitch

[mileyjean]

Ok I am back at the drawing board again!!!! Here are some new numbers what do you think?

Truck specs
2010 ford 150 super crew 4x2
5.4 L3-valve V8
Axle ratio-3.55
GCWR-15,300
Max payload-1750
GVWR-7100
Max trailer weight-9800

TT
Surveyor -265RLDS
30ft 10in
Dry weight -5900
Cargo weight-3661
Hitch weight - 695

So what do you think with these numbers and I what kind of traveling could I do or not do with these numbers?

[Dog_Trainer]

goducks10 wrote:

mileyjean wrote:
I have thought about this for a couple days now and finally after reading some of these posts have decided to not purchase this trailer. I do not feel 100 percent comfortable with this set up and do not want to have anything on my shoulders if something were to happen to my family or someone else on the road. It's simply not worth it to me period!!!!! Now back to the original question what would be a safe dry weight of a trailer and length that I could feel completely comfortable with being on the road and if we choose to travel through mountainous terrain also. Also it's hard to find a trailer that has living space without bunks that has more living space in. Any suggestions please let me know

Thanx again for all your responses!!!!!!!!

I have 1st hand experience with a 2010 F150 MaxTow 5.4 3.73 4x4 Super Crew towing a 31' 7300lb TT. I did 10,000 miles over 2.5 years. I used an EQ 4 pt sway WDH. I was near RAWR @4000lbs. F150 RAWR is 4050 for Maxtow. Most of the time things were fine. The biggest issue was the irritating 6sp tranny that constantly shifted between 4th, 5th and 6th gears. No way to lockout OD when towing. With the 3.55 gears and almost 8000lbs you'd be in a constant battle to keep in one gear for very long.

Wise decision to go lighter.

The transmission problem can be fixed but it costs about 400.00 Mike at 5 Star will give you a custom Tune to lock out the overdrives when using the tow/haul.
I do agree that a different TT or TV would be the best answer.
My comments have been pointed towards those of us that do not want to give up our F150 and still want that 8,000 lb TT

[goducks10]

mileyjean wrote:
I have thought about this for a couple days now and finally after reading some of these posts have decided to not purchase this trailer. I do not feel 100 percent comfortable with this set up and do not want to have anything on my shoulders if something were to happen to my family or someone else on the road. It's simply not worth it to me period!!!!! Now back to the original question what would be a safe dry weight of a trailer and length that I could feel completely comfortable with being on the road and if we choose to travel through mountainous terrain also. Also it's hard to find a trailer that has living space without bunks that has more living space in. Any suggestions please let me know

Thanx again for all your responses!!!!!!!!

I have 1st hand experience with a 2010 F150 MaxTow 5.4 3.73 4x4 Super Crew towing a 31' 7300lb TT. I did 10,000 miles over 2.5 years. I used an EQ 4 pt sway WDH. I was near RAWR @4000lbs. F150 RAWR is 4050 for Maxtow. Most of the time things were fine. The biggest issue was the irritating 6sp tranny that constantly shifted between 4th, 5th and 6th gears. No way to lockout OD when towing. With the 3.55 gears and almost 8000lbs you'd be in a constant battle to keep in one gear for very long.

Wise decision to go lighter.

[Highway_4x4]

Sometimes I do the "weight police" thing but was going to tell you pack light, drive smart in good weather, and stay away from the Rocky Mtns. But you made a better decision. Stay closer to 28ft bumper to ball if you can and a dry weight of real close or under 6K. That way you can hit the road and travel. You will fit into more CG spots. My TT is 31 ft and I wish it was <30.

[mileyjean]

I have thought about this for a couple days now and finally after reading some of these posts have decided to not purchase this trailer. I do not feel 100 percent comfortable with this set up and do not want to have anything on my shoulders if something were to happen to my family or someone else on the road. It's simply not worth it to me period!!!!! Now back to the original question what would be a safe dry weight of a trailer and length that I could feel completely comfortable with being on the road and if we choose to travel through mountainous terrain also. Also it's hard to find a trailer that has living space without bunks that has more living space in. Any suggestions please let me know

Thanx again for all your responses!!!!!!!!

[BenK]

Ah...they are here...derogatories to invalidate those who speak of which they
do not either believe or want to hear...

There is no policing on these freebie forums and the advice worth that much from
both valid to off the mark...but I will gladly take that moniker...the Weight Police

The only one responsible for the setup is the driver...even if someone else
chose the setup...ask who gets the ticket? The advisors?...nope.

Don't say 'yes you can', nor 'no you can not'...the closest I'll come is to say
I'd tow it, or I'd not tow it...the decision is the drivers

What try to do is to provide the metrics on HOW2 figure it out to make an
intelligent decision or 'risk management decision'...AKA gambling

To any newbie...learn the metrics and then get some miles under your belt...good
miles

To the OP...decide and note this in your decision...lots of folks have thousands,
tens of thousands, to hundreds of thousands of miles under their belt. You do NOT

They might know what to do in an emergency situation...right down to reflexive
where as a newbie will have to 'think about it'

Then in that situation when Mr Murphy crosses your path, no matter how long or
short that path is...do you want safety margin, or to be at the hairy edge of
the ratings to even over the ratings? With whatever safety margin is
left or none left...the ability to manhandle the whole setup...not just
to get it moving as most think is all that matters

OP...your choice, not mine, nor anyone else's...

