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%&$# RV Refrigerator

lap527
Explorer
Explorer
Well the so-called testing is done on fridge...I could of sat down and cried! I am sooo disappointed and just couldn't bring myself to post late yesterday. The changing of the regulator helped, our temps on propane is the best it's ever been, 30.5 degrees. We left home about 9AM, fridge was on 30.9. We watched it go up and up. When we got to the folks house at noon or so it was 40.2. DH immediately got out, opened lower vent and the tubes in there were cold to the touch. As the camper sat in their yard it then started going back down. We left at 2:45 and the temp was 35.6. We arrived at the campground at 3:45 and it was back up to 39.0. I am sure if we had traveled any further it would of been in the 50s. We decided to leave it on propane and the fridge recovered quite nicely to the lower 30s and it was quick to rebound even after opening the door several times.

DH thought that the flame might be blowing out. However, from my reading after 3 times I don't think it would re-light again and the fridge needs to be restarted. My thoughts were on the pipes in the back. If they are cold then there is not enough heat to make the blasted thing cold. Now, is there to much air flow from the top side vent forcing the air back towards the bottom? Another forum member has same problems but he has a roof vent and we have the 2 side vents. Still yet another forum member has a unit just like ours and no problems at all. We also have the dometic baffle kit to protect the flame. We have even thought about adding some of type of loose woven insulation to the vents to slow down the air flow. The thing works great as long as you don't move the unit so we know it's not the fridge itself. After all the RVs we have owned this is the first time we have had a problem with the fridge. DH just wants to always take a cooler with us, which we do but that doesn't fix the problem. We didn't buy this thing to carry a cooler and ice with us. GRRRR....
2006 Dodge 3500 dually 4X4 / 2013 Livin Lite 10.0 TC /Torklift talons, fastguns, stableloads, superhitch, and truss/ towing a
14'V Nose Trailer when needed.
30 REPLIES 30

campn4walleye
Explorer
Explorer
go to tech issues forum and look at my "fridge issues" thread. I had so many helpful folks assist. Their are even pictures that you may find helpful.

We had the thermofuse keep blowing. I felt like you do.

I think we've gotten the problem fixed(knock on wood).

Ask this question on the tech issues forum and you might get more input. The moderator moved mine there and I was glad he did. Much more help.
2011 Adventurer 910FBS truck camper,Torklift tie downs,Fastguns & Wobbl-stopprs
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW 6.7L CTD,4x4,LB,CC,auto,3.73 axle,General 17" on/off rd
2008 Lund 1825 Explorer Sport,115 Merc,9.9 kicker,Torklift Super Hitch,42" Supertruss
USAF ret E-9&E-7

stevenal
Nomad II
Nomad II
I keep hearing about flames blowing out on these refrigerators. When the fridge is working, try blowing it out. Auto-ignition simply re-lights it. Now turn off the gas and listen while it clicks away attempting to re-light. Long time before it gives up, right? Conclusion1: It would take a very long sustained gust to blow the flame out so that it stays out. Conclusion2: It's probably not the wind that's the problem. When I struggled with similar problems, I eventually picked out the proper Dinosaur replacement board and have had no problem since. http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/
'18 Bigfoot 1500 Torklifts and Fastguns
'17 F350 Powerstroke Supercab SRW LB 4X4

delosholly
Explorer
Explorer
Hello,

We seem to have the same TC as you, a Camplite 10.0 2013. In the first post of this thread you mention a "top side vent" for your fridge. I am not sure we have a top side vent on our 2013 TC, we might have one side vent and one roof vent for the fridge. I will have to check that when I get home from work.

Anyways, we also have had the temps go way up inside the fridge when traveling, but that was when we drove 8-11 hours per day, and they went into the low 50's. It was summer and a lot of direct sun on the camper, so we thought nothing of it.

I am afraid I have not paid that much attention to the temps on all of the shorter trips we take. Perhaps I will after reading your postings. I do know that trying to use the DC setting is useless, our temps went way up as if nothing was on, so we never use that setting any more.

As with yours, ours works great when in camp, AC or gas, no problem.

Best of luck to you and I will keep reading your posts to see if there is anything I need to do to our fridge.

