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Small Engine Storage

nomad297
Explorer
Explorer
During winter, what is the best way to store small engine equipment such as a generator?

Is it best to have the the tank, lines and carburetor completely dry or should there be treated fuel left in it?

Right now, every piece of equipment I own is completely devoid of fuel.

Bruce
2010 Skyline Nomad 297 Bunk House, 33-1/4 feet long
2015 Silverado 3500HD LTZ 4x4, 6.0 liter long bed with 4.10 rear, 3885# payload
Reese Straight-Line 1200# WD with built-in sway control
DirecTV -- SWM Slimline dish on tripod, DVR and two H25 receivers
13 REPLIES 13

rockhillmanor
Explorer
Explorer
Once a carb is varnished it's time to throw it out and replace it.


I've had bad luck with the old Sta-Bil, probably due to ethanol in the gas


Nope it's not the ethanol. I live in a state that ethanol has been around in our gas for 30 years. I have used the old version standby sta-bill for 40 years and all my engines start right up in spring and no varnishing after sitting for long long months of midwest winters.:C

We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.

pasusan
Explorer
Explorer
CJW8 wrote:
I am on my 3rd carburetor in 4-5 years in my Champion 3500/4000 generator due to gunk in the carb. I use stabil or sea foam in every tank. when I removed my last carb, it looked like varnish inside. Champion says they are not worth cleaning or rebuilding and sell them for $28.
Just to be clear... This is what you do now so you won't have to replace the carburetor again? Or you have always done this and had to replace the carburetor anyway?

Susan & Ben [2004 Roadtrek 170]
href="https://sites.google.com/view/pasusan-trips/home" target="_blank">Trip Pics

nomad297
Explorer
Explorer
CJW8 wrote:
I am on my 3rd carburetor in 4-5 years in my Champion 3500/4000 generator due to gunk in the carb. I use stabil or sea foam in every tank. when I removed my last carb, it looked like varnish inside. Champion says they are not worth cleaning or rebuilding and sell them for $28.


$28.00? Man -- that's great. That's probably what they're worth, too. This year I needed a new carb for my professional model Toro lawn mower and I could find it nowhere for less than $327.00. I gave that mower away.

Bruce
2010 Skyline Nomad 297 Bunk House, 33-1/4 feet long
2015 Silverado 3500HD LTZ 4x4, 6.0 liter long bed with 4.10 rear, 3885# payload
Reese Straight-Line 1200# WD with built-in sway control
DirecTV -- SWM Slimline dish on tripod, DVR and two H25 receivers

CJW8
Explorer
Explorer
I am on my 3rd carburetor in 4-5 years in my Champion 3500/4000 generator due to gunk in the carb. I use stabil or sea foam in every tank. when I removed my last carb, it looked like varnish inside. Champion says they are not worth cleaning or rebuilding and sell them for $28.
2003 Forest River Sierra M-37SP Toy Hauler- Traded in
2015 Keystone Raptor 332TS 5th wheel toy Hauler (sold)
2004 Winnebago Vectra. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
nomad297 wrote:
During winter, what is the best way to store small engine equipment such as a generator?

Is it best to have the the tank, lines and carburetor completely dry or should there be treated fuel left in it?

Right now, every piece of equipment I own is completely devoid of fuel.

Bruce


I've done both. I like the dry method, especially if there is a chance the engine might not be used for a long time.

I've had bad luck with the old Sta-Bil, probably due to ethanol in the gas. However, the new Marine or Ethanol versions (might be the same in different packaging) are a LOT better. They seem to work well, so I use those when I feel like it.

It's possible to still get carb problems with either method, in my experience.
Currently RV-less but not done yet.

Empty_Nest__Soo
Explorer
Explorer
I use the Marine (blue) version of Sta-Bil. I heard somewhere that it is superior to the regular (red) Sta-Bil. I believe that is true.

I put it in the gasoline cans each and every time before I pump in the gas. I use this treated gas in all my small engines. I even use this treated gas for mixing with oil for my 2-stroke engines.

A few weeks ago, I pulled out my Champion 3500/4000 watt generator after it had been stored for almost 2 ยฝ years with fuel in the tank (I always shut off the gas and run the carb dry.) I turned on the gas and pulled the starter cord. Somewhat to my surprise, it started on the first pull. (Yes, I know I should be ashamed for not exercising it for so long!)

Probably the most important thing for storing a portable generator is to make sure it is in a dry location where it will not collect condensation.

Wayne
Wayne & Michelle

1997 Safari Sahara 3540

rockhillmanor
Explorer
Explorer
Lived in the Midwest for 40 years and ALL my small engines got Sta-bil put in them for storage over the winter and all started up just fine come summer. And actually I put some in all my trucks when real cold weather was predicted to prevent gas line freeze.

We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us.

doughere
Explorer
Explorer
I pump almost all the gas out (I use only non ethanol gas) and pour into the car/truck. Run the engine dry on what gas is left, then change the oil. Remove spark plug, put a very small amount of oil in the cylinder, and crank over a few times to spread it out. Put in new spark plug. Clean/Replace air filter. I do my neighbor's standby gen, and change her oil filter also. I keep a gas can with non ethanol gas (with stabilizer) around for emergency use, and dump it into the car/truck in the spring if not used.

Doug

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
use stabil just a tad more than recomened and your good, I live where its cold all my motors get run in the fall and start in the spring. a little sea foam also keeps the gunk cleaned out.

riven1950
Explorer
Explorer
I don't know what is " best " but I use Sta bil fuel stabilizer.

As an example, I just sold a 20 year old generator that was owned originally by my parents. I acquired it about 10 years ago after my father passed. It would not crank, had old gas in it. I drained the tank, new plug, new gas and got it cranked. Since then been using sta bil in the gas ( same with my boat and other small engines ) and cranking it 2-3 times a year. When I listed it on CL it had not been cranked in several months. Guy called last weekend made an offer and I accepted. He came over and we pulled it out of the back of my storage bin and it cranked with 6-7 pulls.

I am convinced Sta bil works. I am sure there are other products like Seafoam that will do the same, but I have not used them.

When I buy gas for my small engines I go ahead and put Sta bil in the transport tank. That way I always have " fresh " gas in the storage tank and the engines. Works for me.

Gale_Hawkins
Explorer
Explorer
Most just get shut off in the real world. I like to use something like Seafoam, Archoil AR6200, etc so I do not have to get the gas out.

mguay
Explorer
Explorer
I run Aviation fuel in all my small engines the last round out with them in the fall,(weed wacker, push mower, leaf blower and garden tractor). In my EU 3000IS all I run is AV Gas. It only gets used once or twice a year. I do not add SeaFoam or StaBil to the AV Gas. I have never had a problem with varnish in the carb, and it smells good too!
2007 Volvo VNL 780 D12/Ultra Shift Singled
2017 Smart Fortwo Prime Cabrio
2014 Dynamax Trilogy 3715FB

RJCorazza
Explorer
Explorer
In my years at the fire dept we ran the carbs dry. Now I treat the fuel with StaBil in off season for my numerous small engines and make sure to run it into the carb.