PS...note that most trailer tires (ST class) are only rated for a
max speed of 65MPH. Some will say they've been doing that for decades
with no problems...lucky them...others will confirm blowouts. Another
risk management decision whether to cruise at 65MPH or higher...that
is the tire manufacturer's rating, which is the recommended by RMA
(rubber manufacturers association or some such agencies)

[Dog_Trainer]

I have the same truck with the max tow pkg. So a little diff gearing 3:73 vs your 3:55. It also increases my payload a bit. I think you are fine with your set up. You will need to stay right on top of your maintenance. Keep oil changes at 3,000 miles.

I did a couple of things to mine. I went to Mike at 5 star tuning and got a performance towing tune in fact 2 tunes for towing 1 for 87 and 1 for 89 octane. Both of them take better advantage of shifting points and they have a 6th gear lockout in the tow/haul mode. I put Timbren ses on what they do is with a that kind of tongue weight they let the Timbrens sit on the axle . I did not do that to increase my payload or towing capacity I did it to provide better side to side stability under load. I also changed my Tires to Michelin MS/LT 10 ply tires. They have a great ride for 10 plys and a 70,000 mile warranty You can air them down to the 40 lb range unloaded and get a decent ride and air them up to 60 when towing. a rougher but stable ride. The 10 ply tires again not to increase payload but to take the side to side squish out when towing.

If you go with your current truck you should search for the best WD hitch that you feel will control the sway. I personally went with the Blue OX sway-pro.

I have invested a couple of thousand into my truck to get that warm/fuzzy. I have also driven and towed in excess of 100,000 miles with different configurations. My last 65,000 in a 35' class A diesel pusher. Many thousands of miles in my Dodge Cummins pulling 7500 lbs of boat. The F150 by far has the least stable feel but is very doable and I am not afraid of it.

You will have to search your feelings to see if this combination might work for you. BTW I do not go over 65mph and most of the time between 57-62. With the diesel Pusher 70 was like standing still and I think at times I was over confident. Do a search on Skip & Char he posts on the forums here he has towed 80,000 miles in 2 different F150's without incident.

Now with all of that said if you want to pony up the big dollars for that 250 or 350 diesel by all means you will have a more capable rig.

Just remember that you can have all of the capabilities but you are saddled to the weakest link which in most cases will be the speed rating on the TT tires or the tow speed limits as set by the states.

[campincandice]

Well now we can both get beaten up, lol! We have a very similar truck, only difference is ours is 4X4. Payload is 1650ish. Our TT is just a little lighter, and we are VERY careful what we pack. It is just us, and sometimes our 2 medium labs.

We do just fine. We've been thru hilly terrain, although not the Rockies. At no time have we white-knuckled it, or wished for more power. We're able to maintain desired speed at all times. Truthfully, we love our truck and TT combination.

So there you have it...

[Grit_dog]

Here come the weight police again........ Hahaha
For short trips like you're planning you will be fine. As stated the truck will be tapped for hp. If youre not experienced towing its a lot of trailer for a 150.
If it's just the 2 of you and short trips why not get a smaller TT?

[ScottG]

That's going to be very heavy for your truck and you aren't going to like the experience. How much you load it will make no noticeable difference.
It's going to be bad either way.

[BenK]

Welcome to the forum !

Comments embedded in the quote below and a diagram showing how the
ratings system works. On that, first decide if you believe in the
ratings system or not. If not, then do whatever, but know that you
have taken the OEM off the warranty and liability hook

If yes, then read up and learn how the rating system works

Best to actually weigh your TV axle by axle fully loaded ready to
go camping. Including people, pets, ice chest, etc, etc, etc

Once you have that number, do the simple math using the diagram below
and that will tell you how much trailer weight your TV is actually
rated to tow

Agree with the others...you will NOT like this setup...I'd not tow
that trailer with a half ton...on that, which half ton do you have?
Check the door label and post back it's GVWR...along with your actual weight

Ben

mileyjean wrote:
Here's another towing question that needs answered before the big purchase!!!

We have a 2010 Ford 150 super crew 4x2 with towing pkg
5.4L3-V8
Axle ratio 3.55
GCWR 15,300


Max loaded trailer weight 9800

Forget this OEM number. It is based on a 'curb', or 'stripper' model
and only applies if you own a stripper model (no options)

This is a marketing number for bragging rights to 'King of the Hill'

We are wanting to purchase 2015 Cherokee 274 RK
Length 33'7"
Hitch weight 810


Dry weight 6892

Ditto...this is the 'curb' weight. Some are close to actual, but most
are also stripper models

Useful for calculating the tongue/PIN weight, as is indicative of
the tongue percentage weight

Gross weight 9985

Is this the GVWR?...most likely as the 'dry' weight 6,892 plus
cargo 3,093 = 9,985

Cargo weight 3093

All numbers above for the trailer are stated on dealers web page and just a little confused what the difference Between all these numbers are.

It will be just my husband and myself with our 2 dogs traveling in our truck and will not be hauling a lot of excessive stuff. We also will not be traveling far distances with it. The most would be within a 50 mile radius and on occasion maybe once or twice a year traveling a couple hundred miles away. What's your thoughts? Also my husband travels to work over 60 miles each day so to purchase larger truck would kill him on gas.

howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditwo

[brirene]

I'll have to agree with those urging caution. I've towed a similar trailer with that engine and, although it did just alright on the flats, there was no power to spare. If you ever want to upgrade (you will) or take longer trips (you will), you'll need a bigger truck to tackle hills and mountains. It very well may be capable for what you've described, but just barely.