Take care,
Del
Delos & Holly
2013 Camplite Truck Camper 10.0
2014 Ram 2500 Reg SRW LB
2012 Burgman 650

lap527
Explorer
Explorer
No codes on refrigerator, if you traveled long enough you will have milk instead of ice cream, stop and the temperature drops like a rock. We pulled lower vent off and water gushed out of the tube as we were checking the back of fridge. So it was quite warm. Also the HE you spoke of is a SHE and when you buy a new camper of some sort you want all the parts to work. I have a life to live which includes camping with a refrigerator that keeps our food edible and our beer cold. Have a good day...
2006 Dodge 3500 dually 4X4 / 2013 Livin Lite 10.0 TC /Torklift talons, fastguns, stableloads, superhitch, and truss/ towing a
14'V Nose Trailer when needed.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
This poster has a lot to learn about propane fridges.
One day he'll have a real problem, and then have something to complain about.
First you deep six all your dam thermometers,
Then you keep an eye on the fridge panel a couple times a day, especially when your wheels stop turning. Anytime it goes into failure mode, you relite it.
And if the milk is cold, and the icecreme is not melted, it is working normally.

My fridge does not like to stay lit when the sun is on the outside door, (or when a big truck goes by) Its been that way since new. It apparently can't be fixed. But it ain't broke, I just have to relite it once in a while, big deal.
If ya think your fridge is always gonna work like you think it should, knock yourself out !! Me,....I got a life to live !
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

BillL1356
Explorer
Explorer
Ok I adjusted the flame sensor to move it into the flame I thought it was some sort of thermocouple. In any event, the position of the flame sensor before I adjusted its position kept the fridge from consistently running on propane. Since I adjusted it I have had no problems with the refrigerator on gas.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Dometic Fridge Spark Electrode........ceramic insulator with electrode positioned over center of burner slots so flame engulfs tip. Spark gap 1/8" - 3/16"

Main flame lights off and thru 'flame ionization' a milivolt signal is generated which goes back to circuit board 'proving' flame lit. Circuit board then holds DC voltage on gas valve keeping it open.....until thermostat is satisfied.

(Norcold uses same flame proofing)

Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

ernie1
Explorer
Explorer
The 3 way refrigerator in my rv has always put out low temperatures prior to traveling or sitting in one spot for a long period of time. I've added 2 fans in the condensor area, a fan inside the unit which is blowing against the evaporator all to no avail. I'm pretty sure that the problem has to do with a heat soak issue because the refrigerator is mounted about one inch above the floor and that floor area has the muffler underneath it. I've recorded a bit over 100 degrees Fahrenheit in this floor area from inside the coach. There's nothing I can do to try to insulate the floor either above or blow it because there's simply not enough clearance. So I'm just living with it.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Moved from the TC Forum.

Wayne
Moderator


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Newer systems including refers, use a flame sensor. It is in many the same as the ignitor, but still must be directly in a good flame.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

djg
Explorer
Explorer
BillL1356 wrote

I had trouble with my refrigerator going out on propane. it would light and sometimes stay lit and other times go out. What I found is that the thermocouple to prove that flame is on our hot enough (not sure which) was not close enough to the flame



Do the new fridges have a thermal coupler with the circuit boards? I don't think they do Bill I don't remember seeing one on my new fridge, I have the same problem as lap527
2015 Livnlite Camplite TC10
1995 Ford F-350 dually 7.3 Diesel

BillL1356
Explorer
Explorer
I had trouble with my refrigerator going out on propane. it would light and sometimes stay lit and other times go out. What I found is that the thermocouple to prove that flame is on our hot enough (not sure which) was not close enough to the flame. You have to take the baffle off to see it. I had DW turn the fridge on while I adjusted the position of the thermocouple. Problem solved. The fridge has not kick-off since I adjusted it position. It was probably screwed up from day 1.

Bill

mike-uswest
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am tickled pink if I can stay under 45.

Mike
2019 Ram 2500 TCD, 4X4,
Arctic Fox 25Y 30'

lap527
Explorer
Explorer
poncho62 wrote:
I put a couple of 4 inch computer fans (12 volt) blowing out of the top vent. That makes air go in the bottom vent, over the coils and out the top. It helped a ton with mine

What made you put the fans in? We only have 1 so maybe an additional fan might do the trick.
2006 Dodge 3500 dually 4X4 / 2013 Livin Lite 10.0 TC /Torklift talons, fastguns, stableloads, superhitch, and truss/ towing a
14'V Nose Trailer when needed.